Making Frame Lips Wider

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Shayla

Shayla

WOW Framer
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Apr 5, 2008
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Washington State
Just designed framing for a 48 x 72 canvas transfer that's stretched
and in a previous frame. They had it in a crate, and I went over to
see it, measuring stretcher bar depth, etc..., but I wasn't able to see
how wide their frame lip was.

We finally got the piece in the shop today and first thing I did was have
it taken out. Sure enough, their old frame lip was about 5/8" wide, plus
the stretcher bar is out of square. The lip on what we designed is 1/4",
so there would be a nasty unfaded line all the way around. In the past,
for things like this, we've either re-stretched (but I don't want to do this
because it's a paper canvas transfer) or added a fillet to fill up the extra
room. If they don't want to do that, how does one go about routing the
back of the frame out so that the lip is deeper?

It's a stacked frame and the inner frame is the one I'm thinking about.
Currently, it's a flat profile, about 1"deep and 2" wide, & the depth
from the lip edge to the top of the frame is only about 1/4". It's a medium
wood, not hard like oak, but not buttery soft, either. I'm wondering if
it's even possible to make a lip 5/8" wide on that, or if that 1/4" thick
lip part would be prone to splitting off.
 
If you have a table saw or access to one you can just set the blade depth the same height as the rabbit and run the moulding through until it is 5/8" deep. We have done this 5-6 times in the last few years to fix the same issue. The rabbit should be strong enough to avoid it splintering when cut on the saw, just be careful as to not push too hard on the rabbit after it is cut down.
 
HB multitool.jpg This is one tool that will do the job.
 
mik said:
View attachment 18595 This is one tool that will do the job.
Click to expand...



Yeah, if you want to waste an hour while it works its way thru the wood.
This thing would take forever!
Plus it would look ratty as you would be trying to make a freehand cut with it versus a table saw with a fence.

This is NOT the tool for your job!!:icon11:
 
framah said:
Yeah, if you want to waste an hour while it works its way thru the wood.
This thing would take forever!
Plus it would look ratty as you would be trying to make a freehand cut with it versus a table saw with a fence.

This is NOT the tool for your job!!:icon11:
Click to expand...

Sorry Framah, but I disagree!

If you do not own a table saw or router or are afraid of using either, this is the tool for you. If you cut flush to the rabit first then cut down to your first cut, you will have the job done in no time. If fact, you could probably have the entire frame done by the time you set up you table saw or router.

This tool has been a time saver for me, especially when the frame is already assembled.
 
The problem with removing the material with the table saw is that you are moving the moulding across the fence of the saw, and it can damage the surface of the moulding.

When I've had to do this, I first lined the fence with some tape to eliminate that chance of scraping against the outside edge of the frame.

You could cut the frame to the size you need first, then run it through the table saw before joining it. That will save you time of widening the rabbit of unneeded wood.
 
Table saw....easy work. Really.

THe other tools I would only use if you've have already joined the frame and even then I'd probably go buy a little router (cause I have a huge one that is difficult for me to handle.)
 
Thank heavens for estimating on the high side. This afternoon, I totted everything
up, and even with adding a fillet or routing a deeper frame lip, it'll still be right
where I estimated when they approved the job. So, yay on that one.

Planning to call tomorrow & suggest the fillet (hope hope...), but also offer table saw routing.
 
A table saw is the easiest and quickest way. Or you could make the frame up to fit the sight size, lay the canvas on top and pencil round the bits that won't fit. Often on out of square or bunchy cornered canvases there are localised areas that won't fit, so you only have to remove certain areas to get the thing in. I find the good old Dremel with a sanding drum great for this. It's a bit dusty and you have to hold the beast very firmly as one slip will take a chunk off the sight edge and ruin the lot. This is OK for small nibbles but hard work if you have to remove a lot of wood.
If you have access to a router that's the best, but you need to knock up a jig as a guide. It's not rocket surgery though.

This is lashed up using an odd bit of chipboard with various moulding scraps fixed to in to form a guide for the router. (Cut left to right) The most important thing in these operations is holding the work still. Take time to do that and it's a breeze.

arouterdemo001.jpg


Widening out some rails from an antique oak frame so I could get a sampler in it more easily. You could use this way to do a joined frame which you can't with a table saw. Does mean finishing off the corners with a sharp chisel though.
 
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