hinging help

[silent pic]

i just got two 4'x5' watercolor abstracts. they are on the thickest watercolor color paper i have ever felt. they are heavy. my client wants them floated to expose the edges. what do you all reccommend to mount these with and on what? only conservation materials. i am having a hard time finding a big enough material. and......... i need to space the plexi off the piece. any suggestions for spacers. i was looking at using 1/4" clear arlospacers. thanks
beth

 

[JOHNG]

Hi I had the same problem with some tapa cloth a year or so ago look it up in the search menu is should be of some help

 

[Framing Goddess]

We have ordered extra huge oversize rag (or maybe consv. board) from Small Corp. It needed to be trucked in and the shipping was quite reasonable. I think they can quote it ahead of time. I think we had to buy 10 sheets also. We only needed two for that particular job, but we have since sold a few to other local shops.
The best thing I ever learned from Paul MacFarland, was to use screen door bead for spacers. Not the "reeded" type, but the flat on one side, "bull-nosed" on the other type. It is about 3/4" deep (I love the look) and the perfect width (just under 3/16".)1/4" deep is not enough in my opinion. You can paint it to match either the frame or the backing behind the artwork. We either glue or supersticky ATG it to the frame with the curved side facing the frame. I buy it 100's of feet at a time from Home Depot or someplace comparable. Also, it works best if you can cut it (miter) on a chopper. A razor blade ain't gonna do it... If you would like me to draw a picture of how we put it in a frame e-mail me and I can send a pic to you. (edie.artetc@juno.com)
Also use LOTS o'hinges on that puppy. (not filmoplast, either

) We use a fc backing behind the rag board on which the art is floated and the two are bonded together. (dry mounted or SS ATG'd) If you don't bond them, the rag board with the heavy wc paper hinged to it will "flop" forward, especially when you use spacers that deep.
And even if you use a big mama frame, be prepared to use a strainer frame inside, as
well. We drill holes in the strainer frame at an angle for screws to attach it to the inside of the frame. (I can send you a pic of this as well)
And we will also sometimes use metal corner plates just as insurance to hold the strainer in the frame. And we put the hanging hardware on the strainer frame. D-rings (NO WIRE ALLOWED!)
Also, try not to get involved in a "rush" situation on a piece this size. Unless you're REALLY LUCKY...
The Goddess has learned the hard way not to tempt fate in this way.
Good luck!
(ps- if you e-mail me, I won't get it until Monday-- I am on a computer-free junket [how do ya like that one MM???] this weekend.)

 

[Orton]

Hi silent pic

It's useless for me to suggest sources for oversize board etc.because availability is quite a different issue where I live.

However, some general suggestions. Consider stiffening the mount board, whatever you decide to use, with 2 or more sheets of coroplast turned at 90 degress so that their axes run perpendicular to each other. Once glued to the mount board, a reasonably rigid support can be made. Use more coroplast if more stiffening is required. Coroplast is strong, light, and is of c-p quality.

Use "Good Glue" or similar to adhere the coroplast sheets together and to the mount board. Do not rely solely on ATG. Bond under weight being careful not to crush the "tubes" in the coroplast.

Since you did not stipulate the art's orientation I will again make only some general suggestions. The w/c paper is probably 300# but will accept hinges. Make your hinges extra-oversize so that there will be sufficient area for the hinge adhesive to spread the load. Use a generous coating of wheat starch or a mixture of wheat starch and methyl cellulose - in this case, pure m-c may not be strong enough to anchor the hinges - and dry under weight. Sekishu or awara mulberry paper will probably work ok. Awara may possibly be a little stronger. Give it a pull test in your hands before mounting it though, and make sure you have water cut it parallel to its grain and not across the grain. In this case, wider hinges are better than narrow hinges.

Given the size of the art, I do not think that 1/4" space will be sufficient to allow for cockling. I suggest 3/4" or better. The bottom will tend to curl towards the glass more so than the top or middle.

Use shadow-box technique to build your spacer mechanism, lining with B8644 Ebony (black) or similar, or with a complimentary colour to the mountboard. If you use raw wood to create the space, seal it first, two coats minimum, with waterborne polyurethane, leaving three to four days for drying before assembly. Camger brand is recommended.

For strength, choose a wide moulding if possible, and install corner gussets, glued and screwed to the corners.

Use extra-thick bumpons to create more space between the art and the wall. On occasion, I have resorted to slices of wine bottle cork to facilitate this measure.

Give extra thought to the hanging system considering that it is important to distribute the weight over the whole frame.

Good luck

Orton