Instaliing the air system

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Mogulite

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Jul 26, 2006
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Reno, NV
I'm remodeling an existing store which I bought 2 months ago; Utilizing newly added space (600sf). I'm almost to the point of installing the air system. So far, I've done everything myself. Is it a fairly simple job to install an air system, or should I sub it out? Also, is there a manual that explains the best way to do it? If not, who would be the biggest help...Lowes, Harbor Freight, etc?

I want it to look professional, with no hose lying around as they are now, so I'd like to use a hard, ridgid tubing to the curling hose that hangs from the ceiling and to the wizard and underpinner. I'd like to stay away from copper as I have no experience with sweating the fitings.

Can anyone stear me in the right direction? Thanks, Steve
 
Depending on your climate / humidity etc, you might need to remove moisture from the air.

There are a number of inline 'trap' available to do this, and you can facillitate this by using galvanised pipe from the compressor, which aids in cooling the air quickly, then have a gooseneck up the wall some 20' or so from the compressor, and fit a moisture trap at the bottom, before the gooseneck.
Soimething like this . . .
...............................╔╗
Comp █══════╝ ╚══════Airhose
The gooseneck can be 6' or whatever height needed. The higher the better as compressor size grows. Small compressors struggling to keep up get hot, and produce more moisture from the air.

Moisture condensates, can't go up the gooseneck, falls into the moisture trap, which is drained as needed depending on weather conditions.

Not sure if you really need an elaborate setup in your situation (or indeed the avg frameshop), but this is how we used to set up clean air for automotive spray painting.

You can get those nice retractable airhose units that hang from the ceiling, and keep it all tidy.

Talk to a compressor / machinery specialty supplier near you, and tell them what you are looking for.
 
in addition to galv. pipe , you can also use CPVC (check local codes)(PVC is too weak). What I purchased at the lumber yard has a 600psi rating. Most single stage compressors operate in the 90-125psi range.

After over 10 years of use, not a single leak or break in the lines. And no rust in the lines.


I also "zoned" my system with ball valves so that if one zone developed a leak, the other zones could be used during repairs. I used the purple adhesive to confirm good glue joints even though it was not required by code.
 
I'd advise against pvc or cpvc. Even though cpvc will handle the pressure it can be brittle - I've seen a pressurized snap fitting shoot across the room after being bumped by a wayward stick of molding. More dangerous still is fire. If a pressurized plastic pipe is exposed to a minor fire it can melt, release air and, under some conditions, fan the flames into a major conflagration. I'd stick to iron pipe myself.

Water is a big concern with an air system. Try to pitch everything so that it can be easily drained, angle your fittings upward so they don't collect water and put oil & water filters wherever you can.

WW Graingers is a great source of pneumatic parts & info - their catalog has a nice overview of air system layout. (they're on the web but I can't figure out how to post a link on the new board)

Peter Bowe
Saline Picture Frame Co.
 
www.McMaster.com is another good online resource of industrial equipment. Both Grainger and McMaster will generally ship same day on orders placed as late as 6 PM, and have warehouses that serve probably 99% of the population with next day shipments.
 
While I know of many systems that have been "sucessfully" installed using some type of PVC, if you ever intend to have employees you might want to check with your state OSHA regulations. CALOSHA (California OSHA) prohibits the use of any type of PVC in an exposed pressurized air system as the pipe can potentially explode and the plastic becomes shrapnel. Yes, I have heard that many systems have been in place for years, but explain that to your workers comp carrier when an employee is injured.

There are new copper fittings that have flux and solder already in place so all you have to do is heat them and they sweat closed. They are easy to use and copper pipe is also easy to cut using a tubing cutter. There are also pipe hangers and fittings that allow you to neatly attach the pipe to the wall and hang from ceililngs.
 
Install the water trap AFTER about 25 ft of 1" High Pres air hose (just coil it up) - it costs a bit but allows the air to cool after it comes out of the compressor warmed up - and the water will separate easier.
 
Oh shoot - The question comes from Nevada - not sure that moisture would be the least of concern!
 
That's right, in Nevada we have humidifiers, rather than de-humidifiers! No mold, very little rust, fleas can't live here (yay!), potato chips stay crisp forever and clothes dry on the line in minutes. However, skin lotion is one of our biggest commodities, your sandwich will be dried out before you get it to the table, and I won't even talk about static! Flumb heaven!!

Right, Steve??
 
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