Lineco Mounting Corners

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Anyone use the Lineco self adhesive corners. Also what is the differance between the L533-0034 1 1/4 and the full view 1 1/4 mounting corners.
 
These are nice quality corners. The full-view type has a large notch cut out of the front layer of the corner, so none of the corner is visible within the mat opening on pictures with narrow margins (therefore not otherwise allowing the entire corner to be hidden under the mat border).
:cool: Rick
 
I agree with Rick. The corners are neat and easy to use. I also like the Lineco mounting strips.
 
Love 'em! They're quick and easy.

One of the things I like best about the mounting corners is that they are easy for customers to understand. I can show them the corners and explain that 'This is how we will be mounting your piece'. They appreciate the point that there will be no adhesive on the artwork.

I enjoy these little one-minute tutorials. Educated customers are good for my business.

Kit
 
Also, remember when using them to allow a little extra space within the corners so the artwork won't buckle or ripple due to any expansion due to heat/humidity.
 
I have used the mounting strips for years.

Since we are on the topic, I have a question! Just recently I have had two customers complain about sagging om the center part of the prints. I have used the strips around the edges, two half strips on each side. The complaints have been specifically on large pieces, close to 30x40 sizes. Any suggestions?


Thanks,
Candy
 
Candy, hinge them.

I was using the corners and strips a fair amount due to the "no adhesive" story. It's a good one. But, I now use them only if the paper is VERY stiff. The art will maintain it's "flatness" much better with hinges. Gravity is ever present and working on that paper the whole time. You can't stop it. Use it. Hinge them.
 
Candy ;
When I do very large works with these aids I use the corners ( what ever size and shape)and the strips in the centers of the sides (always allowing some extra space as Mike suggest and also because the strips suggest this to prevent any adhesive contact .Maybe this combination will help your center sagging problem.
BUDDY
 
I have used a wider/longer and deeper strip of conservation paper on the center bottom of prints. Cut them from the folders the print comes in. When doing this I use the same thing on the sides and top, leaving expansion space on the sides and more expansion space on the top. This gives equal presssure (lack of a better word) when installing the print.
 
If memory serves me (laugh) Ron gave a detailed description of how he makes his out of 1 ply mat board. This way you can make them as long as you want. I'm thinking about trying this one on a piece 25x55 I'm going to work on this week.

The one problem I have with the strips that I don't have with the corners is that the strips are just thick enough that they make the art appear buckled because of a gap between the mat and art. This is only when the strip is really close to the mat bevel. If the strip is more than an inch from the mat bevel I haven't noticed it as much. Has anybody else noticed this?
 
I think it was Hugh Phibbs who described how to make simple rag strips for mounting works of art. I would not use 2 ply board as it may deboss the edge of the art paper and it isn't really needed. You can make some serviceable strips out of any heavier rag paper such as is used in some of the print envelopes. Just be careful that you actually have&nbspa rag envelope. Some of them aren't very "archival".

Sometimes you have to go with the hinging process if the art paper is too thin to hold its own against the pull of gravity regardless.

Framerguy
 
Jay, don't worry too much about your memory.

I've been making 1-ply rag strips for mounting, but I honestly don't remember if I ever talked about it - except is the most general terms - on The Grumble.

I always meant to.

I like the Lineco corners for photos and smaller prints, but avoid them on larger pieces for the reasons already mentioned.
 
I love wide mats but the wider mats don't make the art bigger. I'm refering to those mats that has an opening about 1/100" smaller than the image.

I'm quite certain you did.
 
Edge supports can be made from strips of paper
that are folded along their length. Thicker papers
can be used for larger items and thinner papers
for smaller,lighter ones. The strips should be
longer than the outer dimensions of the sheet and
the vertical strips should be cut at their folds
where the meet the upper and lower edges of the
sheet, so that the horizontal strips can pass
through them. This design allows the strips to
be secured at their ends (with linen tape), beyond the corners of the sheet ant that means that they can fit the sheet, snuggly, and the sheet can still expand, when relative humidity rises. This last point is extremely important. Corner and edge supports that are fixed to the back mat can cause the sheet to cockle, if they fit and if they are loose, the sheet can move out
of position. This is the basic strategy, but there
are many variations to meet the special needs of
different items.

Hugh
 
Hugh, re the paper strip system, have you had problems with sagging for larger/heavier pieces? Would Western paper (like an Arches) work better for these works? Thanks.

Rebecca
 
Thicker papers, such as high quality drawing or
print making papers that come on rolls, can be used with large items, which require more support. One can also cut tabs in the back side of the strip and fold them out onto the back mat, where they can be secured with linen tape tabs, for extra support.

Hugh
 
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