Hot Press dry mount press gasket loose in back, how to reach back to readhere

[akthoma]

We have a Hot Press vacuum dry mount press, and the gasket has become loose. In the past we've used silicone sealant underneath the gasket to readhere the gasket to the metal frame. There is a small portion in the back of the press that is loose, but I can't really reach back and lift up the gasket enough to get the silicone sealant underneath because the lid is in the way (the lid attaches in the back).

Any ideas on how to get the silicone sealant back underneath the gasket?

 

[wpfay]

You may be able to loosen the hinges and jack the back edge of the lid up enough to access the trouble spot.
Do you have an owner's manual that might give some direction in doing this?

https://www.thegrumble.com/data/manuals/Drytac_HGP220_HGP360_HGP560_Hot_Press_Manual.pdf

(We have a manuals library you can access through the "Resources" button ^ up there.)
If memory serves, those machines are incredibly heavy. You may need something like grand piano jacks to move it around enough to get to the back in the first place.

 

[Jim Miller]

I once had to clean gobs of dry mounting adhesive residue off the inside of a vacuum press lid. That was a D&K/Bienfang/Seal press, and the floor of it was sturdy enough that I could lie down on my back inside the press to reach all areas of the surface. If your press does not have a rigid bottom, maybe you could slide a sheet of plywood under the bladder to prevent stretching it too much. Oh, and make sure there is nothing sharp on your clothing - like a belt buckle, for example.

 

[akthoma]

You may be able to loosen the hinges and jack the back edge of the lid up enough to access the trouble spot.
Do you have an owner's manual that might give some direction in doing this?

https://www.thegrumble.com/data/manuals/Drytac_HGP220_HGP360_HGP560_Hot_Press_Manual.pdf

(We have a manuals library you can access through the "Resources" button ^ up there.)
If memory serves, those machines are incredibly heavy. You may need something like grand piano jacks to move it around enough to get to the back in the first place.

Thank you for the manual link. Unfortunately, I am not handy at all and am in doubt of my being able to loosen the hinges and get everything back in order correctly. I did my best to just put sealant on the edge of the gasket and am hoping that's enough to help.

You're right, I tried to move the press to get behind it to see if I could somehow apply sealant to the back and it was so heavy I could barely scooch it more than a few nudges. There's no way I can fully move it.

Worst case scenario, I guess we can hire someone to undo the lid if the sealant on the side of the gasket doesn't end up working. I'll test it tomorrow after it has set.

 

[akthoma]

I once had to clean gobs of dry mounting adhesive residue off the inside of a vacuum press lid. That was a D&K/Bienfang/Seal press, and the floor of it was sturdy enough that I could lie down on my back inside the press to reach all areas of the surface. If your press does not have a rigid bottom, maybe you could slide a sheet of plywood under the bladder to prevent stretching it too much. Oh, and make sure there is nothing sharp on your clothing - like a belt buckle, for example.

Oh wow, I didn't know that was even possible. I feel like I would for sure stretch out the bladder too much if I tried that, but I will keep in mind finding something rigid to lie on and rest my elbows one while I try and move the gasket if just putting sealant on the edge of the gasket doesn't help enough. And what a horrible job for you to clear out dry mount adhesive residue! That stuff is sooo sticky and nasty.

 

[neilframer]

I have worked on a press like that in the past.
It has a lid that has 2 lites of heavy glass.
We needed to replace the temp sensor that is between the 2 lites of glass.

It took 4 of us to release the struts and flip the lid back to remove the glass from the lid.
We used both 4' x 8' work tables to do this.
We replaced the temp sensor and reassembled the lid and it worked.

You can get at the back if you release the struts but the lid is very heavy and you must support it or tie it in the upright position with a cable if you release the struts.
Also the struts have metal clips that lock them on the ball connectors.
Be careful if you remove those to keep them and install them when you reconnect the struts.
It looks like the HGP 360 that I worked on.

 

[akthoma]

I have worked on a press like that in the past.
It has a lid that has 2 lites of heavy glass.
We needed to replace the temp sensor that is between the 2 lites of glass.

It took 4 of us to release the struts and flip the lid back to remove the glass from the lid.
We used both 4' x 8' work tables to do this.
We replaced the temp sensor and reassembled the lid and it worked.

