That's something like a Direct Contact Overlay. Acrylic would be better than glass and potentially less destructive to the art for several reasons. Acrylic resists dew point condensation, it is 20 times more shatter-resistant, and it weighs about half as much as glass.Was thinking perhaps acrylic
They said they don't want a matboard but want it sandwiched between the glass and backing. I explained that wasn't recommended but they insist.
You could just sandwich the print between two sheets of acrylic in a frame with turnbuttons.What type of backing would be best to keep it all rigid?
If they are thinking that this arrangement will keep it flat (people tend to) then do warn them that it will likely have the opposite effect.They said they don't want a matboard but want it sandwiched between the glass and backing. I explained that wasn't recommended but they insist.
I've had better luck with spring clips
I've never had that problemI love spring clips. Unfortunately the recent batch available in the UK has the tendency to break at the
screw hole. Sometimes they last weeks, sometimes they last minutes. Sometimes they don't break at all.
But you never can tell. I tried to find a different make. All the UK stock evidentially comes from the same
factory as whatever wholesaler I tried had the same symptoms. I found some on a US site and got some
and they are brilliant. The shipping/duty makes them a tad pricey so I use them sparingly.
Yup, that is a hinge mounting technique that is not uncommon.I'll have a look into those spring clips, they look handy.
This may sound like a foolish/amateurish question () but here goes..... given the job insists on being sandwiched between glass and backing with no other way of hanging..... is it possible to t hinge from the back, loop over the top and hinge the poster in place, preventing it from slipping?
Looking forward to your diagram.I've used this technique.....
Use a spacer about 1"+ wide. I can be a simple painted piece of wood or a proprietary gold slip.
Hinge the poster to a board, slightly bigger than the poster (¾"?). The spacer/slip would be the
same size outer as the board. Here's the clever part: Run a ¼" strip of linen tape along the back
of the spacer to lift if slightly, thus avoiding crimping the poster edges. On a BIG poster you can add
loose supplementary hinges on the sides of the poster.
So the poster goes about ¼" under the spacer. Tape strip will be about ¼" away leaving a ¼" expansion gap.
I have a diagram somewhere.....
If you need the spacer to be 'blind' e.g. not showing beyond the sight edge then the only way with this is to
widen the rabbet. Not a problem if you are using a chunky moulding and you have table saw.