Large poster that needs access
- Thread starter Alexander
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Use flexible tabs or turn buttons - no different to most ready-made frames.
If you still want to seal the back, you can, with tape, and sell them a roll for when they need to re-seal it.
If you still want to seal the back, you can, with tape, and sell them a roll for when they need to re-seal it.
How large is the poster? If you provide glass you may have some liability if the user is clumsy when changing the poster and cuts themselves. Handling large pieces of glass is not for the amateur. They may only access through the back but they may try to handle the glass, especially if they decide to clean it during a change. Go with acrylic.
The size is 120cmx50cm
Was thinking perhaps acrylic
They said they don't want a matboard but want it sandwiched between the glass and backing. I explained that wasn't recommended but they insist.
What type of backing would be best to keep it all rigid?
I'm not sure what turn buttons are.
Thanks for the response
Was thinking perhaps acrylic
They said they don't want a matboard but want it sandwiched between the glass and backing. I explained that wasn't recommended but they insist.
What type of backing would be best to keep it all rigid?
I'm not sure what turn buttons are.
Thanks for the response
How about mounting it and using spacers? As you've likely explained, a large posted can sag over time if just sandwiched between foam and glazing.
That's something like a Direct Contact Overlay. Acrylic would be better than glass and potentially less destructive to the art for several reasons. Acrylic resists dew point condensation, it is 20 times more shatter-resistant, and it weighs about half as much as glass.
However, if you do not provide some padding under such a large print, it may show sags or wrinkles over time.
You could just sandwich the print between two sheets of acrylic in a frame with turnbuttons.
If they are thinking that this arrangement will keep it flat (people tend to) then do warn them that it will likely have the opposite effect.
If you used 2" thick acrylic and backed it with concrete slab, this wouldn't prevent the poster going wavy if it decides to.
The customer wants to replicate some authentic posters. The thing is I see they were all done using this method and they are all rippling and sagging. And I have advised.
But what can you do
I may suggest the 2" acrylic with concrete slab next time
But what can you do
I may suggest the 2" acrylic with concrete slab next time
I love spring clips. Unfortunately the recent batch available in the UK has the tendency to break at the
screw hole. Sometimes they last weeks, sometimes they last minutes. Sometimes they don't break at all.
But you never can tell. I tried to find a different make. All the UK stock evidentially comes from the same
factory as whatever wholesaler I tried had the same symptoms. I found some on a US site and got some
and they are brilliant. The shipping/duty makes them a tad pricey so I use them sparingly.
I'll have a look into those spring clips, they look handy.
This may sound like a foolish/amateurish question (
) but here goes..... given the job insists on being sandwiched between glass and backing with no other way of hanging..... is it possible to t hinge from the back, loop over the top and hinge the poster in place, preventing it from slipping?
This may sound like a foolish/amateurish question (
) but here goes..... given the job insists on being sandwiched between glass and backing with no other way of hanging..... is it possible to t hinge from the back, loop over the top and hinge the poster in place, preventing it from slipping?I've never had that problemI love spring clips. Unfortunately the recent batch available in the UK has the tendency to break at the
screw hole. Sometimes they last weeks, sometimes they last minutes. Sometimes they don't break at all.
But you never can tell. I tried to find a different make. All the UK stock evidentially comes from the same
factory as whatever wholesaler I tried had the same symptoms. I found some on a US site and got some
and they are brilliant. The shipping/duty makes them a tad pricey so I use them sparingly.
Nikodeumus
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Yup, that is a hinge mounting technique that is not uncommon.I'll have a look into those spring clips, they look handy.
This may sound like a foolish/amateurish question (
Similar to mounting in a pass-through slit, or mounting to a cutout, for float mounting.
I don't remember what the proper term is called.
Someone SMERTer than I will give us the answer I'm sure.
I've used this technique.....
Use a spacer about 1"+ wide. I can be a simple painted piece of wood or a proprietary gold slip.
Hinge the poster to a board, slightly bigger than the poster (¾"?). The spacer/slip would be the
same size outer as the board. Here's the clever part: Run a ¼" strip of linen tape along the back
of the spacer to lift if slightly, thus avoiding crimping the poster edges. On a BIG poster you can add
loose supplementary hinges on the sides of the poster.
So the poster goes about ¼" under the spacer. Tape strip will be about ¼" away leaving a ¼" expansion gap.
I have a diagram somewhere.....
If you need the spacer to be 'blind' e.g. not showing beyond the sight edge then the only way with this is to
widen the rabbet. Not a problem if you are using a chunky moulding and you have table saw.
Use a spacer about 1"+ wide. I can be a simple painted piece of wood or a proprietary gold slip.
Hinge the poster to a board, slightly bigger than the poster (¾"?). The spacer/slip would be the
same size outer as the board. Here's the clever part: Run a ¼" strip of linen tape along the back
of the spacer to lift if slightly, thus avoiding crimping the poster edges. On a BIG poster you can add
loose supplementary hinges on the sides of the poster.
So the poster goes about ¼" under the spacer. Tape strip will be about ¼" away leaving a ¼" expansion gap.
I have a diagram somewhere.....
If you need the spacer to be 'blind' e.g. not showing beyond the sight edge then the only way with this is to
widen the rabbet. Not a problem if you are using a chunky moulding and you have table saw.
Looking forward to your diagram.I've used this technique.....
Use a spacer about 1"+ wide. I can be a simple painted piece of wood or a proprietary gold slip.
Hinge the poster to a board, slightly bigger than the poster (¾"?). The spacer/slip would be the
same size outer as the board. Here's the clever part: Run a ¼" strip of linen tape along the back
of the spacer to lift if slightly, thus avoiding crimping the poster edges. On a BIG poster you can add
loose supplementary hinges on the sides of the poster.
So the poster goes about ¼" under the spacer. Tape strip will be about ¼" away leaving a ¼" expansion gap.
I have a diagram somewhere.....
If you need the spacer to be 'blind' e.g. not showing beyond the sight edge then the only way with this is to
widen the rabbet. Not a problem if you are using a chunky moulding and you have table saw.
Nikodeumus
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Yes, please post a diagram or photos Prospero.
I'm having trouble visualizing the description, but it sounds intriguing.
I'm having trouble visualizing the description, but it sounds intriguing.
A bit crude, but you get the picture......
The gaps are exaggerated for clarity. The strip on top of the slip is only necessary if you have painted it
.
The gaps are exaggerated for clarity. The strip on top of the slip is only necessary if you have painted it
.