You can get at the back if you release the struts but the lid is very heavy and you must support it or tie it in the upright position with a cable if you release the struts.
Also the struts have metal clips that lock them on the ball connectors.
Be careful if you remove those to keep them and install them when you reconnect the struts.
It looks like the HGP 360 that I worked on.
View attachment 50118

Well after all of that, I realized this morning that even after creating the seal (and hoping that what I did towards the back would work), I would still hear a hissing sound from the machine sounding like there was air escaping. In the back of the machine I saw two connections that looked somewhat loose, so I held those in towards the machine, and then it finally created a vacuum!

So now I know the true problem, but I don't know how to tighten the connections. Would you happen to know how to? Do I need a special tool? I'm so not handy at all.

 

[James Murray Scott]

Those two connections are where the leads goes into the press for the heating element, the temperature sensor and the power switches for the press and the pump. They should not need any adjustments at all.

Air should not be coming from those connections as they are below the diaphragm. If there is then maybe there is a leak in the lines connecting to the underside of diaphragm or a leak in the diaphragm itself.

The vacuum lines will enter the back of the lower frame of the press via 90 degree press fittings which lead to the vacuum gauge and then split off to the back corner of the diaphragm. Sometimes those connections wear out. If so pull them out, squarely trim off 1/2 and inch and reconnect. There should be plenty of slack hose available. If not pretty well any hardware store will carry vacuum line. Take a sample to make sure you get the right diameter line.

To adjust the hinges you loosen the bottom two screws with hex keys. Below each hinge there is a bolt that sticks out of the bottom of the frame. Depending upon access you can use either a hex key or a set of pliers to adjust the hinge(s). The process is pretty straight forward...get three strips of release paper about two inches wide by about a foot long. Lay them along the back across the bead. Close the lid and adjust the hinges so the strips no longer can be slid in and out of the press without binding. Take the strips out, tighten the hinges, latch the front and test. You may have to take a few stabs at this.

Another option is to loosen the hinges. Close the lid, latch the front, turn on the pump and adjust the hinges until the press catches and pulls a vacuum. Then tighten the hinges and test again.

Often if part of the bead has come loose the adhesive is starting to fail. The entire bead may have to be replaced. It's a job but more time consuming then anything, and you will want help to open up the lid for better accesss. If you have to get a small bit of adhesive under the bead grab two putty knives. One to hold the gap slightly open while the other sneaks in a bit of adhesive.

It's a smart practice to have a carrier board inside you press when working with soft material like foam-board, card, etc. This will add years to the life of the diaphragm.

 

[akthoma]

Those two connections are where the leads goes into the press for the heating element, the temperature sensor and the power switches for the press and the pump. They should not need any adjustments at all.

Air should not be coming from those connections as they are below the diaphragm. If there is then maybe there is a leak in the lines connecting to the underside of diaphragm or a leak in the diaphragm itself.

The vacuum lines will enter the back of the lower frame of the press via 90 degree press fittings which lead to the vacuum gauge and then split off to the back corner of the diaphragm. Sometimes those connections wear out. If so pull them out, squarely trim off 1/2 and inch and reconnect. There should be plenty of slack hose available. If not pretty well any hardware store will carry vacuum line. Take a sample to make sure you get the right diameter line.

To adjust the hinges you loosen the bottom two screws with hex keys. Below each hinge there is a bolt that sticks out of the bottom of the frame. Depending upon access you can use either a hex key or a set of pliers to adjust the hinge(s). The process is pretty straight forward...get three strips of release paper about two inches wide by about a foot long. Lay them along the back across the bead. Close the lid and adjust the hinges so the strips no longer can be slid in and out of the press without binding. Take the strips out, tighten the hinges, latch the front and test. You may have to take a few stabs at this.

Another option is to loosen the hinges. Close the lid, latch the front, turn on the pump and adjust the hinges until the press catches and pulls a vacuum. Then tighten the hinges and test again.

Often if part of the bead has come loose the adhesive is starting to fail. The entire bead may have to be replaced. It's a job but more time consuming then anything, and you will want help to open up the lid for better accesss. If you have to get a small bit of adhesive under the bead grab two putty knives. One to hold the gap slightly open while the other sneaks in a bit of adhesive.

It's a smart practice to have a carrier board inside you press when working with soft material like foam-board, card, etc. This will add years to the life of the diaphragm.

I appreciate your detailed response. So if I did the test where I cover the hole in the back and it immediately creates a vacuum, would that mean that the diaphragm should be be free of any leaks and that it must be an issue with one of the hoses?

