How do you book your mats for budget framing.

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Grey Owl

Grey Owl

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Posts
2,618
Loc
Lakewood, CO
A while ago Rob asked me why I was doing something a certain way and my answer was that I has always did it that way. wRONG ANSWER. So I'm now starting to look at everything I do in a new light - is there a better way.

For your economic / budget framing, what do you book your mats with? (attaching your top mat package to your mounting mat). do you book your mats?

I have always used linen tape; pressure sensitive for less expensive and water activated for higher end.

Thanks
 
We don't do this either. Compared to what I read of other shops charging, probably 90% of my business would be considered "economical" or "budget" framing.
 
I book about 10% or less of my mats. We used to use Linen tape but have switched to 1" Tyvek tape.
The items that are booked, usually photographs, are also corner pocket mounted so that the mat can be easily opened and the item removed in original condition.
 
I book 95%. The ones I don't are needlepoints and shadowboxes. How do you do it if you don't hinge them? How do you line up the subject on the mounting board if you don't?
 
neilframer said:
I book about 10% or less of my mats. We used to use Linen tape but have switched to 1" Tyvek tape.
The items that are booked, usually photographs, are also corner pocket mounted so that the mat can be easily opened and the item removed in original condition.
Click to expand...

tedh said:
I book 95%. The ones I don't are needlepoints and shadowboxes. How do you do it if you don't hinge them? How do you line up the subject on the mounting board if you don't?
Click to expand...

The mats that aren't booked are on common posters, prints, etc. The mats are ATG'd to the backing, no ATG touching the art ever.
 
I guess I just find it quicker to book them. Force of habit.
 
I do all mine across the top, but from what I've read here,
it's supposed to be along the longest side, whichever that is.
 
Ylva said:
Same with me, I book probably 98% of all jobs. Either with linen or with the framers white tape (most cases).

I think it saves me time hinging the art in the right place.
Click to expand...

I book almost everything also...unless it's dry mounted. Sometimes I think I "over do" things....but I guess it's better to error that way than to do a bad job.
 
We book everything that is not mounted, including our DIY work. We use Framer's Tape for DIY and all the less expensive package specials. We really hate ATG under mats and only with some mounted pictures or on jobs going out for exhibition without frames. The phrase "Pay it forward" to the next framer comes to mind with regard to ATG on mats. Who was it that wrote an article about this? David Lantrip?
 
I generally only book artwork that is matted but not being framed. The reality is that if it is being framed then it is highly unlikely that anyone will take it apart to examine the print. However if someone does, or if the piece is being reframed, the method I use to attach the mat to the backer is easily disassembled.

I use just a few dots of Frank's Fabric adhesive around the perimeter... about 4-5" apart. I also join multiple mats the same way.

Unlike ATG which usually requires destruction of the mat to remove from the backer or when taking multiple mats apart, the layers easily separate and are reusable when this method is employed.

I know this is contrary to what is considered best practice, but it works for me and any other framer that has to reframe something originally framed by me will have no problem separating the elements of the job and re-using them where desired.
 
elkhaircaddis said:
I book almost everything also...unless it's dry mounted. Sometimes I think I "over do" things....but I guess it's better to error that way than to do a bad job.
Click to expand...

SUSIE!!!!!! I have missed you on here! So, you are still framing then??????

Don't be a stranger.....
 
We don't 'book' any of our discount jobs.
We atg the matte package to the backing board on the others if it needs it AND if we can get the tape far enough from the art. We use acid free atg if warranted..
 
For Budget framing, I use just two short strip (maybe 1") along the top corners by the edges. Since it's budget, it's fast and easy, and not too difficult for the next framer to handle. Byputting it out on the edges, I figure the fletcher points will put enought pressure on it to prevent the ATG for failing. And NEVER put any ATG on the artwork.

On all other jobs, I book with self adhesive linen tape or gummed linen tape depending the situatuion.

