Looking for answers about static mounting!

[brian..k]

Questions I have;

1) Does static mounting provide a smooth mounted look for the ciba/ilfacrome photographs?

2) Does this process work WELL on large prints? (I have 2 images that are 21 x 57)

3) Does the thickness of the plexi matter? I have seen both answers posted.

4) As some have suggested (usualy by those that don't use this process) will the image separate from the backing do to loss of static?

5) If I am glazing the image with another sheet of plexi separated by 1/4" spacers am I going to have a problem with the glazing pulling the image up off the backing?

5b) If so can anything be done to prevent this?


As you answer my questions I will ask more!

I am looking for a good solid thread on this one as most previous posts on this subject have been filled with more speculation than solid info(though there has been some goods stuff scattered throughout the 30 or so old threads on this topic)

 

[brian..k]

6) will the use of spacers create problems with the look and or strength of the mount?

 

[nona powers]

I would recommend using an Artsaver or other method on the bottom to make sure the photo dosen't slip. I show how to do a static mount in my Solving Common Framing Class and twice I've had no static, or very little when I showed it. I have it against acrylic sheeting, a hole cut in the cover paper with a mat just over the edge of the photo. The static held in the middle enough to keep it in place, but when I lifted the mat, the photo shifted. In the afternoon, at another lecture, I lifted the mat and the static was very strong. Same town, weather stayed the same, but he static had changed a lot and I have no idea why. It looked good behind the mat and on the wall I do believe it would hold, but just to make sure, I use a strip on the bottom to make sure if the static gives up a little, the photo won't fall.

 

[Meghan MacMillan]

Originally posted by brian..k:
Questions I have;

Here are the best answers I can offer based on my experience thus far

1) Does static mounting provide a smooth mounted look for the ciba/ilfacrome photographs?

Yes

2) Does this process work WELL on large prints? (I have 2 images that are 21 x 57)

Yes. At a previous job we did a pair of huge panoramas thirty something x sixtysomething. They turned out great. (though I would recommend that anyone planning to do alot of these invest in a top of the line dust collection system!)

3) Does the thickness of the plexi matter? I have seen both answers posted.

I can't say. All I've ever used is 1/8" and haven't had any problem.

4) As some have suggested (usualy by those that don't use this process) will the image separate from the backing do to loss of static?

Well, to be quite honest I have moved away from that community and job so I don't know if the clients ever came back with any problems, but for the two years that I stayed on there we didn't have any returned.

5) If I am glazing the image with another sheet of plexi separated by 1/4" spacers am I going to have a problem with the glazing pulling the image up off the backing?

I've only ever used this method on matted pieces, and cutting away the paper from the acrylic just to the size of the image. So I don't know, but i would definitely worry about what you describe here.

5b) If so can anything be done to prevent this?

Maybe someone more acrylic/static savy knows. Would thicker spacers lessen the problem?

 

[preservator]

This process has been pioneered by the framing
community and the responses found here will
probably be the best informed. Nona's idea about
bottom support makes sense, especially with items
that will not have controlled climate and handling. One way to ensure that there is no static from the glazing in frout is to use Optium,
with its static dispersive coating. If the client
can afford it, their photo can also benefit from
its UV filtering and anti-reflective capacities.

Hugh

 

[brian..k]

Been gone for 4 days and saw that my post fell down the line a bit...Does anyone else have any insight into static mounting they could pass on? As yet I don't have enough info for me to procede with this concept.

 

[brian..k]

I was just digging through a Google of Static mounting and came accross one line that intrigued me..

It said to use nylon or wool to help increase the static charge in the plexi..

Has anyone done this before ?

 

[Rebecca]

Brian it's like those party tricks and high school science experiments where you rub balloons on your hair and stick 'em to the wall.

http://www.enchantedlearning.com/physics/Staticelectricity.shtml and http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_1/1.html

The problem with static mounts is that you have no control over the environment the piece is going into. When the humidity goes up, the static is reduced and the mount can fail. That's why you absolutely need some sort of secondary attachment - hinges, Mylar strips, window mats etc. When the humidity goes down again, you can recharge the plexi by rubbing the reverse with wool or silk, just like the balloon trick.

Ideally, some bright spark would figure out how to keep the charge constant with a small battery pack.

Rebecca

 

[Jim Miller]

Brian:

You want MORE answers? OK, here goes...

1) Does static mounting provide a smooth mounted look for the ciba/ilfacrome photographs?

Yes, that is one of the best features of the mount. Because no pressure is involved, there's no "orange peel effect".

2) Does this process work WELL on large prints? (I have 2 images that are 21 x 57)

Yes. Static works in any size mount. More area, more static charge.

3) Does the thickness of the plexi matter? I have seen both answers posted.

Yes. Thicker acrylic generally carries more static charge. And in large size you may need the structural stability of thicker sheet. I suggest you use 1/4" acrylic for your large prints.

4) As some have suggested (usualy by those that don't use this process) will the image separate from the backing do to loss of static?

The static charge comes and goes with atmospheric conditions; humidity is the only variable I know that affects static (think of getting zapped by touching a doorknob in a dry winter climate). If it diminishes to the point that it will no longer support the weight of the photo, then it will fail. For that reason it's wise to supplement the static mount with some mechanical help -- such as edges mounts or hinges.

5) If I am glazing the image with another sheet of plexi separated by 1/4" spacers am I going to have a problem with the glazing pulling the image up off the backing? 5b) If so can anything be done to prevent this?

Within 1/4" you could get the static charges working against each other, and that would be bad. More air gap would be better -- maybe 3/4". Optium Museum acrylic is coated and has static properties similar to glass. It has all the benefits of acrylic and it is downright pretty.