Help Large Custom Framing 40x60 canvas-on-masonite

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servnhim

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A hometown photographer has asked me to assemble a 40x60 frame (from chops) and attach a printed canvas-on-masonite photo, complete with backing and hanging hardware. Due to the size and weight of the masonite photo, how would you fasten the photo to the frame? I'm thinking the typical framer points would not be "robust" enough to hold it well. Also, any ideas on finishing the back for a dust free professional look? I normally use heavy black paper backing...but don't have anything wide enough to use. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks
 
For the backing, you could run a line of ATG tape along one edge of a piece of backing paper and join a second piece.

The black seamed new larger piece wouldn't be too obvious and it would cover the back of the frame.
 
Artrageous said:
For the backing, you could run a line of ATG tape along one edge of a piece of backing paper and join a second piece.

The black seamed new larger piece wouldn't be too obvious and it would cover the back of the frame.
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Thanks! - good idea, that should work fine.

Any suggestions to make the masonite and frame a solid piece? Thanks for the ideas!
 
When you place the piece into the frame how much space is left between the back of the masonite board and the back edge of the frame?

You could using a fitting stapler to hold the piece in place. It's stronger then framers points. Even a brad gun would be better then those framers points.

Another choice could be offset clips. They come in many sizes and you could find one that holds the art package firmly in place. Although offset clips will leave a raised area in your dust cover.

offsetclips.jpg
 
Artrageous said:
You could using a fitting stapler to hold the piece in place. It's stronger then framers points. Even a brad gun would be better then those framers points.

Another choice could be offset clips. They come in many sizes and you could find one that holds the art package firmly in place. Although offset clips will leave a raised area in your dust cover.
Thanks for the ideas...might try the staples or brads. Hadn't thought of offset clips, that's a possibility for me as well.

You've been a big help - gives me some options!
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If you have a 1/2 in the back you can add a strainer, this will keep everything in and reinforce the stability of the over all frame.
 
I hope you're using a sturdy frame.

Mark's suggestion for piecing oversized dust covers works well. It's the way I handle
that, too. If it's really big, I put the dust cover on in two sections. If you have any
questions about doing that, I'm happy to give input.
 
I would be more worried about the frame....I understand from your post that you are not the one supplying the frame, merely join what he already has?

Make sure to inspect it carefully and make sure it is heavy/strong enough. Otherwise you will be the one with the problem...not your photographer.

I would take Randy's (RParrish) suggestion to heart and make sure you charge enough!
 
You might consider using screw eyes in the back of the frame inside the frame one set centered top and bottom
another set centered left and right, then thread wire through the eyes and torking in tight so that it sings a middle C note. not too tight.... just enough to take the pressure off the corners and hold the frame on the piece.
helps if the frame is thin.
we have done this on big and expensive pieces of art for museums and such to give extra bracing.
 
PEAVY said:
You might consider using screw eyes in the back of the frame inside the frame one set centered top and bottom
another set centered left and right, then thread wire through the eyes and torking in tight so that it sings a middle C note. not too tight.... just enough to take the pressure off the corners and hold the frame on the piece.
helps if the frame is thin.
we have done this on big and expensive pieces of art for museums and such to give extra bracing.
Click to expand...

I would not recommend this at all, your adding tension and over time the only thing that is going to torque is the framing. Again a strainer reinforces the framing and is a stabilizing force.
 
RParrish said:
I would not recommend this at all, your adding tension and over time the only thing that is going to torque is the framing. Again a strainer reinforces the framing and is a stabilizing force.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the dialog here - thanks!

The frame is sturdy, 4" wide about 2" tall, yes it does have a 1/2" rabbit. A problem I had today was trying to use v-nails after I glued and clamped it. The v-nails bent going into the frame - its made of MDF wood :( very hard. It crumbled when I removed the partially inserted v-nail, yuk.

I'm think of getting flat L-corner braces from a hardware store and screwing the corners with that for reinforcement. -Comments?

RE: using strainers, I like the idea, but curious how to attach to masonite (or would I?). The masonite is 1/8", so I have 3/8" remaining of the rabbit, not sure what kind of strainer to use?

Appreciate the help - glad I have a place to turn to for questions! Ya'll are great!

-Dennis
 
What type of underpinner and vnails are you using.

I join many frames that have mdf substrate. I use a Pistorius VN-a underpinner with Decor vnails for Pistorius machines. They are 1/2 hard nails, (not mdf vnails)

Do not try to stack or double up the nails. It will not work! The second nail just crumbles or pushes sideways and can come out the side of the frame.

If the profile is tall, I glue and vnail, then drill pilot holes and nail from the side and fill all holes accordingly.
 
Further to what Mark said: crank your pressure up, use hardwood nails, and give 'er h*ll.

Aside: I've stopped using softwood nails - doesn't matter what I'm joining, hardwood nails are better. Especially in plastic.
 
That's a heck of a moulding. Something like that is a bit beyond v-nails. MDF is HEAVY. I would put biscuit slots. Glue up all four corners in one go and throw a strap clamp around. Cinch it up tight and add triangles of ply screwed on the corners.

Instead of standard points, why not use long nails to hold the panel in the frame. They have a longer reach.
 
prospero said:
That's a heck of a moulding. Something like that is a bit beyond v-nails. MDF is HEAVY. I would put biscuit slots. Glue up all four corners in one go and throw a strap clamp around. Cinch it up tight and add triangles of ply screwed on the corners.

Instead of standard points, why not use long nails to hold the panel in the frame. They have a longer reach.
Click to expand...

I got 'r done!

I glued and clamped, then added flat L mending brackets to the corners. Pre-drilled the holes and used coarse cabinet screws so I wouldn't blow out the mdf. The canvas-masonite actually fit tight in the frame - maybe 1/16" gap around the rabbit. I used star points (glazing points) to hold the masonite tight into the frame...worked great. Finished it off with foam board and backing paper - I used the suggestion to use ATG to extend the size of my backing paper to cover the entire area...also worked great. I added an aluminum mounted hanging system so it would hang well on the wall and handle the weight.

Thank you all for your help and ideas - you really helped me complete this project...turned out very well, the customer was pleased!

Maybe I'll meet some of you at WCAF this weekend!
-Dennis
 
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