I've heard of PETA but not PETG

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The Great Gazoo

The Great Gazoo

True Grumbler
Joined
Sep 16, 2007
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86
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Nashua, NH
Howdy. Help!
I have a customer who has a piece of PETG which is like a thick acetate that she has painted with acrylic. She wants them (there's five) (28x36) without mats. I know I should use spacers, but how do I attach these things? They can't be mounted, because alot of the area she has left clear. MMMM....
Any takers?
 
Isn't it wonderful how artist's thunk these problems through? I would suggest some anti-gravity clips on the verso perimeter along with some pixie dust (the invisible kind)...OK...OK....really the only thing that comes to mind is a static mount to acrylic. It is available in opaque colors so you don't see the wall behind the frame.
Matting would alleviate many challenges with this project.
Good luck, let us know what you decide.
 
James,

PETG is a plastic usually known as Mylar and is used to make Pepsi/Coke bottles as well as our FrameSpace and EconoSpace. It will expand and contract with changes in temperature. If you pinch the sheets agianst the spacers they will buckle. (Like with spring clips or tight fitting points)

If these are "decorative art pieces" you could bond say a 8 inch long area under the rabbet just at the top center. This will support the weight. If you bond a longer strip or bond in two areas, the sheet will buckle as the sheet expands and contracts.

Can you get another piece to practice on? I'm just guessing at the 8 inch bond length. It my be too long or not long enough, but that's where I would start.

I like the anti-gravity clips that Wally suggested. I shoulda tried to sell those instead of Nori wheat starch paste packets.
 
I was kinda thinking that. Mabey a silicone glue to bond perhaps?
She wants backing, so it doesn't have to be see through. But what about it touching the glass?
 
Silicone would also be my choice too. Get another piece of that film to practice on.
If you put it against the glass you will likely get Newton Rings - visual abberations that look like rainbows or wet spots- not good. Use any spacer but don't use ANY pressure on the backing or it will buckle as it expands ond contracts with changes in temp.
 
Lascaux 360 could be used in a minimal perimeter attachment, is reversible, and is transparent when dry. Applied sparingly to the mount and allowed to cure, the lascaux will bond well with the Mylar substrate with minimal pressure.

I just bought a hundred rare earth magnets that are about as big around as a pencil eraser (remember those) and about 3/32" thick. They could provide for both the attachment and the spacer and they would probably fit up under the rabbet so you couldn't see them. Will have to play with this when I get to work.
 
If you were to use a metal backing and more than one magnet - it will buckle between the magnets as it expands and contracts.
 
I was thinking more of a magnet/art/fiber substrate/magnet approach. Is there a substrate that has the same dynamic response to climatic changes? Hadn't even thought of using a ferrous metal backing because of the reaction to all the salt air around here.

I had also thought of doing a slight edge capture with folded clear film. Tape it to the back of the mount board and wrap around edge with 2 hard creases capturing 1/4" of the perimeter. If the mount was slightly larger than the art, and the shims used were pinned through the sides to the mount, so there was no capture by the shim (thus no facial pressure), the piece could expand and contract with little resistance. Of course if it didn't have any inherent stiffness it could easily slump in the frame.
 
So James... What did you end up doing with these mylar sheets? We all want to know for future jobs.
 
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