materials for antique frame repair

Randall C Colvin

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Feb 23, 2008
Posts
335
Loc
Grab,Ky that's in western Green County ,Greensburg
I have an antique frame with missing compo to repair.
Could someone recommend materials for: making a mold from the pattern that remains on the frame and compound for casting the parts to be applied. Any other advice is more than welcome. Thanks
 
Casting running patterns isn't too bad. Plasticine is quick to make a mould from. Knead it until it's soft and press it onto a section of the pattern. Peel off carefully and bend it back into shape. Put in fridge for a while and it will go quite hard. You can make the actual cast with heavy compo if you want to be a purist, or use car body filler. Depends a lot on how you are going to finish it. Leafing really requires compo.
Some folks have used dentists mould-making stuff - can't remember what it's called. :icon11:
Once you have the cast you need to carefully trim it too fit the missing gap and maintain the pattern repeat.

Corner ornaments are a bit trickier as they were originally flat and steamed into shape so need a lot of whittling to get them to seat right.
 
Randall

There are many different types of mold making products out there from clay, alginate, rubber to silicone. The same is true for casting materials for replacement parts. The simplest is to go to a hobby store and buy a casting kit. My personal favorite is modeling clay and hydrocal (a harder form of plaster). I always used baby powder as a release agent for the molding.

As for the real issue, practice on your own samples prior to working on a clients possession.
 
A great source for information, molding and casting materials:

http://www.reynoldsam.com

I use alginate as a mold material. Bondo is an excellent casting material; easy to work. It can thinned by adding liquid Fiberglass Resin, to make it a pourable material, while still being somewhat thixotropic (it will stay in place). Plaster works well for certain kinds of ornaments, and both of these can be size or water gilt.
 
I often use Durham's water putty for the castings - available easily in hardware stores, and you can mix to desired thickness - whether thin for pouring, or thick for pressing into a mold that reflects the curves of a compo ornament that has been bent. Another advantage is that the pale tan color resembles the old compo, so if the surface is damaged accidentally (or distressed intentionally), it looks authentic.

There has been lots posted here over time about casting/repairs, so a search might turn up more detailed info.

Joseph
 
I use Ivoclar dental material for the mold. Hardness Shore A 85.
www.lvipublications.com "Step by step compo and mold making" by R.F.Loeffler.
I hope Bob is doing fine, he must be 86 this year.
 
Wow! "Step by step compo and mold making" is 871.00! Talk about price gouging! Does anyone have a good source for rabbit hide glue and talc?
Thanks!
 
 
If you look around Google at the independent bookstores, you will find Step by Step Compo and Mold Making for a modest $25 or so. Less than most of the current framing books.

Because I am a small independent business, I always dig deeper into the search results looking for another independent business. Amazon, et al are usually a last resort for me. But still there is a steady stream of brown boxes through my doors these days! :)

I recently had a conversation with an antique dealer on the subject of replacing missing ornamentation on gilded mirrors. His technique is to make a mold of a complete ornament using modeling clay. He then uses plaster to mold the whole ornament. But rather than cutting it to fit the missing piece, he removed the remainder of the missing ornament to avoid having to trim to fit.

I was initially horrified by this since it is more invasive than necessary, but the more I think about it, unless it is worthy of conservation which is beyond my level of skill, this method is more cost effective since it speeds up the process considerably.

I might give this method a try on some inexpensive thrift store finds to see how it holds up. I would probably use something less brittle than plaster, like Bondo, but most of my time when replacing ornaments is spent slowly trimming to fit.

:eek:
 
Depending on the job, I use 2-part silicone mold putty and either Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty or 2-part epoxy putty to make repairs on old frames. Sometimes I cast the repair parts and let them cure and then use the "cut to fit" method; sometimes I fill the mold with the desired filler and slap it onto the frame to let cure in place.

And for little repairs I use the epoxy putty and model it with my fingers, and possibly do a bit of carving and shaping or sanding after it cures. I have also used wooden beads split in half and threaded onto round toothpicks or tiny dowels to fill in a beaded lip.

I have a small box of all of the silicone molds I have made; sure I would be able to reuse them sooner or later on a new old frame. No such luck.

But practicing on thrift store finds is the only way to learn - never on a customer's treasure (whether it is or not).

And have fun!
 
If you look around Google at the independent bookstores, you will find Step by Step Compo and Mold Making for a modest $25 or so. Less than most of the current framing books.

Because I am a small independent business, I always dig deeper into the search results looking for another independent business. Amazon, et al are usually a last resort for me. But still there is a steady stream of brown boxes through my doors these days! :)

I recently had a conversation with an antique dealer on the subject of replacing missing ornamentation on gilded mirrors. His technique is to make a mold of a complete ornament using modeling clay. He then uses plaster to mold the whole ornament. But rather than cutting it to fit the missing piece, he removed the remainder of the missing ornament to avoid having to trim to fit.

I was initially horrified by this since it is more invasive than necessary, but the more I think about it, unless it is worthy of conservation which is beyond my level of skill, this method is more cost effective since it speeds up the process considerably.

I might give this method a try on some inexpensive thrift store finds to see how it holds up. I would probably use something less brittle than plaster, like Bondo, but most of my time when replacing ornaments is spent slowly trimming to fit.

:eek:
Thanks for the information. I love plaster but it is delicate. I actually found the 871.00 priced book on a independent booksellers site. It has been a frustrating experience . I know out of print books can be tricky to find but it does seem to be an exorbitant mark up.
 
There were still stores with $25 copies yesterday. On Amazon it was $670 or so.

I did not keep the search, but they were down the page on the Google results and on the second page. I have also learned that modifying the search by adding the author's name or a publication date can bring up results that are not the ususal suspects. Small bookstores to not find their way to the top of Google search results.

And it is always worth contacting Powells Books by phone or email. They are very large, maybe the largest used book operation in the US, and they sometimes have books that have not been added to their website or can quickly find a source for what you are looking for.
 
Compo recipes from another forum:

by JFeig » Wed 20 Feb, 2008 8:06 pm


COMPO - J
15gm. R. S. G. ; 75gm. hide glue; 40ml. raw linseed oil, 130ml. water, 500gm. whiting

COMPO - L
300 gm. hide glue; 246 gm rosin; 118 ml linseed oil; 5 ml glycerin; 1516 gm whitting

soften in water
melt rosin in linseed oil - double boiler
mix wet ingredients with whiting

KAPO - RELEASE FOR COMPO MOULDS
10 parts kerosene; 1 part parafin oil
 
Back
Top