How do you store your suede mats?

As was told to the Graduate: Plastic (bags).

Just put em in the bag and slide them into your racks with the rest of the mats. If you really want to get fussy you can tape thin cardboard over them also, or in lieu of the bags. :cool:
Good question Richard!

I take any 'leftovers' and wrap them in plastic packaging. I put the mat numbers on tabs with index cards and file the matboards in order. The same is done with all fabric boards or any that are subject to damage via standard storage methods.

Hope that helps.
I'm not sure what kind of damage y'all are picking up on your (full) mats. I have been storing them vertically under my mat table for years with no ill effects.

I only wish that some of the distributor employees that fill my orders would take the same precautions when handling suedes and all the other mats I buy from them. Bent corners, scuffs from dragging another matboard across the colored paper surface, knicks in the edges from dropping them down on the edge of a bin or table or loading dock, stuff like that. Sloppy handling has lost more than one distributor my mat business. There are too many other distributors that want my mat business and are willing to keep some kind of quality control over how their people handle the boards.

Regarding cutoffs of suede boards, I sort them in reverse order by size. In other words I put the largest pieces to the left in the bin with the suede facing left and smaller pieces graduated to the right on down to the smallest pieces. That way there are no edges leaning against the face of the adjacent board leaving a line or flat spot in the suede nap.

If you do get a mark in your suede board, try using a stiff bristle knuckle brush to massage them out, the kind of brush you use to clean your nail area and knuckles. I found that using a stiff bristle brush such as described in a circular action will take out most all marks and flat spots and renew the mottled look of the suede.

On rolls.

Sometimes a little steam brings up the nap after you finish wrapping the mat or liner. But generally the rolls keep suede, silks, satins, linens, and cottens just fine.

Of course, if there is left-over smaller then 20" wide by a yard, I just pitch it. :D
Hey Baer, how do you roll a mat? I just tried one and it din't work out too well. Do you teach the technique in your classes?

You Fabric Guys don't want to believe that mats come with the fabric already attached! (Granted the hand-wrapped beauties look better)

Sorry man, I couldn't resist. If I didn't do it someone else would have. :D
I used to try brushing the suede with a stiff brush to get out any marks or lines. It would take a bit of work and look OK. Then I read a tip on the Grumble and tried it and it works great. Just take an iron and give the suede a "shot o'steam". Makes it look great.
Doug, putting them store-bought suede mats on rolls is easy.... after you soak them in kerosene for a minute or two.

Some think it's the getting them flat again that is the tough part; personally I find it is the overcoming the gag reflex brought on by the COG that is the toughest. :eek:

Around July, the pretty colors that the faux fabric makes when it burns on the inside of the tube can save handsomely at the fireworks booth. Joe Bob and his brother Billy Bob taught me that coaxing the flame along with a acetylene torch running several different gasses such as hydro-gin can also be an experience. I met my first nurse girl friend that way at the ER she was working at. Later she dumped me to go back to school and become a real Vet. :D
Originally posted by Richard Darling:
Framerguy, I have never in my life cleaned my knuckles! I didn't know a brush was made for this specific hygenic activity. Where do I find one of these?
I swear I only know about this beauty aid because I spent my first career in the automotive trade!! ............. Honest!!!

When your fingers get so greasy and black overhauling an engine and your main 8 to 5 job demands clean hands such as a body man's duties, I had to get that grease off or else. These little brushes can be bought at Wally World or most drug stores (I think). I haven't had to buy one for over 10 yrs. so I may own a dinosaur by now.

I would think most any tight small stiff bristled brush should work though. For small spots I have used a toothbrush, for example.

One other trick that I found accidently while cleaning small pencil tick marks off the suede side after cutting reverse bevels was rubbing the suede with one of those white non-abrasive erasers (Staedtler makes them I think). They don't leave any residue and won't harm the nap and will also take accidental ATG off the suede surface.

Toothbrush works too, Richard. You do know what that brush is used for, right? Here's a hint: :D
I've also used small piece of suede mat, suede on suede works too.
Toothbrush - of course I know what they're used for. After you put the mitre in a vise, a toothbrush wipes away the excess glue that squeezes out into the nooks and crannys of the moulding!

Now, my low level of intelligence suggests that using the same toothbrush on my suedes would be a costly mistake.
Now, my low level of intelligence suggests that using the same toothbrush on my suedes would be a costly mistake.

Yeah Richard, that would be a good observation.

I would shoot for an extra toothbrush and keep it hidden somewhere where the temptation won't be too great to brush glue or more teeth with it!

Vertically - but make sure they are positioned in such a way that they are not too tight & have a sude surface against a sheet that is bigger than it so you don't get a line (from its neighbours edge) against it. Use 32 x 40 thin cardboard as fividers if necessary.
Nah, one tooth brush will work, as the glue is water soluable, after you brush your teeth go a head and brush the mat.