Just about every single reframe job I do is like only 1 out of 10 are properly booked with some sort of tape, just about everything is ATG'ed on all 4 sides.
 
Someone please tell me the advantages of booking a digital printed 8x10 photo with 2" matte borders overlapping the photo 1/2" all around. My ears are perked.
 
Some folks apparently would sleep better at night if they did.

:icon21:
 
Ok someone please tell me what BOOKING means............... :icon9:

Are you saying........ you hinge or use pocket corners on the art.......
then GLUE or tape the matting to the backboard??? :nuts:
 
Nic... "Booking" refers to attaching the mat to the backer, generally on the longer side, with linen or other tape, irregardless of how the artwork is mounted to the backer.
 
Dave said:
Nic... "Booking" refers to attaching the mat to the backer, generally on the longer side, with linen or other tape, irregardless of how the artwork is mounted to the backer.
Click to expand...

Why? What's the advantage?

I've never done it. Dont you just cut the backing board and the mat exactly?
Seems like a lot less materials used and time. :shrug:
 
blackiris said:
Why? What's the advantage?

I've never done it. Dont you just cut the backing board and the mat exactly?
Seems like a lot less materials used and time. :shrug:
Click to expand...


Material use is the same, except for the tape used, and by hinging the top mat(s) to the back board, it is way easier to mount or hinge the artwork accurately, especially when the artwork is just a bit larger than the window.
 
The "proper" way to attach mats to the backing board is to book them. As I stated in an earlier post I rarely book the mats when framing prefering to adhere them with a few dots of Frank's Fabric Glue in order to precisely align the mat to the art. My method allows for easy removal and reuse of the mat if someone wants to inspect the artwork.

If there is a wide margin or "white space" around the art where small slipage isn't a factor, then it isn't necessary to attach the mat at all within a frame package.

Many print collectors and museums will book artwork to protect the work with matting and a backer without framing the work. Booking allows for both protection and easy inspection of the artwork. I do book when not framing the work for this purpose.
 
blackiris said:
Why? What's the advantage?

I've never done it. Dont you just cut the backing board and the mat exactly?
Seems like a lot less materials used and time. :shrug:
Click to expand...

The reason that I 'book' is to keep the mat and backing aligned while I am positioning the hinged art.

I put the hinges on the back of the art and then insert the art into the 'booked' mat/backing. I position the art, open the book and then attach the top of the hinges to the backing and close the book.

This is especially helpful if there are multiple mat openings.

EDIT: tedh types quicker than me.
 
I still don't understand..... wouldn't NOT doing it at all be better when it goes to the next framer?
And if it slips........ doesn't that just mean you didnt hinge it right?
 
Nic, this is just a way to keep the mat in position without attaching it to the backing.

We rarely book anything anymore. I just hinge the art to an oversized backing and then position the mats and trim out backing after the fact.
 
Booking, to me, sure seems like a lot of extra, unnecessary, busy work.

We prefer to hinge the artwork to the back of the mat. This insures that the art is held correctly in position with the mat opening. By hinging at the top, the artwork "hangs" in the frame package and is allowed to move freely, thus eliminating wrinkles. By attaching the hinge to the back of the mat, the adhesive on the acid free tape (if used) is on the same side as the mat, thus eliminating the need to "T" hinge in most cases. I have always thought that by attaching the mat to the backing board, you are securing two different types of materials, both with different expansion/contraction characteristics.

Been doing this for nearly 30 years with no problem. I know that somewhere along the line booking seems to have become the "gospel" but I'm not sure according to who.

And by the way, we do this for almost all framing, not just budget framing.

I say each to his own.
 
hangupsgallery said:
We prefer to hinge the artwork to the back of the mat.
Click to expand...

One of the reasons that I hinge to the backing is that I find it impossible to accurately hinge multiple items to the back of a mat.

