I have a White Seild mirror that I'm working on restoring. The challenge I'm having is matching the gilding. The piece I need to restore is quite small and I thought perhaps a gilding paint versus gold leaf and trying to age it. Attached is a close up of a corner. Any advice on trying to match and age? Thanks
Match gilding?
- Thread starter Douglas61
- Start date
Bruce Papier
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2011
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- 1,282
You could use either paint or leaf and antique it with toning lacquer. The paint/lacquer combination will give you a wider range of color. The leaf/lacquer will give you a smoother finish.
Finest Fabric
MGF, Master Grumble Framer
That finish doesn't look like it was actually leafed to begin with
Rather it was probably "flash-gilded" with mica powder
or rubbed on with mica powder in a binding medium.
Quick, dirty, and appropriate would be some combo of Rub n' Buff colors. You
can tone the surface after it dries.
If you want to experiment with mica powders Talas has everything you need, see:
Rather it was probably "flash-gilded" with mica powder
or rubbed on with mica powder in a binding medium.
Quick, dirty, and appropriate would be some combo of Rub n' Buff colors. You
can tone the surface after it dries.
If you want to experiment with mica powders Talas has everything you need, see:
Yes I would say it is flash gilding and perhaps with bronze powder. You could tone the losses using watercolor (quality watercolor: Daniel Smith, Schmincke or Winsor Newton are great), and add mica watercolor for sparkle if necessary. I recommend having a Finetex mica watercolor kit which you can find at good art shops or online. You can get an empty box and buy the various pans of color that you may need. https://www.dickblick.com/products/finetec-artist-mica-watercolors/?srsltid=AfmBOooja3FRR6bqcSf1tbUJSqqRJtrYlaPn3KDiPaSnxE4F-LR85T2j Restricted Access 2023
Thanks for the feedback
Yes it seems a bit different than I've seen using leaf. Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for the feedback and the link.
Follow up, when you say "tone" the surface after it dries, could you be more speciic about toning process? Thx
Hello Douglas,
I am a picture frame restorer. That appears to be either Roman gilded or just painted in bronze powder paint. You could attempt to match the finish with bronze powder and toned shellac or Japan paint, but it takes some experience with the medium to avoid a glitter effect with modern bronze powder, and Micah powders tend to have similar issues. It's difficult to track down options with fine enough particle sizes.
The good news is, there's a much easier way to tone this very successfully. Use raw umber watercolor paint, thinned down so it will flow in the areas of loss, and gently wipe away any excess on the surface.
This is often more successful than bronze paint would be, even if you are experienced.
I am a picture frame restorer. That appears to be either Roman gilded or just painted in bronze powder paint. You could attempt to match the finish with bronze powder and toned shellac or Japan paint, but it takes some experience with the medium to avoid a glitter effect with modern bronze powder, and Micah powders tend to have similar issues. It's difficult to track down options with fine enough particle sizes.
The good news is, there's a much easier way to tone this very successfully. Use raw umber watercolor paint, thinned down so it will flow in the areas of loss, and gently wipe away any excess on the surface.
This is often more successful than bronze paint would be, even if you are experienced.
...I should have said, dab away the extra watercolor on the surface, don't wipe it!
The major problem with this project is that it was "painted" with some form of carrier that contained powdered metal known as "bronze powder" many years ago. Some of the terms for this method of surface coating have been called roman gilding, bronze paint, radiator paint, metallic spray paint, or just paint. Rabbit skin glue mixed with bronze powder was also used.
This powder alloy has a very large percentage of copper in the alloy that has tarnished over the years and is very very hard to perfectly match. Wax based products such as Rub n. Buff also will change color (tarnish) over time.
This powder alloy has a very large percentage of copper in the alloy that has tarnished over the years and is very very hard to perfectly match. Wax based products such as Rub n. Buff also will change color (tarnish) over time.
Thank you Sarah for the feedback and advice.
Thank yu for the feedback.
