Lineco Archival Glue Spot


SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Jun 11, 2004
Edwardsburg, MI
OK, I finally got that triple opening light green fillet in each opening finished with the fillets joined, glued in, barrier tape applied, 1/8" acid free fom-cor underside supports glued and weighted. Even was able to take out a small grease spot with lighter fluid...

Somehow I managed to get a small speck of Lineco Archival waterbased glue on the front of the mat.

I took a scrap of the same board and tried to remove a sample stain with:

distilled water
lighter fluid
Isopropyl alcohol
Borco board cleaner
light sanding

Anyone have any other ideas...other than cutting a new mat, fillets, etc.???

Dave Makielski

PS I'll be your friend for life if you've got the solution.

Oh the messes we make!

I figured out how to get the glue spot out! It didn't work yesterday evidently because the glue was not 100% dry. After my post, I went back and tried my Mars white plastic eraser came out completely! But...

Now I have another problem. My last ditch effort of lightly sanding (and I do mean lightly) left a slight, but noticeable, discoloration on the board.

One of you gurus out there in cyberspace has got to have conquered this one...?

If I have to cut a new mat and fillets, etc. it probably was worth the trouble to discover such a simple solution to a somewhat common recurring problem (for me when I work too late anyway).

Any thoughts on minimizing the scarring?


Dave Makielski
How about lightly sanding the whole mount in the same direction. Sounds daft so might just work.
Now is the time Dave to try out what I've been telling you all along.

Whip out that really nice Countess Plus Pearl Neuar and wrap it all, fillets too... :D

cut a new everything...and you know that is the ONLY way to do it right.
Thanks all... I was out today and just signed on to see if any suggestions came in.

The board is a Crescent Select #9534 Martian. Smooth surface.

I thought about the old trick of covering blemishes by blemishing the whole thing, scares the beegeebeez out of me. I rarely charge extra for this kind of customized work... ;)

I looked at it tonight and it doesn't look as bad as it did on Saturday...mmm-mmm...maybe if I am really a good boy tonight and don't misbehave, it'll be even better tomorrow am.

OK, Baer, you're right...should've sold a wrapped mat...but would the glue have come out of the fabric??? NOT.

I didn't try the Smirnoff on the stain...that may have worked, but I hate to waste the stuff... :rolleyes:

I'll go home and do a taste test tonite...

Dave Makielski
No, just should quit and not frame after 10 pm. I'll try the moisture trick, but think I'll use distilled H2O instead and a bone burnisher. You haven't seen my nails. Ruffles have nothing on me!

The problem with doing a triple opening filleted mat is that it ends up being on your bench for so long. I'm still hand cutting the mats and gluing, weighting (and waiting to dry), taping,, gluing support panels (and waiting again). Being a one-man shop this project was on my fit-up bench for almost two days due to answering phones and waiting on customers, etc., etc. etc.

Maybe the problem was sniffing glue and eating McDonald's while working on it...

Dave Makielski

In case you haven't yet resolved this...

I'd try sanding the spot and then the entire mat. If the glue spot is standing above the surface of the mat, scrape or pick it off. Then use 220 grit sandpaper in circular motions.

I don't know about the Select mats, but this works great on solid color rag mats.
Thanks, Maria. The glue spot is actually gone. After it dried completely it amazingly came off with a plastic eraser.

After all this fuss, the sanded spot appears to have almost diappeared by itself after letting it set for about 4 days. I don't know if the small amount of distilled water I dampened it with relaxed the fibers enough for them to settle down or what, but I'm smiling.

I'm still amazed that the Mars plastic film eraser removed the small glue spot after it thoroughly dried. It had gone into the fibers. I'll need to experiment and see if it was a combination of blotting it lightly with distilled water, then letting it dry (I originally thought it had dried completely after about an hour) and then light sanding or what. If I get a chance to play around, I'll post what I find out.

Thanks again to all for your suggestions. Now I just have to see what the abraised spot looks like under UV glass. Sometimes things show up and sometimes things tend to know the routine.

Dave Makielski