How to mount home base?

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Kirstie

Kirstie

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Jan 16, 2007
Posts
8,395
Loc
Berkeley, CA
A Cal customer brought us in a solid rubber home base (softball) and a plaque to mount in a two window mat. They also provided a Cal decal to attach to the rubber base. First we have to attache the decal. It has some worthless two sided adhesive on it. Second, we have to mount the base to mat board. The customer did not like the look of Stablitex. The base is heavy. We need an adhesive that will not release. It is to float inside the mat window. The window below the base will be cut in the shape of the base with a coated metal thin plaque inside that the customer provided. The plaque has the usual worthless self adhesive tape on the back side. The plaque is to be raised up to the level of the base in the top window.

This is a rush job for the university. We have four days to do it. We need adhesive advice please. In the past we have used a really strong mounting double sided strip 3m waterproof 5lb adhesive tape that Jeff found at Ace Hardware. We have used it on the back of heavy brass plaques for the university and they have not let go in the five or so years they have been on display. We also know that the contractor for our home used the same tape for the mirrors in our bathroom and it has held for 30 years so far.

Any reason not to use this tape? Not so sure about the rubber mounted to mat. The base is probably about 2lbs.

Thanks!
 
Industrial adhesive works well. It comes in those caulking gun tubes. You buy it at the hardware/lumber store.
 
I wouldn't trust gluing something heavy to matboard. Even if the glue holds the mat's surface will tear off. Best to cut a window through the bottom mat and glue to something more substantial underneath like plywood. I would prefer to see screws holding it to the substrate. Wood or sheet metal screws would screw into the rubber of the base successfully. Along with some fixture adhesive like 'liquid nails' or silicone this would provide a strong bond.

I am assuming it is a real home base that just sits on the dirt, like we used in grade school.
 
Volkem the dang thing to CoreX or plywood through the mat. timquinn is right, what would give way is the face sheet of the matboard. And if it really isn't archival, then Vokem and some screws from the back. What their going to ever take the plate out and use it? :D
 
Baer Charlton said:
Volkem the dang thing to CoreX or plywood through the mat. timquinn is right, what would give way is the face sheet of the matboard. And if it really isn't archival, then Vokem and some screws from the back. What their going to ever take the plate out and use it? :D
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OK Baer, now you have to translate this for me. Volkem? And, is CoreX same as Coroplast? If Coroplast, would you use two sheets perpendicular to each other for strength, then screw into the rubber home base? I hate these rush projects, but hey, business is business.
 
timquinn said:
I wouldn't trust gluing something heavy to matboard. Even if the glue holds the mat's surface will tear off. Best to cut a window through the bottom mat and glue to something more substantial underneath like plywood. I would prefer to see screws holding it to the substrate. Wood or sheet metal screws would screw into the rubber of the base successfully. Along with some fixture adhesive like 'liquid nails' or silicone this would provide a strong bond.

I am assuming it is a real home base that just sits on the dirt, like we used in grade school.
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This sounds good. Wish we had a saw to cut plywood. We always have to rush down to the lumberyard and have them cut a piece for us.
 
When I wrote the first post I had not actually seen the home base. The grid on the back made it more difficult, but there were solid parts in three points. Jeff screwed stretcher on to the back and made a sink hole out of Coroplast--2 pieces running perpendicular for strength. It will get one more backer. The top mat will be raised to accomodate the base depth. I'll photograph it for web when finished.

At least that's one problem solved before we leave on Friday. Next there is the restoration print that was not printed for the customer who leaves for NY on Tuesday, the rush institutional job for this week, etc etc. We will get it all done, and leave the rest with our trusty staff. This time next week we will be in Rome. Whew!

Thanks for your suggestions!
 

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Kirstie... Jeff done good! CoreX is PP and Coroplast is PE and noone has been able to explain any difference to me as to neutrality for conservation purposes. All I know is that when on fire PE fumes will kill you, and PP just makes you wish it was PE. But I think that's extreme.

The other difference is that CoreX is more widely available and is about half the cost. 48x96 4mm for 9.70 delivered the next day.
 
Baer Charlton said:
Kirstie... Jeff done good! CoreX is PP and Coroplast is PE and noone has been able to explain any difference to me as to neutrality for conservation purposes. All I know is that when on fire PE fumes will kill you, and PP just makes you wish it was PE. But I think that's extreme.

The other difference is that CoreX is more widely available and is about half the cost. 48x96 4mm for 9.70 delivered the next day.
Click to expand...

Where do you get yours? Local plastics supplier? We only have the LJ acid-free that Jeff got on sale and we've been using it for non-archival purposes. Handy stuff, that.
 
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