Is Crepeline the best for this?

Finest Fabric

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
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connecticut
Hi all -

I am framing a very delicate antique Chinese charm. Its general construction is silk and it is worn and damaged in a few spots. I have advised the customer to consider not framing it and tucking it away some place but they want it framed. So...

The plan is to lay the charm on fabric over batting, with crepeline stretched over the piece to stabilize. The crepeline dulls the piece noticeably when laid over (see pic). Can anyone recommend a more "invisible" fabric?

Thanks,
Bryan
 

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This looks like it would be very lightweight. Is there any reason why a couple of strategically-placed threads wouldn't do the trick? You don't even have to sew through the item, since there are already open spaces.
 
Thanks guys -

Paul - it's very delicate. And some of the silk threads are detached and worn. But it is lightweight. Stabilitex/crepeline would at least support the piece evenly, which is why it was my first choice. But it can probably be sewn (with appropriate caveat given to the customer) - so I'll show both options.
 
Sewing creates localized stress at each point of attachment, and does not provide overall support. That would be OK for an item that has good structural integrity, but if it is weak, that kind of mounting might cause damage.

Stabiltex (polyester fine mesh fabric, aka Tetex) would probably be no more sheer than Crepeline (French silk organdy) on this item. An overlay of Melinex 516 would do the job, but its gloss would show reflections, especially if the item's texture distorts the clear film.

If the surface is not sticky or fugitive (if it would not easily rub off or transfer), then I would consider an acrylic overlay mount. Make a heavily-padded, fabric-covered backer board, position the items on it, and lay on the acrylic. Slight pressure would press the items down into the padded backer, thus keeping them in place.

Do not try this type of mount with glass unless you intend to provide an outer layer of glazing. The poor thermal properties of glass could form condensation readily.

The best overlay material is Museum Optium Acrylic. It is treated on both sides for abrasion-resistance, it filters 98% of UV light, and its optical coatings make it clearer than ordinary glass and almost invisible in proper lighting.
 
Jim -

Now why didn't I think of that? Duh. I've done a number of paper items this way recently. Definitely the way to go on this one - thanks -
 
I must have been asleep during Jim's class on this. (I wish I could have actually taken this class!)

First instinct is not to put, place, or press anything onto a delicate object, so I wouldn't have thought this was correct procedure. Obviously, it is and I'll use it from now on.

I guess if you can use Mylar, you can use Museum Acrylic.

Cathie
 
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