Metal Frames

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Brian K

Grumbler
Joined
Jul 8, 2006
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35
Loc
Selkirk Manitoba
Until recently I was ordering metal frames chopped. I came into a supply of nielsens at a price that couldn't be denied. We already had a chop saw so only equipment required was an 80 tooth carbide blade built for al. Cuts are ok, but I'm fabergasted by the debrie and missiles that come flying out of the saw!!! Particularly on smaller cuts when changing the 45 on a length of molding.....some of these things are impaled in the wall. Yikes!!!

Anyone have a good collection and protection system besides full body armour???
 
Brian K said:
Until recently I was ordering metal frames chopped. I came into a supply of nielsens at a price that couldn't be denied. We already had a chop saw so only equipment required was an 80 tooth carbide blade built for al. Cuts are ok, but I'm fabergasted by the debrie and missiles that come flying out of the saw!!! Particularly on smaller cuts when changing the 45 on a length of molding.....some of these things are impaled in the wall. Yikes!!!

Anyone have a good collection and protection system besides full body armour???
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I have a double mitre blade cutoff saw, but when I started I used a chop saw. If pieces are getting impaled in the wall, you have BIG PROBLEMS!!

I never cut unless I can hold onto BOTH pieces of the moulding. You might have to use a clamp on one side if you are using a chop saw.

If it was me, I wouldn't cut anymore, until you can stop the "debrie and missles" from coming out of the saw. It sounds pretty dangerous.
 
if wall damage is a problem for you(little holes into bigger holes, et al) build a small ply box surrounding the saw--5 pieces, about 15" deep w/small overhang above the saw, it snuggs against the fence/goes around the saw..."MOST" pieces will stay in the box but some just will NOT behave...still find the occassional small piece 3-5ft-ish from the saw to the left of everything. they will seldom bounce backward but they do like to go to the left.(no political over/under tones implied!). I use a 100T blade---make for smoother cutting but , I think, helps the kick-out more than the 80T does(personal prejudice) ...I dis-remember reading on TG about the cause of flying pieces being carbide teeth.... maybe yes, maybe no...your pick
 
If you are trimming less than 1inch, have you tried taking smaller cuts - the width of the blade - off when trimming? I know it takes more time but you don't have to worry about the flying pieces. This is how I do it on my frame square.
 
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