Question Metal frames and Oil Paintings

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k2500guy

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Jan 16, 2008
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North Chesterfield, VA
Do you ever use a metal frame with an oil painting? I've just got a call about replacing a metal frame they have on an oil painting. I don't really like metal frames, especially on oil paintings, but if the customer wants it, is there any reason not to do it? I would think that with some profiles, the top lip of the metal might damage the canvas. Any way to prevent that?
 
The only limiting factors to using metal frames on a canvas are the depth and personal prejudice. As long as the frame is deep enough to accommodate the stretched canvas, a solid backing, glazing if used and spacers there's no reason not to.

Probably the easiest and most straightforward way to prevent the painted surface from contacting the lip would be to use matboard spacers. Cut strips of matboard with a width equal to the thickness of the stretched canvas plus 1/8" and staple to the sides of the stretcher bars. These spacers will hold it back from the frame's lip.

Of course I would be remiss if I didn't mention that this method and others are included in the new PPFA Guidelines for Framing Paintings on Canvas.
 
Would I then assume that I could only use mouldings that have a flat top lip? Many profiles curve around and have a thin edge that contacts the top of the art. It seems it would be impossible to get a matboard spacer strip to go under that lip and not show from the front.
 
That would probably be the easiest route. If it's a metal frame with a rounded lip then 8-ply spacers would sort of fill it in. You'd just have to be very careful with sizing so the the edge of the board doesn't peek out from under the lip.

If you choose a mat color close to that of the frame or the predominant color in the painting it will be very unobtrusive.
 
You need a little more room when measuring too. Not only is there the common problem with squareness, but the edges of a stretched canvas tend to push apart the joins. That has been my experience anyways.

I like the idea of using mat board to keep it away from the lip.
 
Start by asking why they want another metal frame...they might think it's cheaper. But with all the extra labor going into it, that would probably not be the case.

The customers who I inherited from previous shop, all have/had metal frames around their work. The owner promoted metal (didn't cut/join his own moulding) so probably he thought metal was easier.

Although I still sell metal frames (I love the vivids!) a lot of customers have changed to wood frames.

Why do they want to replace the metal with another metal? What's wrong with the one on it now??? There might be other issues going on.
 
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting the corners to stay together in the front of a Nielsen 14-21 float frame? I am super frustrated and trying to get rid of the massive gapping. The back goes together perfect and the front looks like carp!
 
MollyB. said:
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting the corners to stay together in the front of a Nielsen 14-21 float frame? I am super frustrated and trying to get rid of the massive gapping. The back goes together perfect and the front looks like carp!
Click to expand...

I've not used that particular profile but if you are getting a gap at the front you could try bending the L backing plate(s) so as to give
a bit of bias so that it pushes the front face tight. I do this by placing the L front-down on a piece of wood and giving the corner a sharp
tap with a ball-headed hammer. You don't need to go mad, just enough to create a bend. Then when you tighten the screws you should get
a nice tight corner. You may need to practice this a bit. Some hardware is already done like this which is why there is a right side and a wrong
side. Before you reach for the hammer try reversing the hardware and refitting. 🙂
 
MollyB. said:
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to getting the corners to stay together in the front of a Nielsen 14-21 float frame? I am super frustrated and trying to get rid of the massive gapping. The back goes together perfect and the front looks like carp!
Click to expand...
Try flipping the plates. I had a batch of nielsen plates that were all backwards and had to redo the screws in all of them, but it fixed my gapping!

If messing with the plates doesn't fix the issue, you may need to ask for a new chop. Good luck.
 
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