Japanese cutout & hardware question

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FraminGal

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Apr 24, 2002
Posts
376
Location
Pittsfield, MA - The Berkshires
I have two questions:

1. I have just received three japanese cutout pieces. One of them is very delicate and thin. It is a whispy, grassy thing. How have you mounted these?

2. I just framed an oil painting in an old, 33x44 stacked frame. The frame is stacked forward of the front of the painting so that on the reverse there is a 1" difference between the back of the oil painting and the part of the frame I would attach the hanging hardware to. Would you use wire or is their some other hardware you know of. Wire would hold but I don't want the wire cutting the backboard and/or canvas.
 
1.Are the cutouts matted or just mounted on a backing? If the latter, you may be able to position them on the backing board, then put a piece of acrylic directly on top of the cutout. The static from the acrylic should be enough to hold fly-away paper in place. If they're to be matted, I'd go with the mylar but warn the customer that it can be shiny.

Cliff, Hugh, Jim - is there such a thing as non-glare mylar? If not, why not?

2.Build up the back of the frame with strainer stock and screw WallBuddies through the strainer into the frame. The dust cover will also cover the build-up; if you're not using one, paint the strainer black. (Easy for me to say - I'm not doing any of the work.)

Kit
 
1). I’ll probably get heat from saying this, but we have simply “sandwiched” these cut outs between two sheets of glass sealed with framer’s tape. We usually use a slab of uncut silk mat behind the sandwich. In our experience, these pieces, if they are hand colored, fade very quickly even under UV glazing.

2) What Kit said.
 
I've never seen "non-glare" mylar. Maybe someone else has?

The last one I did, I put the cutout inside a mylar package, then "Wrapped" the mylar around a mat "backing" for color, attached the mylar in the back, and put spaces and glass on. No "top mat. I elongated it to give it somewhat of a "scroll look."

Kept the cost down (a college student), but had a very nice look. The reflections actually gave it a pleasing effect.
 
There is a material called "silicone release
Mylar" which is less reflective, but its long-term
use in housing paper has not been explored. There
are thin plastic sheets made of acrylic or polycarbonate that could be used to make such a
sandwich. This technique has been used in England
to house Old Master drawings and has seemed to work well. These sheets have smooth surfaces, but
they should remain flat, limiting its reflective
potential. The major problem with polyester film
is its tendency to warp, causing reflections in
more than one direction.

Hugh
 
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