Question Jersey Framing

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Franny

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
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Oct 19, 2007
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Blasdell, NY
:confused:Jersey Framing
The way I frame a jersey is to sew it on to a fabric backboard and then I build up a double mat to recess the jersey away from the glass. I can put this design in either wood or metal without any issue.
I have a restaurant client that wants the jersey sewn to a backboard only (sans mats) and put into black metal. My standard metal is neilsen profile 117. Now I have seen in the past where there is a strip of matboard taped into the rabbet of the metal frame to make 2 grooves....one for the plexi (which I would be using for this project) and one for the backboard with the Jersey on it. This creates a "box" look out of the matboard. I have not been able to master this method at all. Does anyone have a method to this madness or is my moulding #117 not deep enough or ?????
 
Good concept, Paul, except that moulding's rabbet depth is listed as 3/8", which is way too shallow for a jersey. Personally, I think the 117 profile is too shallow as well, unless the thing is crammed up against the glazing.

In any case, spacer walls are easy to do in a wood frame, but IMHO are way more trouble than they are worth in a metal. One possibility might be to use profile 22 and some deep Framespace spacers- I'm not sure what the deepest ones are. That would be less labor but more materials.

Nielsen does have profile 100, which is deep and has an extra channel, but I find it tricky to use, and it's not cheap. Wood might be more cost effective.
:cool: Rick
 
Rick Granick said:
Good concept, Paul, except that moulding's rabbet depth is listed as 3/8", which is way too shallow for a jersey. Personally, I think the 117 profile is too shallow as well, unless the thing is crammed up against the glazing.In any case, spacer walls are easy to do in a wood frame, but IMHO are way more trouble than they are worth in a metal. One possibility might be to use profile 22 and some deep Framespace spacers- I'm not sure what the deepest ones are. That would be less labor but more materials.

Nielsen does have profile 100, which is deep and has an extra channel, but I find it tricky to use, and it's not cheap. Wood might be more cost effective.
:cool: Rick
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I figured they were going for the "bar look". I would prefer the N100 as well, but the cost (as compared to the N117) is quite a bit different.
 
pwalters said:
I figured they were going for the "bar look". I would prefer the N100 as well, but the cost (as compared to the N117) is quite a bit different.
Click to expand...

Deep shadowboxes can get relatively expensive, compared to ordinary rabbet-depth frames, but customers often disregard such realities of framing.

In April there will be an article about building shadowboxes using aluminum composite material (ACM) such as ePanel, Alucobond, or DiBond. The design shown, a 32"x40"x5" deep jersey frame consisting of two very inexpensive frames (one alum. sectional, one 3/4" wood), acrylic, a hanger, and hardware, has a COG of about $65 to $85. But the best part is that the frame opens and recloses, so the labor component is greatly reduced, since no mounting of the garment is required. It's a custom-DIY garment frame I can sell for under $200.

I'm working on another ACM shadowbox design that could have a COG as low as $50 and even simpler assembly, and it also opens/recloses. I will retail it for around $175, including custom matting and a matching background color.

This sort of design for a commercial customer, permanently closed instead of open/reclose, might sell in my shop for about $150, plus the labor to mount the jersey.
 
And they'll probably want plexi which is another issue itself to fit.
 
The easiest, fastest, and most permanent way to make a spacer for jersey framing is using FrameSpace 3, FrameSpace 3-1/8 or FrameSpace 5.

It grips onto the edge of the glass or acrylic and once in the frame becomes mechanically permanent. It also remains easily removable to clean or replace the glazing.

FrameSpace 3 makes 1/2 inch airspace and fits Single Strength Glass (like TruVue) FS3-1/8 same airspace , fits 1/8 inch acrylic. FrameSpace 5 makes 3/4 inch airspace and will fit SS Glass or 3/32 (0.093) inch thick acrylic.

Check it out here: http://www.frametek.com/HTML/FrameSpace/FrameSpace_2.html and also watch the short video on the home page.
 
Greg Fremstad said:
The easiest, fastest, and most permanent way to make a spacer for jersey framing is using FrameSpace 3, FrameSpace 3-1/8 or FrameSpace 5.

It grips onto the edge of the glass or acrylic and once in the frame becomes mechanically permanent. It also remains easily removable to clean or replace the glazing.

FrameSpace 3 makes 1/2 inch airspace and fits Single Strength Glass (like TruVue) FS3-1/8 same airspace , fits 1/8 inch acrylic. FrameSpace 5 makes 3/4 inch airspace and will fit SS Glass or 3/32 (0.093) inch thick acrylic.

Check it out here: http://www.frametek.com/HTML/FrameSpace/FrameSpace_2.html and also watch the short video on the home page.
Click to expand...

Of course since Frank is with the company that he says has the easiest, fastest and most permanent way to do this, I wanted to vouch for the fact that they really have a good product and I am in now way affiliated with them. Just in case anyone thought this was more commercial than testimonial. It's a good product to consider for this type of application as well.
 
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