I need tips for mounting a tassel

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JRAM1

JRAM1

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Feb 13, 2007
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What is the most appealing way to mount a graduation tassel? I've tried securing them with monofillament line, but the "cinched" look is not very nice. I've been told to place the tassel in a clear tube, use clear nylon tulle, bulid a box in the backing, ATG each layer of the tassel down (yikes) and several other methods that seem very difficult. I've looked for clear nylon tulle at our local fabric shops but have not had any luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jonathon.
 
I use a sink mount for that portion of the mat, attach the top part of the tassel with thread or monofillament line at two places. I also flatten the top part, the metal part that holds it altogether, slightly with a plyers. I prefer the natural look and let the tassel hang and the sink mount contains it to a degree.
 
I find that the "bind it" or "put it in a tube" to be just a little too anal retentive.
Secure the top "bind".... and let it hang. When they put it on the wall, trust me... it won't just roam all over the diploma... it's just going to hang. Eventually static electricity looses out... :D
 
I do as Jpete suggested, but to keep the tassle from going all over when the customer takes it I tried a tip from Vivian Kistler's book, Framing Collectibles.

I ran a bright colored thread through the backing, ragmat,and matboard it was mounted too, around the middle of the tassle and back through all the layers. Leave a long tail of thread and ran it out the dust cover. This will hold the tassle in place until they get it home, then all they have to do is pull the thread out when they are ready to hang it.

It worked like a charm.
 
Yes, that works like a charm. Once.

pollyann said:
...I ran a bright colored thread through...all the layers...This will hold the tassle in place until they get it home, then all they have to do is pull the thread out when they are ready to hang it.

It worked like a charm.
Click to expand...

What about later, when someone takes the frame off the wall to repaint or rearrange, not thinking about the loose tassle strings? One of my frames, equipped with the pull-out thread you described, came back to me for just that reason.

The daughter went off to college shortly after we framed her high school diploma & tassle, and mom decided to remodel that room for the son. So, when I took it apart to gather the strings that had snagged all over the inside of the little tassle coffin, I put in a cylinder of clear film. After that, she could turn it upside down or any angle, and the strings would always fall right back into place when it went right-side-up again.

We framed his diploma and tassle later, too, just like his sister's. :thumbsup:
 
Jim,
I just recently tried Vivian's suggestion for the first time. I am always concerned that someone would bring it back because the loose tassles will end up some where else. Prior to that I used clear thread and secured most of the loose threads in 2 places, I left enough of them loose to hide the thread. I suppose if the customer decided to shake it up or tip it the few loose threads could get stuck, but so far in the past 14 yrs I haven't had any come back. Perhaps I will go back to my old way. I will keep my fingers crossed I don't get any back!

I think the cylinder of clear film is a great idea, but I am limited (by who I work for) as to what products I can get, unfortunately clear film isn't one of them. I look forward to the day I can use what ever I want.
 
When I saw this threaad topic i didn't think I'd get to post my response because I assumed that someone would have beat me to it. Then I saw Baer listed as a contributer and knew I wouldn't. Then I read through and was amazed that no one actualy made this response yet.......

Well I find that a little double stick tape works wonders on keeping the tassle stuck to your nipples. ;)
 
Nah, brian, not after you get all sweaty.
 
Pollyann, Michael's used to sell mylar film in their art dept for art applications, they may still have it. Plus, they should have some sort of mylar in their floral/gift wrap area used to wrap up gift baskets, I'm not sure how thick that is but I know it said it was mylar. Just some thoughts. I miss being able to rummage through those craft stores to use stuff to touch up frames or just to create stuff. I don't miss it enough to go back though......

or possibly in the scrapbooking area there might be mylar sleeves to store stuff....................
 
Emibub said:
Pollyann, Michael's used to sell mylar film in their art dept for art applications,..
Click to expand...


They don't sell the mylar in the art dept any more, you should see how many people ask for it. On occasion I will use a scrapbook sleeve, but most of the time they are never clear enough or with out dents and creases in them to use for framing.

But thanks for the ideas!
 
