Jersey - Trying something new

Sam Prittie

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Nov 20, 2024
Posts
3
Loc
Atlanta, GA
Business
Blick
Hello, new member, been reading for a bit. I've been in framing for a little over ten years. Lately, I've been doing a lot of needlepoint pieces, and recently accepted a project for a jersey. I have some struggles, and today I tried something new.

First off, can anyone offer some advice on how to use the 'Micro Stitch's tag guns? That punch in the H shaped plastic tags? Even if I'm only going through two pieces of very thin fabric, they constantly jam up, or the tag won't go all the way through. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

So, for this jersey, I used needle and thread to pin bunches of the fabric on the back to tighten the front, like ya do, but I had this fun thought of introducing needlepoint pins into the mix. Not only did I use them on the edges, hidden under the sleeves, to tuck back the armpits, but also in another way, that I was very pleased with.

As many Jerseys as I've done in my time, there is one part that I always hated: stitching the stretched jersey down to the matboard. Such a pain! Today, instead, I needlepoint pinned a smaller piece of AFB to the back of the jersey, then ATG'd that onto the matboard! It worked! Lifted the jersey a bit too, like a raised float.

I wondered if anyone else has ever done anything like that.

Also, I cut the expanded v-groove by hand, with a Dexter cutter. First time I've done that, so, good job, me.

Anyway, glad to be here!
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I don't like nor use micro-tagging guns, but yes I've used my nickel plated brass pins in conjunction with sew mounting fairly often. I cut a custom foamcore insert, then flip it around and put pins in at a very shallow angle on the backside, holding the fabric taught in places where it will decrease folds or baggage on the front. Afterwards, I sewmount the whole form through the seams to the backboard. I avoid pinning the sides because you can still see the heads at certain angles. Everything is in the back.
 
Update: I did fix the sleeves. Because they are held in place with pins, it was super easy to do.
 

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I don't like nor use micro-tagging guns, but yes I've used my nickel plated brass pins in conjunction with sew mounting fairly often. I cut a custom foamcore insert, then flip it around and put pins in at a very shallow angle on the backside, holding the fabric taught in places where it will decrease folds or baggage on the front. Afterwards, I sewmount the whole form through the seams to the backboard. I avoid pinning the sides because you can still see the heads at certain angles. Everything is in the back.
Nickel plated brass pins! Fancy! I redid the sleeves, and removed all the pins from the sides, so none are visible from the front.
 
I am afraid that those pins will leave holes and the jersey will get pulls/runs in the fabric that will be noticeable. I sew down, through the seams of the jersey.
I don't use a tagging gun either.

Personally, I am not a huge fan of such a tight presentation. I always leave the choice to the customer. Over half like the more loose look, the way a shirt is. Some want it tight which is when I use an insert as Mary Beth is describing.
 
Nickel plated brass pins! Fancy! I redid the sleeves, and removed all the pins from the sides, so none are visible from the front.
If a pin is going to become a part of the mount, I always use this material, as it is rustproof. I don't recommend stainless steel despite how common they are as they are only rust resistant. For the same reason, I am hesitant to use the nickel plated steel either.
 
I've seen tags all over the place in high-end clothing stores. 🤣
 
When you use tags, you don't want the front (or back) to be visible.
Tacking the back layer down, but not the front.
I do not use them either after a large job got rejected twice at a shop I used to work at.
I wasn't involved, but the customer did not like seeing the tags, so my coworker redid the project with painted tags, that were still visible.
Lost a customer that day in order to save an hour or so labor.

I personally prefer a loose fit, with sleeves looking a bit more like it was being worn.
I've never asked a customer about it, and never had a complaint.
I like Sam's second sleeve better than the first, but that folded style I am not a fan of.
Usually arms out for short sleeve, and arms down with the shoulder folded triangularly (shows of any shoulder emblem).
 
Sam- If you do want to use the Attach-EZ gun, you have to be sure to use the proper size fasteners. If they are too short they won't go all the way through, and if they are too long they won't hold tightly. There is also a technique of squeezing the trigger slowly, while rotating the gun slowly, which helps the fasteners go in completely without breaking. All should be done from the back.
Also, I hope you used some glue as well as the ATG to attach the FC behind the jersey onto the backing mat. ATG alone is guaranteed to fail eventually.
:cool: Rick
 
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