Question How to fix a dry-mounted photo

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parkerparker

Grumbler in Training
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Hi all -- I'm new here, and thought this might be a good forum for this question. I have a client who has two old silver-based photographs that were drymounted to standard illustration board (back in the sixties). Recently, his office was flooded and the mount board absorbed some water. The photographs themselves are not harmed, but the board has warped and delaminated some. The photographs are mounted in the center of the board with about 4" of margin on all sides.

What's the best way to fix this? The client just wants to hang on the wall. The prints are not signed, but are nice black and white photographs that his wife's uncle shot many years ago, and are artistic in nature.
 
How is the board immediately under and around the photos themselves? Is there any warp or delamination in that area? It seems to me you could trim the board close to the edges of the photo.
 
The board is mostly solid under one of the two photos, but the other may have more damage. The second is more badly warped and delammed, and may not be solidly attached to the print at the bottom. I don't have 'em in my possession right now to examine.

Would pressure under low heat in a dry mount press help at all with the warp factor? (Currently at warp factor 1, but I haven't given it all she's got...:icon21:
 
If a conservator is not an option, trim to the photo edge and sink mount with new mats.
 
parkerparker said:
Sink mounting is probably the best option... does anyone know if drymount tissue from the mid 60's was reversible at all? My recollection tells me that it wasn't...
Click to expand...

Well, you might luck out -- I've had a couple of drymounted posters come in, and while in the shop the tissue failed, allowing me to remove the poster from the original foamboard so I could remount them. But these were cases where I didn't have to tug or scrape or anything; the mounting completely failed.

If the mounting doesn't fail on its own, don't mess with it.
 
Dry Mount Tissue

parkerparker said:
Sink mounting is probably the best option... does anyone know if drymount tissue from the mid 60's was reversible at all? My recollection tells me that it wasn't...
Click to expand...

I assume this is a fiber base photo, but whether fiber base or RC either may be removed this way.

Yes, sink mounitng would be the least scary solution. But if you are adventurous and it is very likely this is a Seal Products tissue, either Fotoflat or ColorMount. Fotoflat is removable if reheated to 170F and immediately peeled apart before cooling. ColorMount may be dissolved with solvents such as Bestine Thinner, Unstick or Toluene. The solvent will do no harm to the photo, in fact it can be floated in a shallow bath to release the adhesive. Lightly rinse the face of the removed photo and allow to dry. Do not soak in water becasue if the fiber base image dries cockled it will never lie flat again. If you dry it under pressure use pellon (spun polyester) and blotter layers on either side to prevent it from sticking and weight between rag boards to dry.

It may then be flat mounted to the center of a new board using a premounted adhesive method.

Chris A. Paschke
Designs Ink
Industry Mounting Specialist
 
Thanks for the advice, all. I believe the client has access to the original negatives, but finding the proper negative and making a new print may be problematic as time and distance present logistic obstacles.

My guess is that it's not ColorMount, as these prints are black&white fiber based darkroom prints, about 16x20', mounted to a 20x24" board, or so. They don't look or feel like RC prints -- back then ('65), tray developing was the way most amateur photogs did things.

I think I will recommend sink mounting to him, as long as the more damaged of the two prints has enough substrate to keep the print flat.

thanks again

Jim
 
I don't know where you are located, so can't recommend a local paper or photographic conservator; the previous link may get you to one, as may calling local art gallery or museum.

In the 60's drymount was generally either shellac or wax based; they respond to different solvents. In either case removal is generally done by thinning the backboard, and then using solvent. Solvent is best used with excellent ventillation, for the safety of the user and the artifact.

The trim and sink mount is a good, safe option if you can't involve a conservator.

Best Wishes

Rebecca
 
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