Laminated Map buckling

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LindaK

LindaK

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Joined
Jun 22, 2008
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30
Loc
Delaware
Hi, another newbie here.
I have a situation and could use some advice.

A customer brought in a laminated map. The framer took in the work and had the piece drymounted.

You could see the typical folds that come from folding a map still in the piece. But along the bottom, it looks like the lamination material somehow "buckled" in certain spots.

In addition to this, the foam board is bowed to the point that there is a bend in the upper left corner of the foam board.

Are either of the issues able to be fixed?

The customer is obviously not happy with us.

Also, what is the correct way to mount a laminated piece of work.

Thanks,
Linda
 
The warpage along the bottom could be due to the heat of a tacking iron. If this is the case then it was incorrectly mounted. heat, generally, should not be used when mounting a laminated piece. I would have used a spray adhesive with a cold/pressure mount instead. The weight of glass and the process of putting the piece into the frame, if it gets a frame should help with the warp of the foamboard. If it is not getting a frame it probably should have been put onto gator board.
 
Hmmm.... did the customer only want this laminated and mounted and not framed? I'm wondering if so, if it was left sitting on its edge and if so, the weight of the piece could've caused the pocket in the lamination? The corner can easily be the weak spot.

You may be able to mount that piece of board to something with more stiffness (perhaps with a spray adhesive) to help straighten it out, but there's nothing you can do for the bend in the foam that's gonna make it look much better. Same thing on the buckle in the lamination film.

I could be wrong, but if the customer didn't frame the piece, you can't be responsible for the behavior of the foam...but this should've been explained in a warning to her in the first place.

If it did these things and you framed it, then I'm stumped.
 
Linda, I like mounting laminated maps to Perfect Mount, or any other board that has positionable mounting film on it. Crescent, Bainbridge, and several other companies make versions of this. I prefer the PSX or the PS3X board (flat like matboard), back it with regular foam core, and then put a frame around it. I am leary of the foam boards with positionable mounting film on them as sometimes the film isn't as strongly attached, or the foam board is dented. Pretty hard to dent the PSX or PS3x.

The bond is strong, and you don't need heat. Just follow the directions - and be sure to read them before you start.

Another alternative is to send it to a placking company like Prolam or Colorplak. They can often mount them with their process.
 
The lamination could be a heat-activated film. If so, dry mounting might affect its adhesive. The reaction of plastic to the heat might also explain part of the warping.

For laminated maps, I like to use acrylic medium or gel, or Lascaux 360 contact adhesive, dried under weight overnight, and a backing of Gatorfoam or Coroplast. No heat, no hygroscopic material, no warping -- and you can put hangers on the back.
 
I specialized in the large laminated Thomas Bros maps and outfitted the Los Angeles store. No matter if the substrate was gator, cork, or foam, I'd apply 77 and throw it into our oversized press. Never was there an issue. The only issue I had was with reverse rolling it. The laminate would fracture. So careful to use a large, like 14" diameter sonotube, when reverse rolling any laminate.

As for the warping...have you considered mounting a piece of kraft paper on the back of the substrate to counter-act the warping?

Also...be sure to use spacers when fitting laminate with glass. Otherwise you get a pooling effect at each fitting brad/point where the pressure is applied.
 
Franchesca ...I too use Spray 77 or sometimes, like Jim said, the Lascaux adhesive.

Isn't 3M's Spray 77 illegal in California? I thought they were by now. They aren't here in Michigan.

One other thing to point out about mounting laminates ...if they were cold roller laminated there is usually a very light coat of silicon on the laminates to keep them from sticking to themselves while on the roll. You should wipe the surface with a clean soft cloth and maybe a little glass cleaner to clean this off no matter how you mount the article.
 
Thank you, everyone!
I appreciate all the advice.
 
Dave said:
Franchesca ...I too use Spray 77 or sometimes, like Jim said, the Lascaux adhesive.

Isn't 3M's Spray 77 illegal in California? I thought they were by now. They aren't here in Michigan.

One other thing to point out about mounting laminates ...if they were cold roller laminated there is usually a very light coat of silicon on the laminates to keep them from sticking to themselves while on the roll. You should wipe the surface with a clean soft cloth and maybe a little glass cleaner to clean this off no matter how you mount the article.
Click to expand...

I believe 77 is still legal. I can still get it from my local Ace Hardware...though it is more than United charges. And 3M has printed half the label in spanish so most of the hired framers here can read it. :vomit: I am guessing the CFC's are/were an issue right? Well I really don't care. I'd import it if need be. I don't buy into the global warming ####. Please understand that my last comment was not an invitation to open a political discussion. Just the rebel in me coming out.

Great suggestion of wiping it down. In addition, I've taken a sanding block to some that had a super strong, almost acrylic, laminate. Just to give the adhesive something to grab on to. In addition I'd spray both surfaces and let it tack up for 60 seconds or more before putting them together...especially when mounting to cork.

Franchesca
 
Franchesca said:
I believe 77 is still legal....I am guessing the CFC's are/were an issue right? Well I really don't care...
Click to expand...

There are two problems with spray adhesives in general, even if global warming is a non-issue for you.

1. The adhesive is inferior to other mounting adhesives commonly used in framing. The solvent-based adhesive deteriorates over time, and some of the chemical concoctions may cause permanent discoloration.

2. The toxic overspray requires "adquate ventilation" that is seldom found in a frame shop. That means the air flow must be directional, and strong enough to force the particulate and chemical-laden air into a specific and limited path, away from people and things that may be harmed by the overspray. Opening the doors and/or windows is not adequate ventilation, usually.

Spray adhesives serve important purposes, but they are often misused by picture framers.
 
Jim Miller said:
Spray adhesives serve important purposes, but they are often misused by picture framers.
Click to expand...

That would be me....
The few... very few times that I've used a spray adhesive, I ended up more sticky than the paper I was trying to mount.
 
But your manicurist loved you, Linda.

:D
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