Opinions Wanted how do you attach shadowbox extenders?

Create a Post
YooperFramer

YooperFramer

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Posts
864
Loc
marquette michigan
Do you guys place a reaaaally long screw through the back?
or what?
 

Attachments

  • stack.jpg
    stack.jpg
    384.8 KB · Views: 108
Dowels usually but if it 's a small/light enough project (and I'm sure I'll get blasted here) we'll run a bead of wood glue in the inner lip and then staple from the inside to lock the sections together. It's not as strong as dowels, but always seems to work fine.
 
Artrageous said:
Staples, like you would use to stretch an oil painting onto bars, along the inside seam. Then cover with foam or mat or combination of the two.
Click to expand...

This will work and you can also use some glue at the joint with the staples.
I have used a Senco nail gun and with glue applied, I toenail from the back piece to the front piece on an angle.

Whatever side trim pieces that you use, Foam core, Foam core with fabric,etc. will cover the joint.
 
Artrageous said:
As well as support your choice of glazing.
Click to expand...
:thumbsup: Yes!

I have done this hundreds and hundreds and maybe thousands of times over the years.
I always think to myself "please, I hope they never break the glass".
If they do, gotta' start over from scratch with the side pieces.

Thank goodness I haven't had one come back with broken glass (so far :icon11:).
 
I can't tell you how many times I did all the build up around the glass only to realize I forgot to install the mat and had to take everything apart.

You never get the pieces to come off the side walls in good shape so you have to recut and reset each piece again.
 
Artrageous said:
I can't tell you how many times I did all the build up around the glass only to realize I forgot to install the mat and had to take everything apart.

You never get the pieces to come off the side walls in good shape so you have to recut and reset each piece again.
Click to expand...

That's why we get paid the Big Bucks! :icon11::icon9::shutup::cool::beer:
 
I'm working on one now and I plan to just hinge and latch the extension to the front section. On this one we need the additional depth to support installation of a LED light strip.
 
Follow up question

Thanks, you all have helped a great deal.

I have another question.

Do you fill the outside edges of the frames where they meet?
or
do you just leave the gap alone?
 
Re: Follow up question

YooperFramer said:
Thanks, you all have helped a great deal.

I have another question.

Do you fill the outside edges of the frames where they meet?
or
do you just leave the gap alone?
Click to expand...

Best leave it alone. It's a feature of the frame. You'll still see it even if you try to fill it.

If you are painting the box (as opposed to varnish/wax), then you could fill it, but from exp you wouldn't believe the amount of filling and sanding you have to do to make it dissppear completely.
 
pwalters said:
Dowels usually but if it 's a small/light enough project (and I'm sure I'll get blasted here) we'll run a bead of wood glue in the inner lip and then staple from the inside to lock the sections together. It's not as strong as dowels, but always seems to work fine.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with that. In framing, your problem solving skills are your greatest asset, IMO. As long as your solution is structurally sound, and enduring, it's fine. There's more than one solution to most of the problems that framers face on a regular basis. We've all got our techniques that we value.
 
I glue extenders and pin them in place will a pneumatic nailer of an appropriate size and gauge, or use a headless pinner if more appropriate.

I have various pneumatic brad nailers, staplers and a headless pinner to chose from and I take care to put the fixings where I can easily hide them. No one will ever see the nail positions when the back has been sealed and the result is a structurally secure and reliable joint.

I don't bother filling, or painting over the joint. I show the customer a sample of what it is gonna look like, so that they know what they are getting. If they say O.K., that's what they get! Easy!
 
First on the latest question about filling the joint, if you run both the upper and lower piece edges across a jointer the joints will be minimal. Now to the original question, another method could be to use blind dowells and follow up winth the pneumatic nailer.

Not your average framer said:
I glue extenders and pin them in place will a pneumatic nailer of an appropriate size and gauge, or use a headless pinner if more appropriate.

I have various pneumatic brad nailers, staplers and a headless pinner to chose from and I take care to put the fixings where I can easily hide them. No one will ever see the nail positions when the back has been sealed and the result is a structurally secure and reliable joint.

I don't bother filling, or painting over the joint. I show the customer a sample of what it is gonna look like, so that they know what they are getting. If they say O.K., that's what they get! Easy!
Click to expand...
 
Create a Post
Back
Top