Then I have a problem positioning the item if I can't see how it lines up in the mat window. I have done a lot of small stuff with very tight working dimensions (tickets, etc) where it needs to be positioned exactly in the mat window.

Also if you are hinging multiple items to the back they will be 'swinging in the wind' each time you turn the mat over. If you hinge to the backing, once it's there it won't move until you finally close the 'book' and put it in the frame.

Maybe I am missing something here but how to you position and attach something to the back of a mat when you can't see how it lines up.

Booking and hinging to the backing is far easier for me but I would like to hear one of you 'mat backers' :o tell me how you position and attach to the back, especially with tight dimensions.

BTW, I never use ATG for hinging so no applying ATG, positioning and dropping the mat on the item. Everything is 'T' hinged. (Some decorative art excluded).
 
From time to time we attach small photos to the back of the mat. All we do in that case it put a strip of J-lar on the back of the photo then lay the mat down on it. Next I turn the mat over and burnish the tape to the mat. Much much faster when you have 20 photos to place.
 
When I talk about booking, I'm talking about attaching the window mats to the back mat that holds the artwork.

In the attached photo you can see the linen hinging tape holding the window mats (top) to the bottom mat, where the artwork is attached via a 4 ply sink mat. All of the handwritten notes are for the benefit of the customer, so they can understand what I'm talking about. I have a similar example for all of the mounting types I do. The sink mat is my normal "standard" for watercolors.

sink mount 002.jpg

My last one (2, 4-ply antique white cotton rag mats, mounting mat, with linen tape booking and sink mount, no frame, no glass because the artist was shipping) was priced at $76.00 for a 20 x 21. I believe this is a great price to the artist for the materials and labor.

However these prices are high for some budget framing so that Is why I was interested in what you did for budget framing.

Thanks all for your comments.
 
Larry Peterson said:
Maybe I am missing something here but how to you position and attach something to the back of a mat when you can't see how it lines up.

Booking and hinging to the backing is far easier for me but I would like to hear one of you 'mat backers' :o tell me how you position and attach to the back, especially with tight dimensions.
Click to expand...

Put the mat over the piece...... before you hinge it down........ adjust till the piece is where you want it........... hold the piece with one hand/finger/whatver... take the mat off...... add your hinges or photo corners etc. Easy Peasy!! Sometimes even a light pencil mark on the backing at each corner. Its really not that hard. But than again...... I'm awesome. ;)
 
It is so interesting to read all this.

I was taught to book mats and lining up in opening is so much easier and so much quicker as I don't have to pay extra attention to line up the mat with the backboard as it is not going anywhere. I sometimes only have that 1/8 inch allowance, so the loose package, to me, would be hit or miss

I put a glass weight on the art; open the 'book' and hinge art in place.

Sure, you use a bit more in materials (piece of tape) but I still believe it saves time. For multiple openings, especially photos, I do sometimes hinge to the mat but don't think that it is faster.....
 
Ylva said:
It is so interesting to read all this.

I was taught to book mats and lining up in opening is so much easier and so much quicker as I don't have to pay extra attention to line up the mat with the backboard as it is not going anywhere. I sometimes only have that 1/8 inch allowance, so the loose package, to me, would be hit or miss

I put a glass weight on the art; open the 'book' and hinge art in place.

Sure, you use a bit more in materials (piece of tape) but I still believe it saves time. For multiple openings, especially photos, I do sometimes hinge to the mat but don't think that it is faster.....
Click to expand...


I actually learning about booking her on theG way back in ought3 by Ron and Hobbes3 (MIA since 2009). Here's that post.

http://thegrumble.com/showthread.php?17778-aligning-a-print

I consider this some of the best advice (don't let your head get any bigger Ron :beer:) I've ever gotten here.

Most of what I do is vintage and uses 'T' hinges or is encapsulated. Very few modern photos that could be attached with JLar or ATG. I thank all the 'mat backers' but I think I will continue to be a 'booker'
 
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