Mat Blade Half-life?

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Val

Val

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Nov 21, 2005
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Carson City, Nevada
(I thought I posted this earlier and can't find it now....if it shows up, pardon the redundancy)

Has anyone figured out how to use both ends of a mat cutter blade when cutting mats? As in, when one tip gets dull, turn it around and use the other end? I've tried to insert it oh-so-carefully into the blade cartridge (Fletcher 2200) but the 2nd end is more dull than the first, and has never even been used! 1200 or 1500 doesn't matter.

Of course, I recycle them for paper trimming, etc, but would like to get more mileage with each blade, i.e. both ends, for mat cutting. It's like having a drawer full of single socks. Seems such a waste.
 
Val -

It may be that they are single edge blades? And aren't meant to be used on both ends. I know the blades I use are double edged.

Roz
 
I've been told the blade gets dulled when you slide it into the blade holder. That turning it around you run the risk of having burrs on the blade and trashing a mat. Therefore I don't try to use both sides, as I was told "you need to decide whether to ruin a $9 mat or a 60¢ blade" Me I opt for throwing out the 60¢ blade!
 
Yes, I throw out the 60-cent blade, I've learned that, but I still try it out once in awhile on a scrap (don't know why I think it might change! Ha!). Either end works fine, the first time, but only one end at a time, not both, so yes, I guess it's the inserting that dulls it.

Guess it isn't just me then, huh? And, basically I'm paying for a full box of blades, but only "getting use of" a half box?

So, is that what they mean by a double-edge blade, Roz? You can use both ends of yours? What mat cutter do you use? And which brand blades do you use and where do you get them?
 
I have a C&H mat cutter and used to use the 1200 blades on both sides.
When I switched to the single edge 1200SE blades some years agos, I noticed that I got a much cleaner cut, less hooks, etc. I've been told (somewhere by someone??) that the thicker body of the blade is what improves the cuts.
Now days I don't hesitate to change the blade at any time.
 
I have no data for my opinion, but I believe that the edges get dull not only from use but exposure to air. I think the unused, sharpened end of the blade bevel oxidizes a little bit, so regardless of how careful we are inserting the blade, it is virtually unusable.

I use United’s #1200 blades which are individually wrapped in paper. Once the paper comes off, the dulling begins … I think.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!
 
Blades

We use the Fletcher 2100 with the .012 Super Keen mat cutter blades and have never had a problem using both ends of the blades. I don't know any tricks of the trade to sliding it in the cartridge, just that it's never been an issue for us.

Lori
 
I believe a long time ago, someone suggested using the 900SE if you wanted perfect cuts. I switched to those and have not had a hook since. Seems that would belie the idea that the thicker blade is better??

The 900SEs are $10.45 per 100 from United.
 
I have used all kinds of manual mat cutters and never had a blade get dull from being simply exposed to the air (now, exposure to salt air over a period of days will do the trick, but I do very little mat cutting outside).
If the simple act of putting the blade in the head dulls it, there's got to be something wrong. I would be inclined to pull the head apart and check for burrs from the milling process.

I know I've mentioned this before, but it still tickles me. I bought a used Barton 60" cutter from one of my competitors years ago. He was having trouble with it, though he didn't say so, and I had been borrowing it so often, he just offered to sell it to me cheap if he could borrow it form me. He did eventually fess up that he was getting bad cuts from it about half the time and he just never could figure out why. Along with the cutter came a pack of SE1200 blades. Figured out later that he was using both ends.
 
I'm getting fine cuts, no hooks, and change blades at the slightest feel of dull, I just wondered why I can't flop it around and use both tips. I'm using C&H No. 1200. Might try something else next box. I'm halfway through this one. Oooor....switch in mid-box and save these for extras.

Lori, where do you get your .012 SuperKeens?

Wally...brand-new mat cutter, shouldn't it come all set-up okay? No other problems, and I had the same problem with a Fletcher 2100 before...ony one blade end useable. It uses a blade cartridge.
 
I used 1200 and 1500 C&H blades in my Advantage Pro for over 10 years and never had an issue with turning the blades around as Randy said. I switched to 1200SE about 10 years ago and I also had better cuts and no hooks as Cathie related with the 900SE.

Now if you put the SE blades in backwards they have a tendency to wander all over the place. But that isn't the case with the standard 1200 and 1500 blades at all. I would be checking your cutter head out as Wally suggested for some kind of manufacturing defect. That problem had never come up in my mat cutting experiences at all that I can recall.

Framerguy
 
I have used the 900SE for a couple of years and think that they are fantastic. Even use them on suede matboard--shallow cuts first before the final plunge--and they work very well for me. I only use the one side and use the other side to trim the backing paper. I usually try to change the blade after a couple of mats, especially if I have to make inticate cuts. Have a great day!!!!!!!! Bud Cole
 
In defense of my admittedly unsupported claim that it is the air that corrodes the edges …

My belief stems from the fact that I seem to have no problems with using both “other” ends of a Stanley 1991 blade in the C&H 4060 or in my C&H 210-48. These blades often still have residual oil on them (used in the manufacturing process?) which, I believe, retards the oxidation process. I almost always need to wash my hands following the changing of these #1991 blades. I don't feel any oil on a #1200 or #1500 blade.

Again, it’s more of a gut feeling than anything else.
 
Val, the cassette that holds the blade shouldn't damage it. Just because the tool is brand new doesn't mean that it is flaw free, or not in need of adjustment. Transportation can knock stuff out of line, and freshly machined parts can have burrs.
Something is causing the blade to become dull, unlike humans they don't do that on their own.:icon21:
 
I use a Fletcher 2100 and have been able to use both ends of the blade w/ good results. I change blades after 2 mats.

Amy
 
Blade Half-Life

Hello. I was the CH Product Manager for 10 years with N&B, and was quite involced with blade quality and life. The bevel cut blades are custom made. They are wrapped in a waxy paper that inhibits rust. The reason being is that the oil on the utility, standard blades, is messy and can transfer to the mats. Sometimes you can ruin the side of the blade that is inserted into the blade holder. If you tilt the corner of the blade up slightly while putting it in, you may be able to avoid this. Also, the Single edge blades are honed on one side, so they remain more rigid - less flex. That is why some find them desireable. As for a thicker blade being better, this is not true - they may not dull as quickly, but they are harder to pull thru a mat (e.g. - compare cutting a steak with a butter knife vs. a steak knife). The thinner the blade, the quicker it may need to be changed, but you may get superior results.
 
Patty Kay, thank you for your input and welcome to the Grumble!

It appears there might be some hope in lengthening the life of our mat cutter blades, or finding better ones, and I have some homework to do, now that I have everyone's input. Will be checking out some options and reporting back.

Thanks everyone!
 
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