Mat fighting with frame spacer!

Rozmataz

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I just had a frame package come back for "repair".

Seems the frame spacer is pushing on the mat. It is at the edge so it is where the bottom mat allowance behind is smaller and is pushing on the gap and causing the top mat and bottom mats to separate and LOOK TERRIBLE. It is terrible.

I didn't even realize this problem would occur but now I have to correct it with some fill in board - unless someone has a better solution!!

The frame spacer is necessary for a wax seal that sits on the top.

Thanks, Roz
 

Baer Charlton

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Sometimes in the past, I have put a fillet in the frame then slugged out the space with the framespace
(1/4") laying on it's side.

Another great reason to not scab second mats, mount boards and backers.

Sorry, just one of my pet peeves.
 

Rozmataz

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Baer,

Do you fill the gap with a fillet? or frame space?

What do you mean by "scab"?! (re-use?)

I'm a'confused!

Thanks, though.

Roz
 

Barb Pelton

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My preference is that the bottom mat is the same size as the top mat, or within 1/16" around if cutting a double mat by hand, or else you may get this exact problem.

I try not to put too much pressure on the frame package when shooting it in the frame. Just shoot it in holding the gun level and small amount of downward pressure (not an angle) and the pressure should be well distributed within the frame package.
 

FF_Hoboken

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In lieu of the spacer, you could lift the top mat or both mats; using mat board or foamcore either between the two mats or between the bottom mat and backing board to create the additional space needed without spacing between glass and the top mat. This works well if matting over the edges of artwork, no good for floating (unless with a second mat around the artwork...
 

Rozmataz

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Barb - In the future all double mats with spacers will be cut with a much smaller allowance on the bottom board - that's what is causing all the trouble. But now to correct it... yikes, engineering 101! Who knew framing could be so much fun!
 

Greg Fremstad

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I would recommend two ideas here:

When you are cutting double mats - cut the blank for the second mat just 1/16 overall smaller than the front mat. (Remember, the reason for cutting the second mat smaller is so that you guide from the front mat for cutting both openings.) The 1/8 or 1/4 inch smaller we were taught is waaaay too much IMHO.

As Barb said, no pressure on your fitting points. Everything in the frame WILL expand and contract with changes in humidity. If you put ANY pressure with your points (or heaven forbid - spring clips) it will hinder the free expansion and the mats and/or art work my buckle.

All point drivers are designed to be fired whilst laying flat on the backer. They have designed them to be loose on purpose. If you tilt the gun and compress the backer, you will stand a good chance of buckling the backer (and the art if it is under the points).

Rattling beats buckling.

PS: When I cut double mats, I line up the bottom edges of both mats so that when they are in the frame, they are both sitting on the bottom frame leg. They will never slip! You can line them up by standing them up before you squeeze the ATG together.
These two edges will be paralell, the other three sides of the back mat will not touch the mat cutting guide because they are back from the edge of the front mat 1/32 inch or so.
 

Rozmataz

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Thanks for the direction. Will definitely take into consideration in future similar situations...

Meantime - the wax seal sits on top of the mats within the border area... so I need a frame spacer... I wanted to design "around" the seal - but I let the customer nudge me into this way...

Now I have to "fill" the back of the mats...
 

Baer Charlton

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Roz,

Sorry, I didn't mean to confuse.

When I have to framespace like you have to, I try to add a fillet to the frame, that way I have a visual 1/2" or more rabbit to framespace under.

Then when I turn a 1/4" framespace on its side so the 1/4" lays flat on the mat and glass, or stack two high, I still get an unseen 1/4" of "rabbit" for the mat to press against.

"Scab" is taking a sheet of matboard that just fills the opening to make the inner mat, but doesn't come close to the outside dimentions.

I have seen these where the inner mat lets go along with the pictue and is just rattling around in the frame behind the front mat.....
faintthud.gif


Like Greg says, I like to cut my second mat about 1/16th shorter and 1/8" narrower, and match the feet, leaving only a 1/16th around for perfect marking.

Remember, every framejob is your billboard for the next 50 years.
 

Pat Murphey

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If you're using a wall cutter, i.e. Fletcher 3000, you can cut both mats at the same time on top of one another. Mark the backs for orientation - the windows will then line up. I got in the habit of using this method before the Wizard because I use fillets on the vast majority of my frame sales. The usual method of cutting the back mat smaller doesn't work with the reverse bevels required for fillets.

Pat :D
 

Rozmataz

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Originally posted by Baer Charlton:
Remember, every framejob is your billboard for the next 50 years.
So true!!

Thanks for all the great info and ideas for now and for the future!!

PS Baer, I hate scab mats too. Have found them in packages I have taken apart - at least some prior work was filled in... but I still like a neat clean package
 
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