Managing Glass

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Z David

Z David

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Posts
944
Loc
Texas
I've got to find a better way to manage my glass!
I currently have boxes of glass leaning against the wall in 2 spots (and I don't have more space to create more spots).
The boxes are mostly 32 X 40 and 24 X 30.

Consequently I'm constantly moving glass boxes around to get to the box of glass that I need. It's a PIA and a time waster! (Also not always good for the old back)

I've thought about getting some kind of rack made to hold the boxes in place so that they aren't leaning against each other and then I could pull-out a lite without moving anything.
Another option could be to re-dedicate space under my work table... but I would have to make something to hold the glass horizontally (because of the way my table is built, it would have to be horizontal).

Those of you who have a satisfactory approach to this... what do you do? What are the pros and cons to your approach?



Z
 
There was a book in the decor library on making workshop furniture. One item was a glass storage center. I have also seen some really nice glass storage centers in old fashioned hardware stores. Basically plywood boxes that have compartments that the full boxes can slide into. Dividers are great as they keep the glass from breaking or leaning on other boxes. Be sure you have enough room in front of the boxes to pull the glass in and out.

I use plywood carriers for moving full boxes of glass, get mine at HomeDepot for around $5. Plastic plywood caddy, works great.
 
I just have them in the end of the mat board rack with the end of the case cut off. Slide out the closest size and cut. Stocking a large number of size cases allows for very little scrap to deal with after cutting. Just be careful to not pull the kraft paper out with the lite on coated glass so you can slip a scrap back in the case without scratching.
 
Make sure dividers are plywood too. Mine were made from 1/4" masonite and they warped and belly this way and that, making the units either smaller or larger and sometimes impossible to retrieve a sheet of matboard from, much less a lite of glass.

(Hmmm - I just thought of something - I ought to go buy some plywood and have it sawed to the size I need and replace those stupid warped masonite pieces!) (Right, next time I have the extra moola and the time to empty all of my bins.) (IOW, not in this lifetime.) (LOL)
 
What are the odds of come back as a custom picture framer in the next life?






Z
 
I just had a little Walter Mitty moment, imagining boxes of glass on slidey tracks
like pocket doors run (or sliding cupboard drawers) along. With little wheels on
the thingy under the box, and a solid backing behind it the size of the box, so you
could roll it out and open it up in place. But it would have to both have enough of
a platform to support the box and be flat in front to allow for opening the flaps.
That is, if you're someone like me who opens flaps and lifts out glass, rather than
just cutting off and end and sliding the glass out. You could slide the box out, use
the glass, then slide it back in.

Plus, since this is already a fantasy, there's bacon.


bacon%20large.jpg
 
Unless you're a vegetarian. In which case.....

aubergine_-_eggplant.jpg



I'm curious as to what different kinds of glass you sell. Is there one you use more than others?
 
I sell Conservation Clear the Most, 2nd would be Museum Glass, 3rd would be Conservation Reflection Control, 4th would be regular glass, 5th would be acrylic.

Shayla... it must be getting close to dinner time!






Z
 
When I had more space I had a rack made.
Think two pieces of wood parallel the holes drilled into them to fit dowel rods.
About 2
1 1/2 diameter . Kinda like a fence. But you can fit a box of glass between each.
Kinda like your boxes leaning against each other..... Only separated by the dowel rods.
Clear as mud?? :)
 
Nicole, makes me want to go to the house salvage center and get some stair banisters :) 3 of them, a front back and middle could provide the support needed for a full box of glass... Just have to be sure that they are 33" or more in height....
 
I built an 8 foot long rack for mats, foam and glass. This is an older picture but its getting a little full. I may be extending it in the near future.

shop9.jpg


Given the extreme weight of mats and glass, the rack was built to support the weight. It is anchored to the ceiling beams and is very stable. The height is about 10 feet with 2x4 separators and plywood decks. The middle level is for mats as my back prefers that I not bend over whenever possible. The top level is mainly for boxes (empty foam core/mat boxes and larger shipping boxes). The bottom level is for foam, discontinued mats, flawboard and glass. You can also see some glass under the mat cutter table in the foreground.

There are only 4 vertical posts that go from the bottom to the top - you can see this if you look at the top level. The other 2x4 posts on each level can be moved as needed - wider for foam - narrower for mats.

I use acrylic for all my online sales but keep some glass around for a few lingering customers from my brick&mortar days.
 
Thank you all.

I'm getting the impression that the preferred way to manage the glass is vertical vs. horizontal... which makes sense to me... but I was wanting to keep an open mind.

Nicole... I think I follow you, but what gave it structural integrity? Did you have it cross braced on the end (backside) or anchored in some way? I'm thinking that with all of the weight of the glass it could end up looking like a parallelogram or worse! I had been thinking about doing something similar, but with welded rebar.






Z
 
Larry...

