Liner or stacking measurement

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Cliff Wilson

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So, I've been doing a fair amount of stacking lately. (Also, just sold and wrapped my first hand-wrapped liner. Thanks Baer. Easy! ) My question is; How do you figure the outside moulding dimensions assuming you are doing the cutting?

I have been a bit paranoid, so I have measured the width of inside moulding sans lip; added that to the inner dimensions; written that down; then cut and joined the inside moulding and measured the result. (of course it's always the same, but it kind of slows me down not to do my cutting and joining at the same time.
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) Added 1/8" and cut. What do you do? In particular, do you add the 1/8"?
 
I always do direct measurements. Start with inner most frame/liner and work my way out. You don't need to join the inner frames to get an accurate measurement. Just measure the rails long point to long point and a 1/16th" allowance is usually good enough*...or am I missing your question?

*problematic with warped material.

Hand wrapped liners are one of the best upgrades you can make in a frame design.
 
Wally, you cut the inner frame/liner then measure the rail. Doh (slaps the side of his head.)

My 1/8" allowance allways seems to mean I have to "hold the inner in position" with offsets so the miters line up. Bugs me when they don't. The 1/16" should make that better. Is it enough for expansion/contraction or does that fact that it's wood in wood, thus moving in a consistant manner, make up for that?
 
I suppose if the density of the woods were radically different they would have a different expansion/contraction rate. It would take a pretty radical temperature/humidity change to really have a damaging effect on the frames. If it's a concern, put Tyvek on the back. I personally don't much see the point of preparing a frame for a cataclysmic event. Priorities will probably be elsewhere.
To center the liner you could use small intermittent mat shims just as long as you don't put any in or near the corners. Notice that with the hand wrapped liners the need for exact centering is moot.
 
when we do these we order the inner liner/frame/whatever first, cut it, then once cut to size we order the outer moulding. Takes a week longer but we know we're right. And for the price we charge for these we tell the customer it will take a tad longer. They're appreciative of our care and we don't screw up.

I'm lousy with math, can't figure out all those tolerances, etc and woudl rather be right than eat my profit on measuring or figuring out stuff incorrectly
 
I do it for a living, and that [make liner and then measure to order the frame] is how I do it...

yeah, yeah.. I know, we all do it for a living.... but it just sounded good. :D

And Cliff, when I know that exact measurement of the JOINED liner... then I only as for a 1/16" allowance.

But then I have 5 planes that are made to relief a to tight fit.... :D
 
Yes, my Record No. 077 bull-nosed rabbet plane has paid for itself many times over. Purchased in 1979 at Garrett Wade in NYC. Now there's a showroom where I could get stoopid with a charge card.

Cliff's question was working under the assumption that he was cutting from length.

With chop or CC's the measure and order scenario seems safest.
 
I want one of those bull-nosed thingies! I've been using the silly whining dremel tool! :rolleyes: :(

For CC, I would build inside, then order. For all the stacking I've been doing, I have been ordering length so I could control my results.

I "usually" cut all my chops, then sand them all, then join them all. For "stack" I would wait and go back to cutting after joining. I just wanted to stick to my pattern for "productivity" reasons. Measuring tip to tip after cutting inner moulding will do it. Thanks Wally.

Also, I was leaving too much expansion I think. Will cut back to 1/16"
 
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