Do you know what type of service person may be able to work on this? An electrician? I'm not skilled at all this area, so I would feel better having a professional work on it.

Also, by bead, do you mean the rubber gasket type thing that goes around the perimeter? Are those able to be purchased anywhere? I think we are still OK with the current one, but I do see an area that looks like it may be breaking down.

Also, what is a carrier board? Sorry, I'm obviously not an expert at this at all. Our current set up is on the top of the diaphragm is the foam blanket, then release paper, then we put the material (usually foam board) on top of the release paper and then put a release board on top of that. So are you saying I need some kind of board directly on top of the diaphragm? And if so, where could I purchase one?

Thank you for all of your help.

 

[James Murray Scott]

I appreciate your detailed response. So if I did the test where I cover the hole in the back and it immediately creates a vacuum, would that mean that the diaphragm should be be free of any leaks and that it must be an issue with one of the hoses?

Do you know what type of service person may be able to work on this? An electrician? I'm not skilled at all this area, so I would feel better having a professional work on it.

Also, by bead, do you mean the rubber gasket type thing that goes around the perimeter? Are those able to be purchased anywhere? I think we are still OK with the current one, but I do see an area that looks like it may be breaking down.

Also, what is a carrier board? Sorry, I'm obviously not an expert at this at all. Our current set up is on the top of the diaphragm is the foam blanket, then release paper, then we put the material (usually foam board) on top of the release paper and then put a release board on top of that. So are you saying I need some kind of board directly on top of the diaphragm? And if so, where could I purchase one?

Thank you for all of your help.

If you cover the hole and the pump immediately draws a vacuum then you know the pump and the lines are probably in good shape.

If the press turns on and off, the pump works and the press heats up then an electrician is not necessary.

When I say 'bead' I am referring to the rubber gasket.

When I say 'carrier board' I am referring to a flat sheet of 1/8" hardboard that we place directly on top of the diaphragm. We then use release paper between the carrier and the materials that we are pressing, whether it be mounting to foam board or card stock or simply coating with laminate and/or adhesive. If we are occasionally working with hard substrates such as mdf we remove the carrier as the vacuum is strong enough to force the carrier around the corners of the mdf.

You can get hardboard at any lumber yard or building centre. Just have it cut down a few inches smaller than the diaphragm and lop off the corner so it doesn't block the vacuum hole. You could always bring a piece back to the shop, score it with a utility knife a few times on both faces and snap off the extra. Sand it to get rid of any sharp edges and then clean it of any dust before placing it in your press.

 

[James Murray Scott]

The bead is the same stuff you find at a building centre in the window and door section.

 

[akthoma]

If you cover the hole and the pump immediately draws a vacuum then you know the pump and the lines are probably in good shape.

If the press turns on and off, the pump works and the press heats up then an electrician is not necessary.

When I say 'bead' I am referring to the rubber gasket.

When I say 'carrier board' I am referring to a flat sheet of 1/8" hardboard that we place directly on top of the diaphragm. We then use release paper between the carrier and the materials that we are pressing, whether it be mounting to foam board or card stock or simply coating with laminate and/or adhesive. If we are occasionally working with hard substrates such as mdf we remove the carrier as the vacuum is strong enough to force the carrier around the corners of the mdf.

You can get hardboard at any lumber yard or building centre. Just have it cut down a few inches smaller than the diaphragm and lop off the corner so it doesn't block the vacuum hole. You could always bring a piece back to the shop, score it with a utility knife a few times on both faces and snap off the extra. Sand it to get rid of any sharp edges and then clean it of any dust before placing it in your press.

Thank you so much. I really appreciate all of your help and advice. This is very helpful for troubleshooting.

I was able to get a vacuum each time I tried today, though the first time took a good 3 minutes. I did try and reseal the gasket/bead, so maybe that is the main issue. I need to figure out a good way to get the silicone sealant under the gasket/bead in the back where the lid meets the bottom of the press. It's too hard for me to try and lift the bead while also trying to squeeze the silicone sealant underneath. I can't get the gasket up enough nor squeeze the sealant out successfully. The best I've been able to do is squeeze the sealant on the edge of the gasket. Hopefully that holds up.

Oh wait, I just reread your reply about the putty knife for lifting up the gasket. That's a good idea that I will try if the seal that I put just at the edge of the gasket doesn't look like it's holding.