Looking for cutting/joining tips for PVC moulding

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Paul Cascio

Paul Cascio

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What's been your experience in cutting and joing PVC (or other synthetic) mouldings? Anyone using a chopper?

What problems have you had? What tricks have you learned?

Thanks
 
In cutting with a saw a blade with few teeth works better. Cut fast ( the slower you cut the more you melt the poly) and brush any slight burrs off with your thumb on the cut before they have a chance to cool and harden back up. My experience with quality poly is that it cuts and joins very nice. Miters are easy to get perfect because you can apply enough pressure if needed to flex the joints into perfect alignment.

I haven't chopped any for some time, but as I recall no problems there as long as you support the rabbit well.
 
The older style of poly from England chops very well as do some of the smaller profiles of the newer stuff from Korea. Larger ones tend to compress or even shatter in the chopper. There are saw blades made specifically for the purpose of cutting poly, but i've had good luck with the ones I use for cutting wood mouldings using a very fast cutting stroke.
I like the thicker gel type glue, reminds me of the stuff I use to put together plastic model airplanes as a kid. Good thing I didn't know how many brain cells I was killing with that stuff. I understand that the "super glues" work well, but I haven't tried them.
It underpins just fine, but I tend to use fewer v-nails and place them farther apart, and I don't stack them. Once the glue hardens, the joint, if done properly, is stronger than the rails and the v-nails are really superfluous.
 
1) Poly does not warp! Yeah!
2) Cuts nicely and joins well.
3) If glue runs on to finish it destroys it
4) If you drop it, it shatters or splinters
5) Some of the finishes scratch easily
6) Looks great, costs less than comparable wood.
7) Some of the stuff from China does not join well
 
Cut it with a chopper. You won't need the sander.

Use Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel Control for corners that are hard to tear apart with all your might. Or any super glue with "impact resistance" on the package. Or the 20 gram Gorilla Glue "Impact Tough" glue (but not their traditional glue). Those glues have rubber or something in them that is very resistant to shocks and bridges gaps very well. They are also gels which keeps the glue under control. Do not use runny glues, meh!

Dab drops of glue on one side, press the ends together hard with all your might on a table top for 30 to 60 seconds, then underpin. Those manual presses do wonders for your pecs, I've been getting compliments.

Practice on corner sample sized pieces until you start getting corners that make you sweat to tear apart, then go for it.

Those corners that break apart were simply made by misinformed framers or distributors who are confused, pure and simple.

I have to admit I use a lot of poly for my decor customers, and they're loving it especially for the mural sized pieces. There were a zillion new polys shown at WCAF and some (but not all) are pretty impressive with good texture, non-plastic looking surfaces, and awesome prices. Avoid those stupid old smooth plastic looking polys, meh.

Easy to join, very high yield, and NO TWISTED STICKS! OTOH, carpy shipping boxes.

Better get out of here before Jeff shows up.

Edit And yeah, there are different formulations of poly from different countries. The two rubberized glues I mentioned above will joint any of them. However, some of the super glues down and Lowes will not, so stick to the ones I mentioned for starters, then experiment if you wish.

Edit again. It is very important to tear apart some test corners to see how you're doing on glue application, and how close the glue is getting to the surface for the way you're applying it.
 
I would use a plastic blade in a saw rather than a chopper. PLastic blades usually have low teeth count and more heat insets so they don't get as hot and don't melt the plastic.
 
more_so, thanks for the tips on other glues to use. Always nice to have a back-up product when you "accidently" run out.

I find that if I get a little glue on the finish, a quick dab with a cloth will take the glue away without harming the finish. Just don't rub!

I sell quite a bit of poly moulding, especially to artist that have to ship their work to shows. They like because of price and weight.
 
Sorry to keep you waiting Paul. This month will be my best month yet and I am not invoicing the 800 piece order due March 11th until next month.
 
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