Mat Borders Gone Wild!

Create a Post
E

earlydreams

Grumbler
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Posts
16
Loc
Colorado
Mat Borders Gone Wild!
Trying to figure out how to cut really wide mat borders on my Fletcher 2100. Mat borders have to be around 10 inches wide. The scale on the 60 inch model goes to 11 1/2 inches but the base only goes to 7 1/2. Therefore, the mat guide "drops" off the edge of the base and is unsupported. I've tried supporting the floating mat guide with multiple layers of foamboard with limited success. There has to be a better way considering that Fletcher decided to extend the "mat guide slide" that far.

Also, the bracket on the "upper locking knob" restricts you from setting the mat guide in excess of 8 inches. If I remove this knob, then the upper section of the guide is just floating free and unsquare cuts are the result.

Searched the archives for solution to no avail. Would like to purchase a CMC to alleviate this problem. But gots no moola right now.

Len Brewer
 
Len,

I use a C&H AdvantagePro mat cutter, so I am not familiar with the Fletcher, but when I have to cut mat borders that are wider than what the guides on my mat cutter can handle, I remove the parallel guide altogether. I simply draw the lines for the mat border on the back of the mat, then line it up under the cutting bar on the mat cutter and go at it. It always works for me. To make sure the mat is lined up exactly, I press the cutter down gently until the blade just touches the pencil line. I do this at the top and bottom of the line, then I know it is square to the cutting bar. Yes, it takes longer, but it is what it is.

I hope that was a clear enough explanation.

-Mike.
 
I remove the parallel guide altogether. I simply draw the lines for the mat border on the back of the mat, then line it up under the cutting bar on the mat cutter and go at it. It always works for me. To make sure the mat is lined up exactly, I press the cutter down gently until the blade just touches the pencil line. I do this at the top and bottom of the line, then I know it is square to the cutting bar.
Click to expand...
That is the way I learned to cut a mat with a Keeton mat cutter. There was no parallel guide to remove however.

At that time we also had an "old timer" who refused to use the "new invention" and cut his mats with a steel straight edge and a draw knife. He honed the knife with a piece of sandpaper after each mat was cut.

[ 02-14-2004, 03:16 PM: Message edited by: JFeig ]
 
There is a very simple solution.

Fletcher sells base plate extensions for their cutters. If you look at your exisiting Fletcher cutter is is made from two base extensions bolted together. From memory each base plate is 7 or 7.5 inches wide. You simply add these extensions along with a new longer mat guide slide. If you are serious contact me and I can price them out for you on Monday. In 17 years distributing Fletcher products I have sold two of these and in both cases they were for customers doing a lot of multi-opening mats. From memory a single 60” extension is about $275 US$ plus freight to you from Fletcher.

Alan
 
Originally posted by earlydreams:
......Trying to figure out how to cut really wide mat borders on my Fletcher 2100. Mat borders have to be around 10 inches wide. The scale on the 60 inch model goes to 11 1/2 inches but the base only goes to 7 1/2....
Click to expand...
Len,

As the Mat Guide itself is measured from it's right side/edge, then the width of the guide has to be greater than the distance it's actally measuring. You'll agree that it's maximum width is about 7-1/2 to 8 inches. In this manner the guide can be clamped securely, and the top knob can also be anchored for additional stability.

Earlier mat cutters used to have a range of only about 6-1/2 inches so already you're ahead, but obviously not wide enough to accomodate the 10 inch wide mats you desire to create.

...... There has to be a better way considering.........
Click to expand...
There is......Read on.......

......Also, the bracket on the "upper locking knob" restricts you from setting the mat guide in excess of 8 inches. .........
Click to expand...
Indeed, as this is the maximum range of the mat guide in it's normal configuration. Although it is not necessary to anchor the top of the mat guide when cutting mats, it becomes more important to have the guide stable when cutting larger, oversized mats, as in your situation.

As Alan indicated, Fletcher-Terry does make available extension bases to increase the measuring/cutting capacity of it's straight line cutters. The extension base mounts to the left side of your machine, extending it's border cutting width to 17-1/2 inches. You can see these optional accessories here: Fletcher-Terry F-2200 Accessories As you own an F-2100 - 60 inch machine, you would need part #04-627.

The extension base is useful for not only for cutting wider border widths, but is also key to successfully cutting title mats and multiple opening mats.
<center>
2100.accessory1.jpg
</center>
The option includes a wider base which mounts permanantly onto your cutter, new end caps to connect all three base components together, a longer mat guide slide, and a new upper scale for your measuring stops, as well as an extended bottom scale.

This option can be installed to older F-2000 and F-2100 machines as well as the new F-2200.

Prior to owning a CMC in our shop, I had two F-2100's in use. One was setup with this option which we found to be imperatively useful.

John

[ 02-14-2004, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: John Ranes II, CPF, GCF ]
 
If the Fletcher has a squaring arm on the right (like the C&H), you can use it to determine bevel cuts from the left.

