Question I'm so confused!

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AnneL

AnneL

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
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Jul 11, 2001
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Wautoma, WI USA
I've read through a bunch of different threads on here (including parts of the one that went down in flames) and I'm still not sure what to do. Gary printed a image on canvas for a customer and now I have the job of framing it but I'm not sure how to mount it. It's Epson premium canvas matte, Epson inks, finished size 11x14 but the actual piece of canvas is bigger.

I have the following options available:


  • drymounting in a mechanical press with either colormount, archivalmount, or fusion, probably on an 8ply board
  • or pressure mounting with perfect mount.
Would any of these be a good option? I don't have experience or equipment for traditional canvas stretching. About the closest I come it stretching needlework by lacing or pinning (is that possibly another option?) I do have extra copies to practice on if necessary.

Thanks for the help.
 
If you don't have to be archival, either of those methods is probably fine, although you might use gatorboard for the extra rigidity.

As for conventional canvas stretching, you really don't need much in the way of equipment. A good heavy duty staple gun and a pair of canvas-stretching pliers. And the strainer bar. See if Gary can print you out some canvases you can practice on.
 
Heat will not harm it at all. I use LaminAll at 220 for 2-3 minutes and do hundreds of them.
 
Why would you not stretch it? That's the way I sell em. I have no opinion as to the two methods you suggest because I've never used them. Not sure why I would. Stretching is easy and there is no need to be intimidated by it.

Good luck.
 
Either method will be fine as long as the print has not been coated yet. If it has been, it is suggested to let is dry for 3-4 days before heat mounting.
 
Actually, it was printed in December so it's dry. What I'm looking for is a method that uses materials I have on hand. It's not coated. I don't have gatorboard in stock; I mount our regular photos on either 8 or 4 ply rag so I have that in stock.

As far as stretching, I have done it a few times when a customer brought a stretched piece that needed redoing. It's not my idea of easy and I don't have the hand strength for it. Besides, this is a one off so I'm not anticipating doing more of these on a regular basis. Add to that, the frame they want doesn't have the depth for a stretch job plus spacers plus glass.

So, which dry mount tissue would be the best option?
 
I may look at drymounting one. When I look at posters mounted 5 or 6 years ago get brittle and bubble up in places I can't imagine it holding a canvas for long. Maybe I'll be surprised?
 
Anne-

I have (2) 16 x 20 "GORGEOUS" giclee portraits mounted on perfect mount and under weight as I type this. If you go this route, I highly recommend putting weight on them overnight.

These are being framed in Guerrini frames so I don't have the depth for stretcher bars.

-Sarah
 
I believe that fusion is 190. I know that the United equivelent that I use is 190 and works perfectly. One layer is all you need. You don't need to weight it but just lay a piece of glass over it for 30 seconds to dissapate the heat or hold it against the Wizard aluminum table for the same results.
 
Fusion 4000 in our vacuum press works great on canvas!

There's a lot more to the printed canvas than normal canvas; it's more of a paper (albeit a thick, flexible paper) that's been treated with an ink-suseptible surface. Ink doesn't flex like oils or acrylics, thus when stretching and keying, one has to be concerned for the possibility of the ink cracking.

We give our customers both options; usually, they go for the mounting because it's cost effective. We do, however, default to the instructions given by limited edition giclees (which more times than not say to stretch them on bars.)

Okay, back to the website.
 
Jeff Rodier said:
You don't need to weight it but just lay a piece of glass over it for 30 seconds to dissapate the heat or hold it against the Wizard aluminum table for the same results.[/QUOTE]


Now that's a great tip, Jeff. Just having got a vacuum press recently, I've been waving them over my head like a crazy man. Almost took flight a couple of times. :p
Click to expand...
 
Agree with Fusion.
Works well and I do leave it under a sheet of glass for a bit to cool and figure it cant hurt to help process the bond.
I have used speedmount and perfectmount and had bad results...seems some canvas sticks and others peel right off even after sitting under weight.
 
Just found my sheet on Fusion:
recommended press temp 190 degrees F (min temp 170)
For vacuum press: 3-4 minutes
 
j Paul said:
Jeff Rodier said:
You don't need to weight it but just lay a piece of glass over it for 30 seconds to dissapate the heat or hold it against the Wizard aluminum table for the same results.[/QUOTE]


Now that's a great tip, Jeff. Just having got a vacuum press recently, I've been waving them over my head like a crazy man. Almost took flight a couple of times. :p
Click to expand...

I've lost hold of one of my prints doing that.:faintthud:
Click to expand...
 
have used perfect mount for this for 5 years---careful that it's layed down smooth and work the bubbles out(or use a pin). I use a vac(no heat) with a foam overlayment for 3-5 min---this, to me, ensures that it is 'really' stuck flat everywhere and the surface doesn't get damaged(have had to do this on a couple of 'tourist' oils on muslin/no boarders and the oils come out ok), then trim to fit. with prints I use foam rabbit tape(those inks get abraided easily)
 
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