Searching For Hinge Bumps

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seido

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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A couple of months ago I saw a thread about getting rid of the "bumps" that might appear when hinging float mounted art printed certain kinds of paper.

It seems to be a result of the water/glue in the hinge contracting and deforming the paper on the front surface as it dries, creating a raised "bump".

I can't find the thread...anyone know where I can look or have the solution?

Joel
 
If I'm not mistaken I believe the article was in the PFM magizine a month or two ago. I don't have access to my back issues at this time or I would look for it. I can't remember reading any recent treads concerning the hinge rinkle. Joe
 
Hinges that are applie to reactive paper, with too much moisture, can cause the paper to swell and deform. The safest course of action is prevention, of this situation, which can be done by limiting moistue, thorough attachment of only the edge fibers (feathers) of the hinge tissue and through hand drying of the hinge with desiccated blotter that has been faced with supun bond, to prevent adhesion, to the paste.
Once the paper is deformed, it should only be flattened by a trained paper conservator. The fact that the paper deformed is evidence that it is reactive and addition of moisture or solvent is likely to lead to tide line formation, over time. Attempts to press the deformations out may lead to embossing or crease formation.


Hugh
 
Pre-empted by Hugh.

This is probably one of the largest arguments for the prodigious use of dryer papers. (blotters).

Dryer papers should be kept in a sealed plastic bag, and I use a very over-sized bag so I can fold it over several times..... I just don't trust zip lock. Another way is after baking/drying the papers lay little stacks between sheets of baggies and iron or heat seal to form little "Blotter paper raviolis"

Once you use the papers, throw in a box and save. When you start to get low of raviolis, and have some time one evening, lay out on cookie trays and bake in over 200 degrees for about 30 minutes or "crisp". (Micro works somewhat in a pinch... mic on high for about 3 minutes, let rest for a couple and zap again for 2 minutes... the blotters should not be stacked... but loosely scattered about the Microwave tray/turntable.

The first "cooking" they will feel hot and damp..... the second they should feel hot and dry... or better just warm and dry. The less moisture, the less molecules to agitate so less heating.
 
Here is a link to the FrameTek web article on hinging with wheat starch paste: http://www.frametek.com/HTML/Articles/Wheat_Starch_Hinging.html

When I was demonstrating our now extinct "Nori" wheat starch packets at the trade shows I just used folded up paper towels for blotters. No pre-drying, no baggies, no pelon sheets, just paper towels directly against the hinge. They never stuck to the hinges. The biggest trick is not to put very much pressure when you're applying the hinge to the art. Think of the wet hinge as a wet sponge. Shove on it and it will wet the art. Pucker! I used suede bags filled with bird shot for weights. It normally takes only 15-20 minutes to dry to get 5-7 lbs shear strength from a hinge measuring 3/4 wide with about 1/4 inch engagement o the art. Medium weight Shekishu paper.
 
Good advice above, of course.

Practice is advised, as proper hinging requires some skill. I suggest practicing your hinging techniques on the cheapest copier paper you can find. With any amount of moisture, it puckers like a granny at Christmas. If you can perfectly hinge that kind of paper, you can hinge anything.
 
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