How to fit oversize (depth) oil into small rabbit frame

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Situation:
Customer brought in oil painting 36 X 46 1/2 in which the artist made his own stretcher bars. The depth of the stretcher bars is 1 3/4 inch and the chosen frame has a rabbit depth of 3/8 inch.

We don't want to screw or nail into the sides of the canvas and customer is adamant about not using a deeper frame.

Any suggestions on how to fasten the canvas into the frame?
:confused:
 
Does the owner know how far off the wall that frame will sit on that canvas when it is hung?

I would suggest adding some square/rectangular strips to the back of the frame and set in far enough so that they aren't easily seen when the frame is on the wall. I would make the strips deep enough to allow the use of canvas offsets. They are available in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" offsets and can be bought from our sponsor, United Mfrs. Supplies.

You would be building the back of the frame up to within one of these dimensions from the edge of their stretcher bars and then fastening the canvas into the modified frame with the offsets and screws.

Framerguy
 
I think I would use screw eyes in the side of the stretcher bars at the depth of the frame. Then use wood screws through the screw eyes, into the frame. That should take care of it. Are you going to paint the sides of the exposed stretcher bars?

John
 
Originally posted by Western Winds:

We don't want to screw or nail into the sides of the canvas and customer is adamant about not using a deeper frame.
Click to expand...
Main reason for my suggestion.

I agree that JRB's idea is a good one but the holes in the sides of the stretchers would put a crimp in the customer's desires to not have holes in his/her canvas.

Framerguy
 
Rip a 2x4 at a 45 degree angle build a backing frame, paint black. This will give you 2" of depth 1 5/8 for the 2x4 and 3/8 for the frame rabbit. then you can put in a piece of coroplast or whatever and fit like normal. This idea goes out the window if the frame width is under 2".
 
Sorry, I should have read the original post another time.

Best thing to do would be to go into a blind rage at the customer and demand that they explain exactly how you are supposed to make the frame stay on the canvas. While your arms are flailing around in the air, scream at them to stay away from the door.

The real problem sounds like the customer does not want to spend the money on a deeper frame or does not want to spend the money having you adding to the depth of the frame.

Should you acomplish this project, the next one will be to frame a 30" X 40" image with triple four inch wide mats & glass in a 1/2" X 1/2" moulding. They will expect a writen quarantee from you, that the hangers will not rip out of the frame, since they plan to hang it above their collection of Ming dynasty vases. :D

John
 
As I pick myself off the floor and clear my eyes from tears of laughter, I'd like to thank you all for your prompt replies and suggestions, especially John's!!! :D

I will post what we decide to do.
 
John, there have been sooo many times that I wished I could do as you suggest! Still laughing.

Last fall a customer brought me a collection of paintings he had acquired when they were de-acquisitioned by a museum in St. Petersburg, Russia. They were stretched over an odd assortment of lumber - think packing crates and railroad ties.

This gentleman likes very wide mouldings, none of which were deep enough to accomodate the stretchers.

I ordered black shadow box frames the same outside dimension as the face frame then glued/screwed them together. It made a much neater package than having the back of the painting sticking out of the frame.

I'm only offering this as a back-up plan, in case you decide not to go with JRB's excellent suggestion.

Kit
 
John,

I tried that one time.

I went into a 5 minute spiel about all the virtues of doing a proper job on a canvas transfer (that may have cost $45.00 to begin with) using one of the mouldings out of my stock instead of the Garden Way Mexican pre-made that she brought along with her that didn't fit correctly and had plastic (I think) finished corners on it with genuine 24k gold spray paint over the entire thing.

I explained how the quality of wood and finish differed between her frame and my moulding, and the virtues of having the frame fit correctly so there weren't any obvious gaps around the edge of the canvas.

The lady stood there for a short time ................. she glanced at her frame, .................glanced back at me, ..........and finally said as calm as could be, "So what's your point?"

I rest my case.

Framerguy
 
Once you stop laughing after reading JRB's "right-on" commentary, you can make your own "oversize" offset clips out of metal "Electric Cable Clips" available at any hardware store. They are flexible but retain their shape. You can bend them to whatever shape you need. Staple top into back of stretcher and screw bottom into back of frame w. 3/8" screws.

:cool: Rick
 
I love the idea of making your own clips! But I think I'd be more inclined to use John's suggestion... I've been there in that very situation and after all the debate the customer did NOT like the way the canvas hung out the back of the frame, admitted we were right in the first place, and ended up buying another frame. Sigh... some days you win, some days you lose... some days going home with all the hair you started the day with is reason enough to be happy
 
And, in the end, the customer apparently made the right decision for all concerned. (With your help and educational guidance).

Glad to hear that it all worked out for the best.

FGII
 
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