Manual V-groove

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Home Based Framer

Home Based Framer

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Joined
Oct 20, 2008
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Dela-where? Dover Delaware
Hi Framing Gurus,

Us slow retirees here in DE lost some important info in a senior moment. We were visiting an art shop a couple hours from here and got chatty with the framer in the back. We noticed that some of his single matted prints had a accent line in the mat. Being that we don't do much with matting that was new to us. I think he said that was called a V-groove. ?? He showed us a little plastic device he added to his mat cutter make the slight cut.. but I lost the name of it. ;((

We are looking for such a device . We don't know if it has to be made for a specific cutter.... ours is a CH Advantage Pro.

Does anyone know what or where we could find such a device?

Thanks much for your help!!
 
Get the manual out for your matcutter, it shows you how to cut a v-groove :)


  1. Basically subtract the width of the v-groove to the opening, from the opening and set the mat guide.
  2. Cut the opening
  3. Flip the drop out upside down and slice a 1/16th inch off it.
  4. put the drop out back in.
  5. cut the opening.
More intermediate steps involved, taping and the like, but once you get it it's easy.

If you can't find the manual it can be downloaded from here :)
 
Sooo simple,and looks cool.. Forget the add on gadgets and try what Bob Doyle,etc. mentioned. Works like a charm. :D L
 
I have a few of the attachments for doing a grooved mat and none of them is as accurate and dependable as the "split-off" method developed by Bob Hendrixson as described above. The trick is to have or build a jig so you can split off a consistant width of the face bevel every time.
Your mat guide can work, but you need to move it out of position to make the cut since it is so close to the bar & cutter head. Making a stop so you can move the mat guide back into the same position time after time allows for consistant v-grooves.
 
wpfay said:
I have a few of the attachments for doing a grooved mat and none of them is as accurate and dependable as the "split-off" method developed by Bob Hendrixson as described above. The trick is to have or build a jig so you can split off a consistant width of the face bevel every time.
Your mat guide can work, but you need to move it out of position to make the cut since it is so close to the bar & cutter head. Making a stop so you can move the mat guide back into the same position time after time allows for consistant v-grooves.
Click to expand...

The Fletcher 2xxx models have a guide stop specifically designed for consistent v-groove width.
 
I think the C&H actually uses the adjusting stops as the v-groove stops. I remember some really easy method for getting the v-grooves right on my C&H, that I can't do with my Fletcher. If I remember right the adjusting blocks had two different measurements so that turned one way they were 1/8" and the other they were 3/16th... or something like that.

But I am probably not remembering right :)
 
I've always done them like that and I've done a lot. ;)


My venerable C&H has a grooving stop which I set when it was new and I have never shifted it. One thing with my cutter (the later models are different I think) is that the guide bar needs locking at both ends. Not normally a huge prob, but on long grooves The cutter bar and guide bar need to be exactly parallel. I have a drill bit which is just the right size to use as a feeler gauge near the far lock nut so that I know the bars are the same distance apart.
Even on cutters with different arrangements for locking the bar, it's worth doing this. Especially if you haven't checked the calibration recently.:p
A slight deviation isn't noticeable when cutting wide borders, but variations on a groove will be. The longer the groove the worse.

** The running start when shaving the dropout bevel is very important. ;)
 
Prosper, i hate when the matboard slips when cutting the v-groove :)

I get in the groove of "slice" "flick" the board so the curly cue flies away, slice flick slice flick then forget to hold the bar and go slice, twist, arggh, start over.... :)

Have never been able to get a consistent inlay. Is it "cut the blank, atg mat and cut again with the same borders"?

Been years of 4 straight lines and double mats, very little v-grooving, inlaying or cove corners.
 
Pat Murphey said:
The Fletcher 2xxx models have a guide stop specifically designed for consistent v-groove width.
Click to expand...

AMEN!!! Slick as can be....I would use a beveled "lead in" piece of scrap board to make sure the corner is nice and straight. That blade hitting the resistance of the piece being "shaved" sometimes makes the initial cut want to hook a bit. L.
 
Luddite said:
I would use a beveled "lead in" piece of scrap board to make sure the corner is nice and straight. That blade hitting the resistance of the piece being "shaved" sometimes makes the initial cut want to hook a bit.
Click to expand...

Very good advice. That simple step is the "secret" to consistent v-grooves on a manual cutter. Use the same type (thickness) of board as you are v-grooving for the lead-in piece.
:cool: Rick
 
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