I'm obviously curious... what are the little yellow notes attached to your matboards?






Z
 
Z David said:
Larry...

I'm obviously curious... what are the little yellow notes attached to your matboards?

Z
Click to expand...

Those are Post Its with the Mat# on it. None of this rooting in the dark around trying to find a mat. Mine are in numerical order. I'll post a closeup later when I get home.
 
Our mat storage is similar, but I just write the mat number on the uppermost back corner of the mat,
along with an A, B or C, for which company it's from. (i.e. B8141)
 
During the hours I was awake too early this morning, my little noggin spent a bit of time
pondering the 'slidey' glass track idea. I'm not very good at figuring those kinds of things
out, but will try to remember to ask Dirk. He can think of good solutions. Although it's
likely a sure bet that there are Grumblers with amazingly efficient storage systems.
 
Z David said:
Thank you all.

I'm getting the impression that the preferred way to manage the glass is vertical vs. horizontal... which makes sense to me... but I was wanting to keep an open mind.

Nicole... I think I follow you, but what gave it structural integrity? Did you have it cross braced on the end (backside) or anchored in some way? I'm thinking that with all of the weight of the glass it could end up looking like a parallelogram or worse! I had been thinking about doing something similar, but with welded rebar.

Z
Click to expand...

Yeeeeeeeeeeep ..... it was braced at the bottom... It was kinda nice to have it made out of wood dowels since they kinda gave a little when you were flipping thru the boxes. My LJ driver always said he couldnt explain how it didnt break apart.. but I had about 2 boxes of 24x36 in some and 32x40.

I have a picture somewhere.......
 
I probably should have posted a photo from the start.
This is the area where I keep my glass... as you can see it's a small space in front of a window... with my matboard cabinet on the left and wall cutter on the right giving me about 16" depth to work with.
I currently have 12 boxes leaning against the wall.
That's what I have to work with space wise. I have a basement workshop, but carrying glass up the u-shaped stairs would be an accident waiting to happen.

Glass area.jpg
 
Shayla the weight of the glass would really bend any affordable drawer slide system. You would want a secondary support wheel on the leading edge of the pullout drawer. Then you would want to figure out what that wheel would roll on, whether it is the floor directly or a track of its own. Then does that track pose a tripping hazard?

Big round bearings may be better than a drawer slide to hold the weight of the glass, but what would support the glass from wanting to tip forward or backward once the drawer is pulled out? How much room would the hidden support systems take up in the designing of the drawers?
 
I have three wider slots to store the full boxes (I only stock 32 x 40), stored vertically.

When I pull a full sheet, the usuable cut offs go in a different slot, sandwiched between cut offs of foam board. I between the slots I put a kinda ruler for measurements, so I can easily see size of glass (at least approximate).
 
I like to pull the glass out from the side for one main reason. If the glass slips in my hand while sliding it out I don't get hurt, when the glass slips as I am lifting the glass straight up I cut my hands. Really nicely too. well a second reason that comes to mind is if I drop the pane of glass while sliding it out it is less likely to break than if I had lifted it above the height of the box....
 
Larry Peterson said:
Those are Post Its with the Mat# on it. None of this rooting in the dark around trying to find a mat. Mine are in numerical order. I'll post a closeup later when I get home.
Click to expand...

Here we go. Focus isn't too great but you can get the idea. Probably not everyone's hunk of cheese but it works for me.

shop38.jpg
 
Thanks guys and gals!

These are the kernels of experience, knowledge, and wisdom that I appreciate so much from the Grumble!





Z
 
Hey Z......... here's a picture of the rack that my baking stones sit in on top of my fridge.

My glass rack was the same way only bigger.... Obviously the bigger glass in the back.
I think it stood awayfrom the wall about 4' or so..... :shrug:

HOpe that helps! Good luck.

ps I have no idea why it turned sideways.......
 

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Thanks Nicole!
Curiously, I had been thinking about something very similar using welded re-bar... only because a bigger diameter re-bar wouldn't give under the leaning weight of the glass.




Z
 
Our glass storage unit consists of 3 levels divided into vertical bins. 7 bins wide, each holding different sizes of like glass. (ie, regular, non-glare, consv clear, consv ng, museum, acrylic, etc. Full boxes on the bottom level, partial pieces directly above in center row. Scraps are divided with cardboard to prevent scratching and damage. Boxes are opened & accessed from the end.

Top row is for long term storage of framed art, cardboard & misc. Two larger slots for oversized glass, acrylic, and foamcore.

Cabinet is constructed of 3/4" particle board, painted, with carpet on the shelf to keep the glass from cutting into the wood.

Glass cutter is right around the corner from the storage unit.

We store our Bainbridge matboard in bins under a center work counter and Artique under the wizard. Crescent under another counter. All matboard is filed by number.
 

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Very nice, neat and organized Steve... which is something I want to continually strive for!





Z
 
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