Keyhole router

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Home Based Framer

Home Based Framer

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Oct 20, 2008
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Dela-where? Dover Delaware
Hi all,

We don't have room for a huge router, and really haven't needed it onenow. Does anyone know of a small router that is made to do the "keyhole" on the back? Where would we get one?

Also, any tips in case we use a keyhole on MDF?

Thanks Much!
Bonnie
 
Bonnie, there are plenty small trim routers that'll take a 1/4" key hole bit. The problem is that routers are not easy to use (or should I say "control"?). Your best bet unless you're an experienced user is an over arm router, a sort of pin router turned upside down. With practice, you could learn to use the router with just an edge guide, but you'd want a good bit of practice. Remember this: routers go left to the direction of travel. That is the rotation of the bit as it cuts makes the router go left 90 degrees to the direction you're routing. You set up the edge guide so that it inhibits the router's tendency to go left as you rout.

You can rout key holes with a fixed base router if you're skilled, but a small plunge router is best. There are plunge routers that are about as small as trim routers. Practice, practice. What you're trying to do isn't easy and could be dangerous to whatever you're routing if not to you. Never turn a router on unless you know exactly how you're going to control it. Most people can handle edge routing but what you want to do isn't edge routing.
 
We use a small Makita trim router with a keyhole bit- as Warren says, the key is control. I don't know why you might think that a router is something large or that you need a table/machine for infrequent use. You can hold this trimmer in the palm of one hand and store it in a small drawer.

http://www.tylertool.com/mak37lamtrim.html
No endorsement of this company, just a link for a picture.

We built a jig that sits on the piece being routed and allows the router to have a start/stop point so the length of the slot is controllable. It slides down the jig vertically to start and then pushes forward to make the slot. The trick is to either have a very steady hand taking out the router so you do not distort the slot, or better yet, turn it off, allow it to stop, then remove it.

If you are only routing a horizontal slot on the top of a piece, then the position is less critical. We route slots on the sides of bulletin boards we fabricate (4 of them, two on the top and two on the bottom) and it is critical for us to have the tops of all of the slots at the same point. The jig works great and is simple to make.

We don't use a plunge router as it is too large for this application.

Hangman Products sells a great Keyhole hit with an excellent bit and marker devices to allow for accurate positioning of the screw to hold the item being hung, plus some very cool double headed screws that are perfect for the application.

http://www.hangmanstore.com/Hangman-Keyhole-Hanger-Kit-with-Router-Bit-p/kh-10r.htm
 
I'll second that Makita, Rob. Great torque and plenty for a keyhole. And I always suggest turning it off in the bottom of the slot and then removing. Even someone who has done hundreds of them can trip up and make a second entry hole. :rolleyes: no names though.
 
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