MDF corners

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Dave@CDF

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I have a customer that is looking to benefit from the savings of using wrapped MDF moulding. I have already produced 60 frames and still am having corner issues where the covering material is separating from the MDF material. I am using a quality miter saw to make the cuts, using my Cutting Edge 101 to sand down the angles and then using a razor to trim off the remaining material. I am then gluing and assembling with a mitre mite.

Is there any trick to using this material? How do I keep the edge surface material from separating from the frame?
 
Sounds like you need a better blade for the saw. Quinn Saw is a sponsor of the Grumble and you can call and talk to Joe or Bill for their recommendation on blades.
 
My saws cut MDF like butter.

1. Is it the right kind of blade? Is your blade made for cutting wood? Don't laugh, some aren't.
2. Do you use a quality sawblade? Quinn and Ultramitre make good blades. I would never use a blade bought from a hardware store.
3. What is the quality of your moulding? Haven't seen much bad stuff lately, but if your MDF moulding is many years old, been exposed to the elements, or otherwise has de-lamination problems, it could simply be the moulding is bad.
 
I was going to ask as well...The quality of the moulding may be the problem, who is it from?

We cut MDF with a saw all of the time with no problems, strictly Framerica product.
 
DTWDSM said:
I was going to ask as well...The quality of the moulding may be the problem, who is it from?

We cut MDF with a saw all of the time with no problems, strictly Framerica product.
Click to expand...

I use MDF from Framerica and Nickell. Both seem about the same quality. My cuts actually don't seem to be as much the problem as the joining. I use a miter mite VN2+1 with glue and shoot two 10MM soft wood v nails. The face joint looks OK but the edge corner is the problem. They just don't look as tight as the wooded frames.

Any suggestion?
 
Can you post a picture of your issue?

What type of glue are you using?

What remaining material is there to cut down? The saw would have cut the angle perfectly. You should not have to trim anything, nor sand the corners on an MDF frame.
 
With Framerica I jack the pressure and use hardwood vnails. Bring the outer nail in more than usual. Make sure you're using an 80-tooth blade, and preferably newly-sharpened.
 
As a general observation I have had most of my grief as a framer stem from trying to help cheapskates who are trying to cut costs by using carpy materials. It always take longer than I think and generally the results are far from the standard I like to work to.
 
Call me crazy--but as far as cheap stuff goes, I LOVE the Framerica Bonanzawood product. To reiterate what others said...Good blades, well sharpened. Hardwood pins in my VN2 vnailer, put the pins a bit more forward if back edge seems to pull apart. Must use Cornerweld glue which was developed for this product....leave them dry 30 minutes or so before fitting.
 
Framerica's Bonanza woods are very easy to work with and are available in a wide variety of profiles and colors. You can't beat the price point when the cliebt is price sensitive yet wants something more then a carpy 3/4" black frame.

Don't try to stack the vnails, that can lead to a poor joined corner.
 
Artrageous said:
Framerica's Bonanza woods are very easy to work with and are available in a wide variety of profiles and colors. You can't beat the price point when the cliebt is price sensitive yet wants something more then a carpy 3/4" black frame.

Don't try to stack the vnails, that can lead to a poor joined corner.
Click to expand...

The stock is 3/4" deep. I I currently am only using 10mm nails. Should I try something longer?
 
tedh said:
With Framerica I jack the pressure and use hardwood vnails. Bring the outer nail in more than usual. Make sure you're using an 80-tooth blade, and preferably newly-sharpened.
Click to expand...

Are 10MM nails long enough? What pressure should I have the nailer set at?
 
Dave@CDF said:
The stock is 3/4" deep. I I currently am only using 10mm nails. Should I try something longer?
Click to expand...

If you mean 3/4 " high, then I vote no. 10mm should be fine, with jacked pressure, good glue, tight clamping, and three hardwood nails.
 
When I was trying to develop this type of moulding back in the early 90's, one this for sure you cannot join the corners with the v nailer too close to the outside edge it must always be a little on the inside otherwise the corner will break out, also use plenty of glue so as to absorb into the MDF, a good quality PVA is also needed. Hope this helps.
 
Others have said this but I will again add....softwood nails are your problem, switch to hardwood.
 
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