Suggestion Infinity & Beyond

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j Paul

j Paul

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Feb 23, 2004
Posts
7,299
Loc
Toledo,Ohio
I don't stock/use cup hangers but I needed a now solution for a hanger on an LJ102Cs Marque minni frame.
Infinity hanger to the rescue. Simply bent up one end and had the perfect hanger.

P1010331.jpg
 
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Not necessarily. If the frame is not too heavy, and you have sufficient slack in the wire, you should be fine. Don't ignore the part about the slack. The closer the wire is to horizontal, the lateral pull force increases drastically.
:cool: Rick
 
It also helps to predrill the holes on small ones like this. Pre-drilling helps prevent splitting. (with the right size screw) which knowing PJ he probably did.
But only time will telllll.

I have even predrilled & put glue in the hole let it soak in a little then put the screw in.
 
There's a really good reason the FACTS standard calls for the wire to depart the frame at an angle of at least 60 degrees from horizontal, with the intention of using two hanging points in the wall. The closer to vertical the wire departs the frame, the less stress is imposed on the frame.

The above photo shows the wire to be horizontal; departing perpendicular to the frame. That's the angle at which maximum stress is imposed on the frame. Yep, I'd bet that screw will eventually split the wood.

FWIW, corner samples for wood frames with a back-width of less than 5/8" have been removed from our displays. But when I occasionally have to deal with too-narrow moulding like that, which could happen when we re-work a customer's frame, I insist on a two-point hanging system. My preference is for WallBuddies, MagicMarkers, Beehive, or some other non-wire, multi-screw attachment to the frame, especially if it reinforces the upper corners.

If a wire is necessary for whatever reason, we follow the FACTS standard. And in this particular case, if it absolutely has to have a wire, I'd use Super Steel 4-hole hangers and double-wrap the wire ends through the loops.

No matter what sort of hanging system is used, and no matter what kind of wood frame, pre-drilling is always recommended.
 
Jim Miller said:
There's a really good reason the FACTS standard calls for the wire to depart the frame at an angle of at least 60 degrees from horizontal, with the intention of using two hanging points in the wall. The closer to vertical the wire departs the frame, the less stress is imposed on the frame.

The above photo shows the wire to be horizontal; departing perpendicular to the frame. That's the angle at which maximum stress is imposed on the frame. Yep, I'd bet that screw will eventually split the wood.
Click to expand...

Just so there is no confusion on the tip/photo I posted.

You are looking at a close up photo of the infinity hanger. The hole was predrilled and glue was also put in the hole. The angle of the wire in this photo is irrelevant as it is not shown hanging. I always leave enough slack in the wire for two hangers. As a matter of fact I draw it out on the back of the frame with measurements given as to how far down from top of frame and how far apart from center they are to place the hooks on the wall. I attach 2 courtesy hooks to the package and go over this information with them on delivery.

The mini frames used on an appropriate sized piece of artwork do not weigh that much to begin with. My suggestion was for using an infinity hanger in place of a screw eye. I don't believe that using this hanger has any less chance of failure than using a screw eye, and it has the advantage of fitting closer to the wall and makes for one less item I have to stock. As always do what you think best and use, or not at your own discretion.
 
J Paul, I don't like screw eyes either. They make the wire stand up too high and add a lateral torsion stress to the frame. (just made that up, sounds good though didn't it? :) ) The wire looks slack enough as it can be seen raising up off the backing paper.

My comment was that the screw was very close to the inner lip of the moulding. A curse of the mini- petite elite, thinasheck moulding that some customers really like.

have you heard of the DITH method ;) (can of worms posted here.... )
 
j Paul said:
I always leave enough slack in the wire for two hangers. As a matter of fact I draw it out on the back of the frame with measurements given as to how far down from top of frame and how far apart from center they are to place the hooks on the wall. I attach 2 courtesy hooks to the package and go over this information with them on delivery.
Click to expand...

That's an excellent idea. Similarly, I provide a hanging template when using two-point hanging methods. It also serves to protect the glass during transportation.

These are the kinds of things that cost very little to do, but that customers really appreciate. It's value-added service.
:thumbsup: Rick
 
For those narrow frames, we've used Flangers hangers for years. Those really help me sleep at night.
 
Put me on the Flanger boat too. I am not a fan of Wall Buddies, they scratch the walls and the hook and nail that comes with them are krap. I like the concept but wall buddies won't even work for the smallest of frame mouldings. Typically the pictures are so small weight or stress is not an issue.

I have also hung picture right off the holes on a Flanger with no wire too.

I think the Infinity hanger was just fine. I have on occasion used them like this as well.
 
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