In need of a basic hinging trick

Sherry Lee

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This could easily fall into the "dumb question" category, but I'm determined to fix my problem.

Currently I hinge top mats to the substrate by butting the two pieces together, apply the linen tape evenly between the two & pressurize it.

When I "close the book" I ALWAYS have 'exposed' hinging tape....the part that is folded down the middle. It 'extrudes' and I don't want that! It's sticky!!

I'm sending for the brigades!

What can I do to alleviate this? I've tried elevating one side or the other and that hasn't helped.
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Rozmataz

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Sherry,

That is a question I have pondered as well. I don't have the answer - but hope someone else does!!

Roz
 

Ron Eggers

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Sherry, maybe this what you've already tried (elevating one end or the other?) but . . .

If you have a double mat and a single, 4-ply backing, you need the front of the backing and the back of the bottom mat to be flush to one-another and butted tightly before booking the two together.

Usually this involves placing another piece of 4-ply under the backing before applying the tape.

If you do this, I don't see how there could be any exposed linen tape when you're done.

As a last-resort, you could try using the moisture activated linen tape instead of the pressure sensitive. When it dries, it's not sticky any more.
 

smitten

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As you build all the joined pieces they all have to be at the same height as the piece they are joining to.

When you book hinge the mat to the backing put another piece of the same backing under the mat before you stick the tape to the backing, line up the edges and burnish the tape to the backing. I actually prefer the opposite. Apply the tape to the backing (thus avoiding the accidental tape contact with the art) slide the face down mat on a matching bit of the backing under the tape and burnish.
 

smitten

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beat me by 8 min.
 

Bob Doyle

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oh no please help me because I may be doing something wrong

I put the tape on the fome core first, flip it upside down so that the tape is sticky side up. Then I put the top mat onto it. I don't need to "build up" the two surfaces because they are both laying flat on the tabletop.

Is this what you are asking or is your question about a different technique?
 

Ron Eggers

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Bob, some (not me, of course) would say that what you're doing wrong is using fome core for your backing.

Otherwise, it sounds like a reasonable way to handle any thickness discrepancy between the mat and backing when booking the two together.
 

Bob Doyle

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Thanks for pointing that out Ron. (Mike where is the egg on my face emoticon? never mind found it!)
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I would have posted earlier but I need to wait 20 more minutes until your post hits my computer! (tired old jest about the grumbler clock! must be posting from the kitchen, then from the living room because no two clocks in my house are set for the same time.)

BTW true story, I went to observe at an Elementary school. The "time keeper" didn't have a watch! He took the time from the office clock then walked from room to room setting the clocks to that time!
 

Sherry Lee

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Oh, these threads.......always raising more issues! Good ones though.

I DO even my two 'book' sides....adding elevation to one side with matboards if needed. I put the self-adhesive tape on, burnish it and every time I 'close' the book, there's the middle of the tape (where it's bent)....sticky as ever! So... Ron, I think that if I can't get this problem fixed by technique, I will have to change to the gummed tape.

The next issue raised is Ron's comment to Bob re: material used for backing. I've seen it done both ways and want to 'hear' how others do this, so I'm starting it on another thread. Good question to discuss!!
 

nona powers

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The reason a four ply board is used as the mount or backing board, mount meaning hinged, not glued down, is because as framers we are providing a protective housing for art so it can be handled without the art having to be removed from it's mount in case the art has to be unframed for some reason. There is a full four ply board in front and a full four ply board in back sized to be at least an inch away from the edges of the art.

The back or mount board would be taped to the very bottom mat with linen tape, the other mats would be attached to the top of that. It’s important that the mats be attached to each other so the mount or hinge would not be disturbed if the art had to be handled for some reason.

Foam board is meant to be a filler board, not a mount board. Because I am a retail framer, if I had to do a piece that the customer did not want a protective housing for, I might use an archival type foamboard for the backing, but it would only be to provide some protection when I felt it was necessary. It would not be the way I would do a normal preservation framing job and according to the FACTS Guidelines it would not be framing to the standards of the day for preservation framing. www.artfacts.org, see FRM-2000
 

Bob Doyle

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Originally posted by Hawickman:
If your tape is self-adhesive then apply a touch of talcum powder to the exposed fold. Rub it along and then blow or dust it off. Easy!
is your talcum acid free?
shrug.gif
Buffered?
shrug.gif
 

Baer Charlton

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Talc 8.5 in saturate condition. 4.2 after babies bum malfunction. Or maybe it IS function....