For example, if your overall mat width is, say, 22 inches and you need to make a 10 inch cut and your guide bar is 2-1/2” (measure it exactly) the math is 22” minus 10 minus 2.5 = 9.5.

Therefore, set the squaring arm stop at 9-1/2”, slide your mat board so that it is against this stop and make your cut on the left as usual.

I have an extension which takes me out to 14 inches, too, but some times it is not enough.

The value of this method is that you don’t have to worry about getting your blade exactly on the pencil line – invaluable if you are cutting double or triple mats.
 
Allan,
That base extension is a good idea. I might give you a call on that.

John Ranes,
I read that the new 2200 allows for wider mat borders. Do you know if the base is any wider. Also, in your opinion, if one owns the 2100 already, do you think there would be any justifiable reason to sell the 2100 and purchase the 2200?

Len
 
Originally posted by earlydreams:
....That base extension is a good idea. I might give you a call on that....
Click to expand...
Len,

Absolutely the way to go. Using the Squaring Arm may "work" but it violates the fundamental principle of mat cutting....openings cut on parallel relationship to the outside edge. The squaring arm would have those cuts based on perpendicularity to another side. As most of us already know.....Boards are not always perfectly square!

....I read that the new 2200 allows for wider mat borders. Do you know if the base is any wider. Also, in your opinion, if one owns the 2100 already, do you think there would be any justifiable reason to sell the 2100 and purchase the 2200?
Click to expand...
The size of the machine is the same as the F-2100, and therefore the border width cutting capacity is also the same. However......

The Locator Pin feature has been improved so that the appropriate holes now go out past the five inch mark on the F-2100 to the full wider range of the mat guide.

There were also several other improvements made that came from customer feedback. One of the most significant is the straight side cutting magazine which utilizes a utility blade and an oversized comfort grip for this side. If the framer sizes most of the outside dimensions on a straight line matcutter Vs. a Wall cutter, then this change alone might warrant a upgrading to the new F-2200.

So this post doesn't turn into an advertorial, that kind of decision is really based on multiple factors. Most framers know that upgrading mat cutters is a fairly painless economical decision, as used equipment sells easily, and retains a fairly large percentage of it's original cost.

The other changes are outlined in the Fletcher-Terry trade inserts as they've appeared in Decor and PFM Magazine.

For those attending New York Decor Expo in 2 weeks, please stop by and say hello.

John

[ 02-15-2004, 08:47 PM: Message edited by: John Ranes II, CPF, GCF ]
 
John and Allan's solutions are obviously the best alternative to this problem.

My point was, if it is/was a rare instance where you had to cut a very wide border such as this, then drawing lines as I described was a quick and easy solution, and less expensive. However, if you are going to do them on a somewhat regular basis, then the add-on equipment is the way to go.

But sometimes the "old-fashioned way" works too.


-Mike.
 
sometimes the "old-fashioned way" works too.
-Mike.

Way back in the stone(ed?) age, when Ira Frencle trained me to cut mats, he stressed that I should not be allowed to cut a mat for a customer before I could cut one perfectly without a guide or stops. it's almost 25 years later, and I rarely, if ever use either except if I'm cutting an 8-ply mat.
My advice is to bone up on your mat cutting skills with your excess mat, draw your 10" borders, and get to cutting. ;)
:D :cool:
 
Mike~
Thanks for the tip. I really must try to get the extension plate, but it won't fit on my current table. So I have to wait for the plate, but I can use that tip right away! I can't wait to try it. So simple! THANKS!

 
I have to agree with Seth. What is so difficult about marking the mat and cutting to your marks? You just have to know how far from the bar edge the blade contacts the mat, and be sure to keep your board securely steady under the cutter bar so it doesn't slip.
I normally use the guide and stops for routine work, but anything weird- oversize, odd shapes, etc., gets marked and cut. It opens a lot of possibilities. One of the things I have on display that gets the most comments is a little picture of a toddler playing the drums. I cut the mat in a repeated zig-zag fashion, like they show explosions in comic books. People love it. It took me about five minutes to mark out on the mat with a ruler, and with a little care was easy to cut.
:cool: Rick
P.S. Here he is:
drummerboy.jpg
Looks a bit like a baby Phil Collins, doesn't he? I have the full size poster of this image at home, hanging over my drum set.

[ 02-21-2004, 02:39 PM: Message edited by: Rick Granick ]
 
Rick,
That's a great picture, and a great mat. Nice to know that some others agree with marking and cutting mats when outside the "norm". Sometimes I think we become slaves to some of the equipment that makes things easier. It's nice to have, but not always necessary. But I WOULD be lost without my calculator. :D

Also, where did you get that print of Jr.?


-Mike.
 
Thanks. I think it was an ad for Bruce McGaw or Graphique de France. The actual poster is about 20 x 24, although I think it may come in a smaller size too. This image is more like 8 x 10. I originally framed it to use up an extra metal frame I had sitting around.
:cool: Rick
 
Create a Post
Back
Top