Suggestion Japanese Hinging

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Kittyfaces

Kittyfaces

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Feb 23, 2004
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Kennebunk, Maine
I would like to use Japanese hinging more than I already do. I use them on all items that indisputably require it. Items with little value I use Lineco gummed tape and distilled water. For all other items in between... it depends. Items that are purely sentimental in value, like childrens art, I lean toward Lineco... things that are monetary, I lean toward hinges.

I would like to be a Japanese hinging machine, but my method is so inefficient. My work space is limited so when I have hinges drying under weight, I can't really work on anything else. I let each step dry under weight for 15-30 minutes. That's a lot of time to be doing non-money making busy work. I also have a paranoia that my bonds aren't as strong as I think they are.

Please share with me suggestions on how to be a more effiecient hinger.
 
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I try to do all my hinging at the end of the day. We let the paste dry under weight for 8 hours. Yep, takes time.
 
Check out microdot Nori application techniques and rapid drying with desiccated blotters. Really speeds up the process and helps limit some of the guess work in the drying time of the Nori. Hugh Phibbs has written articles on both I think.

Here's a discussion on mircodot from the archives http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?15758-micro-dot-paste-hinging&
 
Erin, could you get a paper drying rack and put the hinged work in it while drying? Even look into some metal horizontal drawers that you could put the artwork in while setting up the next one.

The 5 and !0 is closing, he has his paper racks (the ones that he sold mat board from) that I was eying for a similar purpose. Come in and look at them, instead of being flat they are tilted, but they would provide the support needed for the whole artwork. Just have to maybe tinker to get them to lay flat....
 
Also, where warranted, use edge strips or corner pockets. I now only use rice paper hinges when these methods won't work.

They are less invasive than even using rice or wheat starch hinges.
 
Here's a question I've been dying to ask. What are the risks (and I'm sure there are as I've never seen this recommended) of attaching a Japanese paper hinge to art with wheat starch paste, but then using Lineco gummed tape to adhere the hinge to the substrate. Before anyone jumps all over me, no I've never done it... but I'll admit that I think about it a lot!!! ;)

Bob... I was about to walk into the 5&10 right around the same time you wrote that post, but then decided against it. Hmmmm... I should take one last stroll through there anyway.
 
Kittyfaces said:
Here's a question I've been dying to ask. What are the risks (and I'm sure there are as I've never seen this recommended) of attaching a Japanese paper hinge to art with wheat starch paste, but then using Lineco gummed tape to adhere the hinge to the substrate. Before anyone jumps all over me, no I've never done it... but I'll admit that I think about it a lot!!! ;)

Bob... I was about to walk into the 5&10 right around the same time you wrote that post, but then decided against it. Hmmmm... I should take one last stroll through there anyway.
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Not a big deal, really. The material of the tape itself is strong and stable, as is the dextrose* adhesive. Now please don't take that to mean that it should ever be used directly on the artwork. It shouldn't.

* That's what the adhesive is, if I remember correctly.

Tip: Leave a small gap, about 1/8" or so, between the bottom edge of the cross piece and the top edge of the art.

Tip: Make the hing long enough so that it sticks out slightly above the top edge of the hinge. That way someone in the future can see where the hinge is, and be able to cut through the linen tape on either side. Then the existing hinges can be used again.
 
Washi hinges/gummed paper cross pieces

One can find gummed paper tape that has passed the Photo Activity Test, which is more than can be said for traditional cross pieces, so using a gummed paper tape for the cross pieces can be a rational means of saving time.
Since the tape's adhesive is so strong, one need only brush a little bit of moisture on the ends of the cross piece, going far enough in so that the moisture will catch the edges of the hinge. When moistened, the cross piece can be applied to the hinge and hinge and cross piece can be folded under a Mylar interleaving strip that has been weighted to remain in proper position. After an hour or so, the Mylar can be removed. This creates a strong but flexible support and if the art is to be removed, the cross piece can be released with a microspatula that is inserted at its center, unmoistened section. The cross piece can also be removed from the hinge, if needs be.



Hugh
 
Lineco does also make a licky-stick version of ricepaper which I find very useful for translucent artwork like papyrus which needs to be floated, often against a coloured background where heavier white tape will show through.
 
Kittyfaces said:
...What are the risks (and I'm sure there are as I've never seen this recommended) of attaching a Japanese paper hinge to art with wheat starch paste, but then using Lineco gummed tape to adhere the hinge to the substrate....
Click to expand...

I do it all the time using Lineco self-adhesive linen tape being sure to burnish the tape well after application.
 
artfolio said:
Lineco does also make a licky-stick version of ricepaper which I find very useful for translucent artwork like papyrus which needs to be floated, often against a coloured background where heavier white tape will show through.
Click to expand...
I have a roll of that, and I cant get it to stick to anything. Must be doing something wrong, or I got a bad roll. I follow the instructions to moisten entirely and hinge when sticky. Only it doesnt get sticky.
 
nikfrz said:
I have a roll of that, and I cant get it to stick to anything. Must be doing something wrong, or I got a bad roll. I follow the instructions to moisten entirely and hinge when sticky. Only it doesnt get sticky.
Click to expand...

I spoke to a Lineco rep at Don Mar Days and she said that there was a bad batch of that stuff. Might want to ring them up and see if they'll replace it...
 
I use a lot of Lineco gummed Hayaku hinging paper for everyday items. From my experience,

It can be difficult to see which side has the adhesive. I have often moistened the wrong side. :icon19:
If you have already torn it off the roll and got confused, the adhesive side is "shinier". But not by much!

I think “moisten”, rather than “moisten entirely”. There is only a very thin layer of adhesive, so it is easy to apply too much moisture and wipe (lick) all the adhesive off.

Give it a few minutes, preferably under weight, to bond or it will just fall off.

Clive.
 
The roll I have is at least 3 yrs old.

I'll try it again today, but I'm not hopeful. Wonder if I can apply my own rice starch to it? Anybody tried that?
 
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