Matted prints touch glazing

[JohnR]

I notice when I frame a large print that is hinged, in a few cases, I can see that it bows out and touches the glazing eventhough it is double matted. I know from my framing edu-ma-cation that this is a no-no. I know that I can add spacers, but should not be necessary. The prints need the conservation mounting so I can't drymount. I don't know what to do without adding extra time and $$ to the job.
Thanks, John

 

[Ron Eggers]

John, you DO know what to do.

You can add spacers, another mat or maybe some recessed spacers between the two existing mats.

 

[stud d]

Adding a piece of foamcore between the first and second mat adds a nice touch of depth. It also helps in these circumstances.That is of course if the frame allows for it.

PL

 

[JohnR]

Oh well... I wish I didn't hafta.

That's another thing that irks me. Shallow rabbet depth. I find a nice molding for a job and the rabbet is so shallow that it makes the fit difficult. Seems like a lot of moldings are this way. Of course, they have solutions for that too, but... I wish I didn't hafta.

John

 

[DenKym]

What about changing to mylar corners instead of hinging... might hold it better to the backboard

 

[Baer Charlton]

Originally posted by JohnR:
That's another thing that irks me. Shallow rabbet depth.

I have been pounding that pulpit for 30 years.

This year I finally got Tom (Garrett Moulding) to swear off on moulding anything less than a 5/8" under the rabit.

 

[RoboFramer]

I like spaced double mounts, nice flumb trap!

 

[Jim Miller]

Originally posted by DenKym:
What about changing to mylar corners instead of hinging... might hold it better to the backboard

Nope. Corner mounts force the art paper to stand on its bottom corners. Unless the paper is stiff enough to stand on its own, it slumps and develops wrinkles. Sometimes the wrinkles are horizontal, but often they show up across the bottom corners.

Hinging hangs the paper like a curtain, helping to keep it flat.