Lessa’s first Grumble project:
Why bother showing a simple laminated poster you say?
Because there is a little twist and not everyone knows how.
So, this cute customer comes in and says, you do such nice work (good way to start), my friends love your work, my mom loves you, here’s a pile of posters, do what you do. How big can a guy’s head get - Careful! After I hint at what her posters given my usual treatment will cost, we decided to do the basic metal frame treatment. But wait I say, why don’t you do one real nice, I’ll surprise you, but we’ll keep the total price as low as we can. Ok, she replies and heads out the door. I chose “A Vase of Flower” poster by Edgar Gauguin. Hope he does'nt mind.
I have tried canvas transfers from others, but they are expensive and don’t look much better. I settle for the typical canvas textured lamination to foam board, but it dawns on me that it is a fragile surface that can damage easily. I decide to try some thing different. Hey, how about mounting it on an acid-free needlepoint board, it will be kind of like an oil on Masonite and won’t puncture easily. But, will it work? Yep, like a charm, and here’s the break down.
Because of the added thickness I turned my press up to 200* and let it warm up. You can do this in one step, but it’s safer to do it in two. I set the assembly into the press using the “Z” method to let it warm up a little (standard dry mounting technique). Don’t worry about neatly trimming the dry mount tissue. I set the timer for 8 minutes and bingo, looks great. I happen to have Seal’s canvas textured Print Guard – UV on hand, you know the kind that needs that expensive perforator from h ell. You can buy the pre-perforated which works just as well. Cut your lamination a little larger than the dry mount tissue, lightly perforate it in the horizontal and vertical direction, peal the release paper and carefully stick it down, being sure to keep most of the bubbles out. Turn the press up two 215* and set the assembly back in. Now here’s the most important part! Make sure you put that foam overlay on top of the assembly before pressing go, and try not to dry mount the foam to the art or the heating platen, OK? I don’t know why, it just won’t come out right if you don’t use the foam. Ok, now I set the set the timer for another 8 minutes and let her rip. Ding! She’s done. They assemble will be a little floppy, so set it aside to cool. Carefully set the assembly in your board/ glasscutter and score several times before cutting complexly through. If you want to get really tricky apply that brush stroke gel.
Frame Don Mar WM1950 chopped 26 ¾ x 31 ½
$20 x 12ft= $240
Mounting charge 25
Lamination charge 25
Fitting charge 22
Total $312
THE END!
Why bother showing a simple laminated poster you say?
Because there is a little twist and not everyone knows how.
So, this cute customer comes in and says, you do such nice work (good way to start), my friends love your work, my mom loves you, here’s a pile of posters, do what you do. How big can a guy’s head get - Careful! After I hint at what her posters given my usual treatment will cost, we decided to do the basic metal frame treatment. But wait I say, why don’t you do one real nice, I’ll surprise you, but we’ll keep the total price as low as we can. Ok, she replies and heads out the door. I chose “A Vase of Flower” poster by Edgar Gauguin. Hope he does'nt mind.
I have tried canvas transfers from others, but they are expensive and don’t look much better. I settle for the typical canvas textured lamination to foam board, but it dawns on me that it is a fragile surface that can damage easily. I decide to try some thing different. Hey, how about mounting it on an acid-free needlepoint board, it will be kind of like an oil on Masonite and won’t puncture easily. But, will it work? Yep, like a charm, and here’s the break down.
Because of the added thickness I turned my press up to 200* and let it warm up. You can do this in one step, but it’s safer to do it in two. I set the assembly into the press using the “Z” method to let it warm up a little (standard dry mounting technique). Don’t worry about neatly trimming the dry mount tissue. I set the timer for 8 minutes and bingo, looks great. I happen to have Seal’s canvas textured Print Guard – UV on hand, you know the kind that needs that expensive perforator from h ell. You can buy the pre-perforated which works just as well. Cut your lamination a little larger than the dry mount tissue, lightly perforate it in the horizontal and vertical direction, peal the release paper and carefully stick it down, being sure to keep most of the bubbles out. Turn the press up two 215* and set the assembly back in. Now here’s the most important part! Make sure you put that foam overlay on top of the assembly before pressing go, and try not to dry mount the foam to the art or the heating platen, OK? I don’t know why, it just won’t come out right if you don’t use the foam. Ok, now I set the set the timer for another 8 minutes and let her rip. Ding! She’s done. They assemble will be a little floppy, so set it aside to cool. Carefully set the assembly in your board/ glasscutter and score several times before cutting complexly through. If you want to get really tricky apply that brush stroke gel.
Frame Don Mar WM1950 chopped 26 ¾ x 31 ½
$20 x 12ft= $240
Mounting charge 25
Lamination charge 25
Fitting charge 22
Total $312
THE END!