I do a lot of Powder Gilding and with a bit of practice you can replicate many finishes/effects.
I use 2.5 cut powder bound in varnish. The ready-mixed stuff I have been using is now disco'd
but I've had success using Damar crystals dissolved in Mineral Spirit. After it has dissolved the
fluid is stained and the gold powder is added gradually to the 'right' consistency. Too thin and
it doesn't cover well and too thick and it rubs off.
This produced quite a bright gold but you can knock it back by abrading it with fine steel wool
and adding toning with diluted acrylic paint. Combinations of Raw/Burnt umber and Black I find
most effective. Also dark furniture wax rubbed in is good but go steady, the solvent in the wax will
dissolve the varnish. This can be a good thing as it will expose the undercoat a tad.
This is powder gilded with a brown toning applied - heavier in the low points.
I use 2.5 cut powder bound in varnish. The ready-mixed stuff I have been using is now disco'd
but I've had success using Damar crystals dissolved in Mineral Spirit. After it has dissolved the
fluid is stained and the gold powder is added gradually to the 'right' consistency. Too thin and
it doesn't cover well and too thick and it rubs off.
This produced quite a bright gold but you can knock it back by abrading it with fine steel wool
and adding toning with diluted acrylic paint. Combinations of Raw/Burnt umber and Black I find
most effective. Also dark furniture wax rubbed in is good but go steady, the solvent in the wax will
dissolve the varnish. This can be a good thing as it will expose the undercoat a tad.
This is powder gilded with a brown toning applied - heavier in the low points.
Thanks for the feedback but afraid I'm a little out of my league..I do a lot of Powder Gilding and with a bit of practice you can replicate many finishes/effects.
I use 2.5 cut powder bound in varnish. The ready-mixed stuff I have been using is now disco'd
but I've had success using Damar crystals dissolved in Mineral Spirit. After it has dissolved the
fluid is stained and the gold powder is added gradually to the 'right' consistency. Too thin and
it doesn't cover well and too thick and it rubs off.
This produced quite a bright gold but you can knock it back by abrading it with fine steel wool
and adding toning with diluted acrylic paint. Combinations of Raw/Burnt umber and Black I find
most effective. Also dark furniture wax rubbed in is good but go steady, the solvent in the wax will
dissolve the varnish. This can be a good thing as it will expose the undercoat a tad.
This is powder gilded with a brown toning applied - heavier in the low points. View attachment 50683
1. What exactly is 2.5 cut powder? Is this gold or imitation gold?
2. Do you use a particular sheen of varnish
3. Is Disco'd a brand name of powder
Thanks
Yes matching will be a problem with many ways to consider. Thanks for the feedback
The frame is 99% wood but a problem area is the corner flourish which is plaster and I'm in the process of repairing that but
Thanks Bruce
Pardon my Jargon.
2.5 cut is the color of the powder. It is imitation gold. I have found this the most versatile mix.
It's a alloy of copper and zinc and the proportions denote the color.
Real gold powder can be bought but astronomically expensive.
The main thing with the varnish is that it should be tough and dry quickly. Removable with
mineral spirit. It's quite glossy on it's own but gives a soft lustre with gold powder mixed in.
"Disco'd" = Discontinued.
#2.5 leaf/ powder is 85% Copper and 15% Zinc(AKA brass). This alloy most resembles 23k gold. The most common grades are 1, 2, 2.5, 3. Then there aluminum(for the silver color) and 99% copper as well.
Last edited:
Thank youPardon my Jargon.
2.5 cut is the color of the powder. It is imitation gold. I have found this the most versatile mix.
It's a alloy of copper and zinc and the proportions denote the color.
Real gold powder can be bought but astronomically expensive.
The main thing with the varnish is that it should be tough and dry quickly. Removable with
mineral spirit. It's quite glossy on it's own but gives a soft lustre with gold powder mixed in.
"Disco'd" = Discontinued.