Question metal corner reinforcement

mayos

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Posts
673
Loc
Clay Center, KS.
I have a customer who has an old frame that has come apart and needs to be rejoined. The wood in the frame isn't real good, but the frame has sentimental value. The wood won't hold a v-nail well. Is there any problem with using the "L" shaped metal corner reinforcements to hold the corner?
 
Using mending plates like that work really good. The trick is to use long enough screws to keep the joint tight in the front without the screws going through the front.

If the screws are short, it will still keep the frame from coming apart, but it will gap in the front if the glue fails.
 
If the frame profile is beefy enough you can rejoin in a vise, then while still in the vise drill some holes that go at least triple the length into the receiving leg as is transverse through the other side. These hole are then filled with matching dowels that are prepped with glue. At least one going each way but better if two each way.
The holes and dowels don't have to be huge beef, infact 1/3 the size of a narrow stem is all that is needed. I have even gone so far as to drill 16 gauge holes and insert toothpicks to stitch together some bad wood. Sometimes super glue is even the better glue to use with the toothpick trick. (un colored toothpicks... the colored one, the color comes off and the toothpick can just slip out.)
 
If the frame profile is beefy enough you can rejoin in a vise, then while still in the vise drill some holes that go at least triple the length into the receiving leg as is transverse through the other side...

Say what? Either you're way out of my league or they're growing some good stuff in Oregon.
 
Rejoining old frames can be a pain, especially if they have warped over the years. On a bigger profile, sand down the miters to remove as much of the old glue as possible and flatten any divots where the old nails went in. The good ole Dremel is with a sanding drum is good for this, but avoid the edges. The miters are unlikely to go together perfectly, so there are going to be gaps. A slow-curing epoxy can work well as it will bridge gaps and is not as brittle as the instant sort. Drill a few shallow holes in each side of the mitre for the glue to squeeze into. Apply the epoxy liberally on all the mitre faces, working it into the holes, then put a strap clamp around and cinch it up. Leave overnight. While it is clamped, you can add the L plates to strengthen the joins. Before you fix the plates, place them c/sunk face down on a piece of wood and give them a swift tap on the corner with the ball end of a hammer. This bends them slightly inwards, so that when they are screwed to the frame they are biased towards pulling the faces of the mitre together. Bit like a v-nail. Speaking of v-nails, a lot of old frames, particulally ornate ones are on a carcass of really rough pine and don't take kindly to v-nailing. Also the clamp pressure can crush/loosen the gesso that will have shrunk over the years.
 
Say what? Either you're way out of my league or they're growing some good stuff in Oregon.

If the frame is an inch thick predrill for a 3 inch brad. Use a brad three times the thickness of the frame.

You might also want to cross nail it. Use a nail in both sides of the join. It weakens the corner, but may be needed in this case.

BUT can you chop it down to healthier wood? Then trim the matting to correspond?
 
In wood joinery, glue is almost always the best bet. Mechanical fasteners almost always cause more problems than they fix. That said, I'd use a gap filling glue, probably a two part epoxy, and cross clamp while the glue is setting up. I wouldn't use a quick setting epoxy because it isn't as strong as long setting (you get nothing for free). Unless the wood is actually rotting, highly unlikely, that should work. We have in the past applied Get Rot to a crumbling area and that made the area stable. Gluing the corners with gap filling glue provides way more surface area to the glue than doweling and leaves open an easy repair if the joint fails. If there are big areas of missing wood along the joint that the glue doesn't fill and they are open on the bottom, fill them with a mixture of sawdust and glue, this time use your normal glue. That should do it.
 
Thanks to everyone. I'm constantly amazed at the generosity with information and the level of expertise that's available on the G. You folks are great!
Thanks!
 
Bend the L-Shaped corner braces slightly towards the front of the frame. When you tighten the screws, they will force the face of the frame together. (Same with metal frame hardware if you get gaposis in the front of the frame).
 
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