How you stretch a cross stitch?

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Kit

Kit

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 31, 2000
Posts
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Loc
Rochester, MN
Tom's latest project made me think that we might be going about this differently. Here's how I do a pin stretch:

If the piece is to be matted, I cut a piece of foam core 1" larger than the mat opening and eyeball the placement. If there is no mat, I cut the f/c an 1/8" smaller than the size of the frame and count threads to get the image centered.

First I determine where all four corners are going to be and mark them with pins. Then I pin each corner in place. This equalizes the stress across the fabric and, if I have counted threads correctly, it is automatically centered.

Using a thread in the fabric as a guide, I pin one long side, then the opposite long side. Then I pin the two short sides. Pinning the corners first insures that, when I get to the fourth corner, everything is lined up straight.

In the first shop where I worked, cross stitch accounted for about 75% of my orders. I had to be able to do it quickly and this method worked for me.

How about the rest of you Grumblers?

Kit
 
I do them exactly the same way except when I find where the fabric hits the edge of the foamcore I use a blunt needle and score the fabric following the thread which leaves a nice score line and I can easily see where to pin it. If that makes sense. Or at least as much sense as it can at 1am.

I actually enjoy doing needlework. I too have worked in stores that had a high percentage of needlework jobs. I do so little of it here that I can't honestly remember when I did my last one...........
 
Originally posted by Kit:

In the first shop where I worked, cross stitch accounted for about 75% of my orders. I had to be able to do it quickly and this method worked for me.

How about the rest of you Grumblers?

Kit
Click to expand...
I'm afraid I don't understand the necessity to do the cross stitch mounting "quickly". I prefer to do them properly and give them the time that they deserve.
I don't use pins, I lace. I prefer lacing, but even if I did use pins, my opinion is that quality of workmanship is more important to me and my customers than "speed"
 
Certainly needlework customers care about the quality of the stretching. But if we're charging them by the hour, as we should be, they care about speed, too.

When I first started framing, we saw a lot of crewel and needlepoint. 7-8 years later, cross-stitch was probably 30-35% of my work. Now I see maybe 3-4 pieces each month. I probably frame more really fine silk embroidery than that.

Edit: Oh, and I pin pretty-much the way you do, Kit (on the cross-stitch, not the silk embroidery.) To be honest, it wasn't all that long ago that I retired my staple gun, though.

[ 04-24-2004, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: Ron Eggers ]
 
Wow, since when does fast mean shoddy work? Fast means efficient. I can pin a cross stitch in about a third of the time I can lace one. I don't believe pinning causes any harm. Not only do I enjoy mounting needlework I also used to have time to actually do needlework so I have a built in affinity for the work itself.

There's more than one way to fry a fish.(sorry, I can't bring myself to say "skin a cat")

I do lace when necessary but this is cross stitch we are talking about so I am comfortable pinning them.
 
Vivian Kistler taught a very slick way to stretch a cross-stitch. This works when the piece will be matted - -

Cut an opening out of foamcore a little larger than the mat opening - lay the needle-work down on the "fall-out" and center - then place the foamcore "frame" back over the needle-point & fallout and straighten your "lines" by pulling (gently) from the back side. You can then sew across the back to secure the piece - quick & easy!
 
I spray mount
 
MCPHOTO I have been pinning for years but have not tried this method. It sounds like it would be much easier to get the fabric straight using your method. Since I have a half dozen pieces to do, I am going to try this on my next piece. thanks Sharon
 
Vivian Kistler's method of sizing the foamcore and using it to secure the piece is called the "Newberry Fit". This is perhaps the most prevalent type of stretching in our shop for most needlework. Depending on the fabric, this method has been a lifesaver for us. Adjustments to square the piece are not so difficult either. Chuck T.
 
Usually anything that's laying around - fishin' line, picture frame wire, old shoelaces. :D

Mostly, a heavy cotton sewing thread which Mary (my wife) usually sews - otherwise the item would be speckled with drops of blood :rolleyes:
 
Mike
"You can then sew across the back to secure the piece - quick & easy!"

Could you explain? My wife won't let me sew the foam board with her sewing machine!
 
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