I asked Jim Miller in the shadow box class at WCAF if those mylar sleeves would work for that application. He said the mylar was a different material than the melinex he recommends, and that it can't be totally deemed as "safe" for his standards. I finally bought a roll of the "real stuff" and have been using it, I can say now, there is a difference in quality and visibility and flexibility, and I will trust what he says about the "archival-ness" of it.
 
Yeah, I have my own rolls of melinex also Val. Just trying to come up with alternatives for Pollyann since she has restrictions she is working with. The sleeves I am referring to say they are archival so, I would have no problem using them. It is hard to find ones that are clear like Pollyann said though.
 
I know, Kathy....I had the same dillema as Pollyann....and that's why I asked Jim Miller...., I guess it amounts to what's available, and what's the best visually....sometimes we can't all be the purists our mentors would like us to be! (oh geeze, I'm ducking here...)
 
If you need a clear flexible sleeve, and don't want to pony up the $65 minimum order for Talis... use a baggie.

And before anyone starts in... ask Hugh what to iron between rice paper to make a butterfly hinge.

If it works for Hugh, it works for me.. and it isn't taking a load, plus it's "Certified" for human food contact.. and that's more than I can say for Melinex.
 
Val said:
...He said the mylar was a different material than the melinex he recommends, and that it can't be totally deemed as "safe" for his standards...and I will trust what he says about the "archival-ness" of it.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify...

If clear polyester film envelopes are your choice, I suggest buying them from a source of some known quality, such as the archival material suppliers; University Products, Light Impressions, Gaylord Bros., Talas, etc. A lot of the clear plastic envelopes available are made of polyester film, but not all of them. Polypropylene, styrene, and polyethylene might also be used, but those materials probably would not be mistaken for polyester film.

Also, not all polyester films are equal. There are at least two dozen types of Mylar and Melinex polyester clear films that look alike and, in some applications, perform interchangeably. Most of them are available in multiple thicknesses, too. The unique and desirable features of Melinex 516 and Mylar-D are high clarity and their lack of chemical coatings that could react inside a frame package.

I appreciate your confidence and endorsement of my suggestions, Val, but I can't take the credit you're giving me. I don't know enough about chemistry or testing procedures to deem any of those products "safe", so the standards are not mine, per se. Lacking the smarts to create my own standards, I can only seek the suggestions of authorities who know what they are talking about. In this case, Mylar Type D and Melinex 516 are among the few clear polyester films tested and approved for use in framing by the United States Library of Congress. It may be notable that many other brands and types of clear films were not approved.

The Library of Congress is quick to point out that their testing should not be taken as a recommendation for any purpose outside of the USLOC. Just the same, if it's good enough for framing documents and objects in the Library of Congress, it's good enough for me and my customers.
 
Tassle

Vivian Kistler wrote an article a few months ago for PFM called The Hassle of the Tassle. Some good tips in the article. We often sink the tassle in a well so that it can't flop around so much. And yet, on this one, which we put on our site, I see that the tassle moved to the side slightly. The customer was happy to just give it a shake to straighten out the ends. I like to see the tassle hanging free and not enclosed, hence the sink well to contain it a bit.

Photo of diploma with tassel--click on diploma top row right.

I really need to add some Wizard cuts to this page. We have lots on the wall now since our January purchase, and no time to do web work!
 
Pollyann,

Let me know if you need a small piece of mylar. I'll be happy to send it to you if you don't find any at M's.

I'm of the let it hang theory. Don't like the sausage look.

I just finished the shadow box from he**. Don't care if I ever see another piece of mylar for a long, long time. (the shadow box is really cool though, I think they'll be pleased. It's a military box for three generations).
 
Maryann,

Thanks for the offer, but I am fine with the let it hang theory as well. I think the original poster, JRAM1, was seeking some advice on how to mount them. I do believe he now has a few idea's to try.

As for getting mylar at M's, they don't sell it. The sleeves you can get are for scrapbooking, and are NOT of the same quality or substance. I do hope to be able to work with Melinex 516 or mylar-d at some point, but I do believe that time will be after my time with M's.

I would love to see a pic. of your shadow box from he**.
 
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