Industrial PRO Glue -- What do you use?

Create a Post
G

gatorman

Grumbler in Training
Joined
May 8, 2010
Posts
9
I am making paintings and mounting prints on Dibond (a 3mm thin yet extremely rigid substrate made of a poly composite sandwiched by aluminum). I know that companies that make face-mounted plexiglass prints or metal prints use an "industrial glue" to affix a floating mount to the back of the artwork. I called a few of these companies and one shared that they use "industrial glue" but would not elaborate any further. Does anyone know what brand/name of industrial glue is used? Or, what have you used?

The best glue I can come up with is "GOOP" or a super strength glue at my local hardware store. These seem functional, but I rather use a more permanent and long-term tested glue for my artwork. I would like to know what "industrial glue" the pros use.

Thank you.
 
Jeff,

Thank you for the link. However, I obviously did a bad job wording my question. I have ansolutely no problem with mounting my photographic prints or canvas ON the DiBond (this is what the link you sent me is about). Actually, when it comes to fine art painting, I have no need to mount canvas on DiBond because it is redundnant -- I can paint directly on Dibond.

What I really would like to find out is what type of industrial grade adhesive do companies like plexi-face mounters or direct-to-metal dye sub printers use when they permanently affix the WALL MOUNTING bars and hardware BEHIND the Dibond (backside).

Here is a photo of such floating mounting bars installed by a company called Tropicolor: http://www.tropicolor.com/Plexi_pics/ours02.jpg

Their description states: "Meticulous multistep finish using high quality CLEAR industrial strength glue that costs much more than marine glue."

I would greatly appreciate knowing what "industrial" glue they are referring to ... Any brands, names, sources would be greatly appreciated. The security (adhesion) of the brackets/mounting hardware in back of the Dibond is absolutely important to me. I would hate to have a client contact me years from now to let me know the Dibond separated from the wall mount hardware.

Once again, thank you. I appreciate all replies.
 
Wow Jeff and Finest ... Very Cool site. Thank you.

But, what would you consider the back of Dibond? The outer layers of DiBond may be aluminum but they are stove-lacquered (painted). So, would I still take the THIS-THAT's suggestion for METAL (DiBond, even if it comes stove-laquered white) to METAL (Aluminum mounting bars)???

If you can think of a better THIS designation then please let me know. I am not sure what the white Dibond would be defined as.

Also, as long as I have your kind and expert attention, what is the real reason why one would use aluminum bars as support brackets? Is it because WOOD will expand and contract with tempature differences and cause an issue with warping the Dibond and/or inhibiting the fusion (glue)?

Thanks again
 
The standoffs being metal give it a more finished look. Also assures it can be used outdoors without warpage that would occur with wood. Since Diebond is very lightweight you can use traditional 2 par Epoxy. A very good solution would be to make strether bars from length stock which would be 4 sided. Epoxy the strainer to the back (only for indoor use) with the raised lip edge of the stretcher facing the wall so the flat side is against the Diebond. Now you can attach D-Ring hangers with screws to the strainer and string wire between them.

As far as your This to That search, the white finish is Baked Enamel.
 
Great tips Jeff ... Ah, baked enamel ... thank you. :-)

(Update) ... Unfortunately, the THIS-THAT website does not have Baked Enamel as a drop down selection. Any suggestions?
 
The most elegant supports I have come across (and just came from Europe where I saw many) - are aluminum tubing secured with VHB tape. (3m)

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-vhb-tapes-x0kvxbgg7c.html


They use it to hold truck bodies together! And you can get 100% coverage of the substrate as it is a tape. A thicker tape will allow for expansion and contraction and variences in thickness between the bars and diebond.

You could also use wood strainer material but I would prime/seal it first.
 
Wow, great tip, Rob. "May be used instead of mechanical fasteners for various permanent mounting applications." -- On a tape form ... YEAH! I will order one from my supplier. I am sure it will come in handy with this or other appications.

Thanks.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top