Ok Ron, where is the emoticon for "It's late, I've had enough and I now want to go throw darts at the bar because it's Friday night"?

baer
 

Ron Eggers

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Sherry, here's something else for you to worry about.

If you're really getting some exposed lined tape protruding after you book the mat and backing together, it would seem like it should be easy for the mat to shift position.

I'd be more concerned about that than the stickiness.

You could always do what we did in the good old days: Just ATG the mat to the backing or right on the print.

(Do NOT try this at home!!)
 

Baer Charlton

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Ron, Shut UP NOW! Next thing we know, you're going to start spilling those beans about the brown library paste to adhear the photos to the corrigated backing. or the White glue drops to attach the edges to the mat, and then th

<font size=1>[Edited by Grand Poobah of Framing Secrets 09-24-04 19:37:23Z]</font>

baer
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Sherry Lee

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Ron: I understand your concern.......
"If you're really getting some exposed lined tape protruding after you book the mat and backing together, it would seem like it should be easy for the mat to shift position."

I've studied that potential affect, but it hasn't been a problem thus far.

I'm going to try diffrent elevation techniques and see what a gain from that. So far it sounds like the best avenue. If that doesn't do it, I'm changing tape!
 

Hawickman

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Sherry, trust me, I am serious about the talc method for the exposed self adhesive tape fold. Having had trouble with the adhesive strength of the newer version of the gummed linen tape that we had used for years ,we have just completed an order for 76 mounts - 21 1/2" x 15 1/2" - 6 sheet thickness (4ply) mounts and similar hinged backs.
We dusted the hinge edges, in batches of 10, and sent them down to our client in London. His verdict PERFECT. Which means that he has not noticed any change in the tape.
These mounts are to protect O.M. etchings will be stored by our client in Solandar boxes - not framed - and handled by prospective purchasers. They cannot afford to be anything else but PERFECT
 

preservator

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Water-activated linen tape, wetted with hot water,
is the best means of making spines for window mats. It will maintain its hold for decades, without changing, while pressure-senitive tape
may oxidize and become brittle, in time. If the
spine gives up its hold, the window will be loose
when the mat comes out of the frame and it can
collide with and injure the item that was matted.

Hugh
 

preservator

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Also, as Ron explained, the surfaces of the back
of the window and the front of the back mat must
be coplanar, when the spine is applied, to ensure
that the window is safely and securely bonded to
the back mat.

Hugh
 

Art On Canvas

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Thank you for yet another new framing word:

"2 entries found for coplanar.
co·pla·nar ( P ) Pronunciation Key (k-plnr)
adj.

Lying or occurring in the same plane. Used of points, lines, or figures."

I loved your old posts with desiccate, too:
"7 entries found for desiccate.
des·ic·cate ( P ) Pronunciation Key (ds-kt)
v. des·ic·cat·ed, des·ic·cat·ing, des·ic·cates
v. tr.

1. To dry out thoroughly.
2. To preserve (foods) by removing the moisture. See Synonyms at dry.
3. To make dry, dull, or lifeless."

4. Les broke the Unseal jar and desiccated himself
 

Sherry Lee

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I'm extremely happy with this wealth of information! I will finish up this batch of self-adhesive linen tape (a la talc) and move on to the water-activated tape....for more than one reason as Ron & Hugh pointed out.

Hugh......why HOT water? ?acts faster ?dries faster?

ROZ - I bet you are glad to get this as well!

Thank you all for the advice.......even from great Scotland!
 

Sherry Lee

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ROZ!! & others that might be interested:

I have set up my lab and entered into my scientific experimentation lab mode, coming up with results that I am happy with........

Instead of butting the two edges together, I overlapped them about 1/16th inch. The top mat should overlap on top of the bottom piece. I then applied the hinging tape (still have adhesive on hand) and lightly rubbed it into place. Then I closed the project and raised it so that the bottom is on a flat surface and checked to be sure the bottom edges are aligned ("coplanation"). Once completed, I put the piece down and carefully apply pressure over the taped edge to assure fixation. The same can be done with the gummed tape - just gotta move fast.

This worked GREAT - absolutely NO tape herniates when the two pieces are closed!

I put the talc back in the nursery!...yeah, right!
faintthud.gif
 

Rozmataz

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Sherry,

Thanks for the update!! That is a great solution - I'll have to visit the laboratory myself!!

Happy Hinging!

Roz
 
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