is this a good idea for a double sided frame???

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Marion P

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Posts
233
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Maroochydore, Australia
HI all,

Question... I am framing a very old property deed and my client wants to see it from both sides, but he isn't concern if the back of the frame has a finished look as he is still going to hang it on the wall.

What I want to do with this frame is to double mat the deed so it looks the same front and back, glass the front as normal, but put acrylic on the back, and make the see thru acrylic the same size as the frame but drill small holes to screw or nail the acrylic to the back of the frame. Now my question is.. Is this a good idea?? Will the acrylic not make it as clear to see or make it weak and start cracking?

Not too sure how to attack this?
shrug.gif


Thanks
Marion
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Marion - is the frame deep enough to just "fit" the plexi into the back? Maybe with some wooden strips which could be nailed in from the inside to the inside? Use a "fitting tool" or nail pusher to fasten these nails.

Drilling holes in plexi can be fraught with problems and I think you could achieve a tighter seal with the above method. The wood strips would give a nice "finished" look - you could paint the strips and the back of the frame to match - just so it wouldn't look like the back of most frames.
 
Framer...

HI there,

excellent idea, I think the frame will be deep enough to do that! I have never used plexi before, so I will try anything once.
many thanks
Marion
 
I often reccomend plexi for the back of things like that. It makes for a lighter package.

Another option for two sided documents is to photocopy the back, and mount it on the dust cover. This is fine when the back is just information about the front. But, with antique papers, people want to see the real thing.
 
Marion, make friends with Acrylic.

Like a lot of framers, I avoided using it for many years. I was convinced that it would scratch by looking at it and the static would suck the fur off my dog from across the room.

A few years ago, I had a multi-frame project that demanded plastic glazing: large, valuable prints hanging in a very public place and requiring UV filtering. I bought a case of Cyro Acrylite OP-3 and fell in love with the stuff (though lugging a box of 4x8 sheets around the shop makes for a rough honeymoon.)

You can cut it with a Fletcher 3000, it won't scratch unless you scratch it and it is clearer than glass and with a slightly better UV filtration than Conservation glass.

Sorry to lecture, but I'm sure I'm not the only framer with an unwarranted prejudice against Acrylic and other plastic glazing.
 
Like Framar said but instead of wood strips I use black framespace.

The nails or staples are well hidden and if the framespace is seen from an angle it looks fine.
I also take advantage of the fact that the adhesive holds them in place while I fasten them and use just a bit of silicone as a just in case all else fails method of holding them.

Been doing it for years, tried the first one on myself 8 years ago and checked it before christmas and it is holding firm.

Hope this helped.
 
I know others have mentioned using Framespace to hold these two-sided packages in place and, I'm sorry, but I am skeptical.

I stopped using the adhesive-backed spacers a while ago and switched to the s-shaped spacers because I was finding adhesive failures even with the intended application - between the glass and the solid backing.

My own preference is strips of balsa, painted if need be, and pinned with one of those knuckle-buster fitting tools.

But, whatever works . . .

Just make sure the package is fitted so it is possible to dismantle it, in the event of glass breakage or the discovery of some phantom booger under the glass.
 
First, select a frame that's deep enough to accommodate the entire frame package.

If the customer wants to see the back of the document only occasionally, as if for reference and not for decorative purposes, Here's what I would do:

1. Make an encapsulation mount for the document.

2. Cut a window mats for both front and back, to cover the tape strips of the mount, but show the document's edges.

3. Fit the frame normally, except put a frame-sized sheet of clear film over the back mat, as rear glazing.

4. Before attaching the dust cover, cut a rectangular hole in it, to show the clear film mounted back of the document and some exposure of the back mat.

If you are concerned about mechanical damage to the document -- if clear film isn't durable enough for the intended purpose -- you can fit with acrylic under the dustcover.

If you need a more finished appearance on back, you could use the acrylic on the back, and then fitting points as usual to close up the assembly. Finally, cut a trim-mat to the perimeter size of the frame, with a window opening that shows the back mat, but covers the fitting points. That trim-mat serves as a dust cover, and would be considered similarly disposable.
 
If you need more durable than the dust cover, just cut a mat for the dust cover.

If you want to show the total package from the back, I like to use small 1/4 round or 45 degree angle purchased from a hobby shop that sells doll house stuff.
 
(1)I would encapsulate the deed in mylar.(2)You can also use mylar for the dust cover or (3) use mylar just on the opening area,(a)cut an opening in the dust cover, (b) adhere the dust cover to the frame and the mylar.

Follow Jim Millers instruction above. I can't believe it took me 8 minutes to post this.
 
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