Question How do you stretch circle and oval needlepoints-no mat?

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imaluma

imaluma

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We use a variety of methods when we stretch different items. Typically, when we stretch needlepoints with a mat we use matboard on foamcor and staple around the edges while we get it pulled nice and straight. When we go without a mat, we stretch them on strainer bars like a canvas since we have to pull a bit more than with a cross stitch, and pin stretching doesn't work with those big gaping spaces between the mesh.
I thought a circular stretcher bar would work fitted to the frames but where to source them? Any other ideas?
 
(When I was still framing)

I mounted needlepoints and cross stitch on Acid Free Foam Core. We either used stainless steel pins or lacing. (For needlepoint, we would bend the pins so the canvas wouldn't slip back over the tip of the pin.)

For pinning on a circle or oval, think of it like a clock. Start with 12 and 6, then pin 3 and 9. Then pin between the 12 and 3, then the 6 and 9. Opposite sides, back and forth until you have it done. Sometimes you might need to readjust the first pins because pinning at a diagonal will stretch the canvas out of shape.

I hope this makes sense.

If you feel like you need extra strength, use two layers of foam core.


Good luck.
 
A method I've used in the past with good results is stretching on foam board covered with a layer of polyester quilt batting.

This makes it much easier to stretch because you're mostly compressing the quilt batting around the edges rather than stretching the fabric.

This also makes for a "padded chair" look to the stichery witch when framed with spacers looks really swell. (Swell - haven't used that word in years.)
 
We do oval needle art almost exactly like Susan does except we use Crescent Needle Board instead of foamboard.

The trick in keeping the fabric “squared” is to find the exact horizontal and vertical middle of the art and follow those middles to the side of the fabric, AND to find the exact apex of the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions of your mounting board. We generally mark those points on the substrate with a pencil. It sometimes helps to pencil in a horizontal and vertical grid onto your backing material before you cut the circle or oval. It makes those 12, 3, 6, and 9 positions easier to determine.

Once you get the 12, 3, 6, 9 positions pinned exactly, the fabric “rows and columns” will be perfectly perpendicular. Then, as Susan suggests, attaching the fabric to the 1:30, 7:30, etc., positions are only needed to “tuck in” the rest of the canvas.
 
We would prefer to lace the needlepoint canvas over an oval-shaped substrate of fluted polypropylene lined with alpha cellulose matboard. Volara foam tape or polyester felt would cover the edges. That combination of materials would be rigid, suitable for preservation, easy to prepare, and cheap. Polyester batting could be used for loft/padding.

Foam board would be OK, but I would not want to us any product like Crescent Needle Art Mounting Board, because it is made of buffered, non-conservation millboard (wood pulp), and would eventually discolor and damage the needlepoint.

And I would absolutely, positively, without fail, always recommend spacers and glazing for needlepoint.
 
Susan May said:
(When I was still framing)

I mounted needlepoints and cross stitch on Acid Free Foam Core. We either used stainless steel pins or lacing. (For needlepoint, we would bend the pins so the canvas wouldn't slip back over the tip of the pin.)

For pinning on a circle or oval, think of it like a clock. Start with 12 and 6, then pin 3 and 9. Then pin between the 12 and 3, then the 6 and 9. Opposite sides, back and forth until you have it done. Sometimes you might need to readjust the first pins because pinning at a diagonal will stretch the canvas out of shape.

I hope this makes sense.

If you feel like you need extra strength, use two layers of foam core.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

If you have a fine fabric tagging tool and quarter inch fasteners you can do this same method but instead of using in pins, use the quarter inch fasteners. Shoot them through very close to the edge of the foam board, so the fastener will be hidden under the rabbet. It is very easy and you you can pleat as you go. Also, like Susan said, use the clock method 12-3-6-&9 for your first 8 fasteners. Starting with 2 on each side about a half inch apart. Then just like stretching a canvas, work your way around placing the fasteners a half inch apart alternating from side to side untill it is fully attached. When using my methods you will always want use 2 pieces of 1/8" foam core instead of one piece of 1/4" so you have that extra layer of paper to make the board more sturdy.
 
Good luck. Take your time, and be prepared to adjust things as you go. It takes a little more time than straight edges, but if done right, looks great!
 
I am pleased to announce that with much frustration, "what the...?s", "but how do I...?s" "ARRRGGGHH!!!s", and finally a few "AHA!" moments I have successfully figured out and implemented the lacing method using the attach-ez to stretch a round needlepoint. Thanks for all your input! I like this method so much I am going to finally begin lacing more needlework, hopefully eventually all. It was about time.
 
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