Question Kraft paper vs. Lineco Acid free backing

Modigity

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Just wondering is there a reason to use one rather that the other to wrap the back of the frame. Is there an application where I shouldn't just use kraft paper or should I no be using it at all? Just wondering what you guys are using.
 
The purpose of a dust cover is, of course, to keep dust and insects out of the frame. The problem with Kraft paper is that it's low quality paper full of lignin. Over time it becomes brittle and will tear very easily when handled or the first time it hits a hook when being hung.

The Lineco paper is pH neutral and lignin-free, so it will remain very strong and able to do its job much longer than Kraft paper. And if you really want a super strong dustcover it's hard to beat Tyvek.
 
Never thought about tyvek I've wrapped houses in it when building them but never thought about using it framing. I've got rolls of that stuff all over the place I'll give it a try.
 
Just wondering is there a reason to use one rather that the other to wrap the back of the frame. Is there an application where I shouldn't just use kraft paper or should I no be using it at all? Just wondering what you guys are using.


I use black kraft paper. It lasts a lot longer than the regular kraft paper. I started using it about 15 years ago. The frame jobs brought back in to be re-matted or re-framed and with black kraft paper as dust covers were in very good shape.

And, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than Lineco :nuts: paper.
 
Just wondering is there a reason to use one rather that the other to wrap the back of the frame

what has been stated, PLUS, you will NOT be considered for an award if you use kraft on a PPFA piece(no matter how good the reast of it is)---you MUST use acid free stuff(even on the back sheet)
 
AS has been noted, the backing sheet will only work, if it is not punctured or coming loose. Lignin-free paper can be glued with PVA so it will not come loose and it should not degrade and puncuture. Tyvek can be also applied with PVA, thoough it will take longer to dry, but that will result in a layer that resists liquid water (not water vapor), dust, pests, etc, that should not puncture. Either can provide a good safe covering.


Hugh
 
I use black kraft paper. It lasts a lot longer than the regular kraft paper. I started using it about 15 years ago. The frame jobs brought back in to be re-matted or re-framed and with black kraft paper as dust covers were in very good shape.

And, it is a heck of a lot cheaper than Lineco :nuts: paper.

Years ago, I had some art framed (before I went into framing myself). The black dustcover they used left nice black spots on my painted walls.

I use lineco, except on the jobs where I use a flea market owner's frame; then I use brown kraft paper.
 
Lineco

I do not know this to be a fact but in my experience when I have opened a piece of art work that have 10 to 20 years of age some even less, even though the matting is acid free and the mounting board is rag or acid free foam core the brown paper seems to have discolored the foam core the edges of the mounting board and some time the print. I know the discoloration could be coming from the wooden frame but since I have seen the brownish spots on the inner parts of the mounting board and foam core. I an making an assumption it was caused be the only acidic item close to the spot which is the brown Kraft paper? Seem like on most things we frame to error on the side of caution is our approach.
 
J....
what has been stated, PLUS, you will NOT be considered for an award if you use kraft on a PPFA piece(no matter how good the reast of it is)---you MUST use acid free stuff(even on the back sheet)

Do the judges open up the frames to check the whole thing through and through? I would think that they would just to be sure that the whole package, not just the backing paper was "up to snuff".
 
Do the judges open up the frames to check the whole thing through and through? I would think that they would just to be sure that the whole package, not just the backing paper was "up to snuff".

The Print and Open Competition? No, but each entry must be accompanied by a framing description form listing all methods and materials used. I suppose there is some element of trust at work there.

The MCPF exam, on the other hand...
 
I believe the last time I read through the rules for the PPFA competition that kraft paper could be used. While it would only get you an acceptable mark using a better alternative should get you marked higher. Of course some of these competition come down really, really close in points so why would you chance using kraft paper. And No, they don't open entries up in this type of judging. (Now I understand that they do on testing)
 
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