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Class

Class

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Posts
241
Loc
Asheville, NC
Hello all,
I got an old medical chart of a sectioned chicken... it was from a vet school in sweden in the 70's. I intend on dry mounting it. It is in pretty poor condition (holes, little tares, worn through but not quite all the way spots) but it kind of adds to the creepiness of the piece. Anyway, there is a tare about 6 inches long from the edge of the piece. My question is this, when I dry mount it do I use the tare area as my tacking point to avoid seperation so the paper adhiseve does not come through or is there a method somebody else could sugest? Or am I missing something entirely?
Thanks
 
Class said:
Hello all,
I got an old medical chart of a sectioned chicken... it was from a vet school in sweden in the 70's. I intend on dry mounting it. It is in pretty poor condition (holes, little tares, worn through but not quite all the way spots) but it kind of adds to the creepiness of the piece. Anyway, there is a tare about 6 inches long from the edge of the piece. My question is this, when I dry mount it do I use the tare area as my tacking point to avoid seperation so the paper adhiseve does not come through or is there a method somebody else could sugest? Or am I missing something entirely?
Thanks
Click to expand...

How would you replace it, if it gets ruined drymounting it??
I would make the customer sign some type of disclaimer that you won't be held responsible if something bad happens to it.
Just a thought.
 
I am actually good friends with the person who owns it... I would feel bad and he might get angry but we are not looking at any legal action. That being said, I want to do this right!
 
P Tape to fix the tear from the back, try to resticth the paper fibers as best as possible. Hinge it to backing paper.

Personally I wouldn't go any near the heat press with that thing. Imagine what the 80 year old chicken grease will smell like when you warm it up! Ewwww open the #### windows first!
 
Bob Doyle said:
P Tape to fix the tear from the back, try to resticth the paper fibers as best as possible. Hinge it to backing paper.

Personally I wouldn't go any near the heat press with that thing. Imagine what the 80 year old chicken grease will smell like when you warm it up! Ewwww open the #### windows first!
Click to expand...

Only one problem with the hingeing is that its 38x26 and has been rolled up for who knows how long.
 
I've had success with beaten and torn maps using Lineco's document repair tape to repair the torn areas and then mounting on Bainbridge's ArtCare Restore Foam Core. The repair tape is so thin it doesn't show through the mount. Also the short dwell time and low temperature used with Restore cause little concern for damage to the document.

Since the chart has been rolled for so long I would weight it flat for as long as possible to make it easier to work with and therefore have less chance of further damage.

Be sure to weight the chart after drymounting with a plate glass or mirror during cooling.
 
Bob Doyle said:
...

Personally I wouldn't go any near the heat press with that thing. Imagine what the 80 year old chicken grease will smell like when you warm it up! Ewwww open the #### windows first!
Click to expand...

Bob, you are supposed to put this type of advise in GREEN so we know your showing some levity!

;)​
 
I'd first dip it in a bath of beaten eggs then roll it in bread crumbs, set the dwell time for 20 minutes and 325 degrees. Cook till a golden brown crust. Serve with a side of B&W Ansel Adams dripped with some Salvador Dali "Clock" sauce.

Seriously, weight/press it for a couple of days or weeks and see if that will help... then go at it with the least evasive procedure that gets it done.
And if you have to mount... I agree with Dave because of the low temp and dwell, as well as the "reversibility".
 
Susan May said:
Good grief. Because this is worth framing, how about taking it to a Paper Conservator?

Treat it right. Get it fixed.
Click to expand...

Agian... the tares and rips kind of add to the creepiness of it (clients words not mine). Its a pretty kitchy piece, and the worn look is part of it, I just do not want to ruin it when I mount it.
 
Class said:
... I just do not want to ruin it when I mount it.
Click to expand...

Permanent mounting is always risky. If you are the world's best dry mounter and ruin only one mount in 10,000, this would be the one.

I suggest a non-invasive mount, and there are sevreal good choices:

Fine mesh fabric overlay -- Stabiltex or Crepeline might be almost invisible and provide gentle, overall support. The edges may be shown, and wrinkles or folds would be flattened only slightly. Risk is minimal, as no adhesive of any kind touches the item. Overlay mounts are durable, but reversing is easy.

Clear film encapsulation or overlay -- Very durable and supportive, easily reversed, minimal risk.

Acrylic overlay -- Sandwich the item between a padded background fabric and a piece of abrasion resistant acrylic. This mount can show the edges, provides enough pressure to flatten wrinkles, and may be easily reversed. Optically coated acrylic would be almost invisible. Do not make this mount with glass unless you intend to use a secondary glazing for insulation against condensation.

Edge supports -- If the paper is strong enough to support itself, this would be far superior to corner pockets.

If you are unfamiliar with these mounting options, practice before affecting the customer's property. There's no rocket science involved with these mounts, just careful assembly.
 
If you get it good and flat using heat and no tissue it might drymount just fine. Its always hard to tell just from a description. Even still somethings do fine and some don't. I'd probably use Restore for this project so you can remove it if it doesn't mount well.

You've been around long enough to know that the G is going to suggest you handle this like the Magna Carta. You would have better luck getting a baptist to admit that Jesus drank wine than getting the G to recognize dry mounting as a reasonable method.
 
Agian, thanks for the help. I have yet to start the project as I was busy this weekend... Jim ,thanks for the alternate methods, as i will be using one of them I am sure. If not on this project then another.
 
Jay H said:
You've been around long enough to know that the G is going to suggest you handle this like the Magna Carta. You would have better luck getting a baptist to admit that Jesus drank wine than getting the G to recognize dry mounting as a reasonable method.
Click to expand...

This is so true. Sometimes a dry mount is just a dry mount. I handle a lot of old paper ephemera and some of it just looks cool and has no value whatsoever. I've got sheet music covers framed in my shop right now that I dry mounted.:icon9: A couple of them were shot to #### and torn and I just wanted to flatten them in place so I could still enjoy the image.

It is up to the poster to determine what he has in his posession and if he needs to treat it in a conservation manner. We do tend to go overboard here.

I can't really advise on dry mounting it since we can't see it. Maybe you can post a picture.
 
Back to the original question (BTW I would use restore), I would lay a sheet of glass on the poster and slide it away from the torn edge, exposing an inch or so, then tack accross the tear. that should remove any worry about misaligning the tear when mounting. The description of the poster doesn't indicate any intrinsic value other than the customer's sentiment - IMHO a perfect candidate for dry mounting to make a clean frame job and to prevent further damage.
 
Ok... I used restore board, it looks great! Agian thanks for the help. As always I have learned something new, even if I go with my first instinct.
 
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